Thanks!
Michael Mullis
SC
Contact Dan Hatch. I don't think the length of the rods is real important. I believe they are only there to keep the tool from rotating. Two others I know of that have that tool are Steve Coniff, and Kim Dobbins.
Jim Rodell Sr. has one also.
Keith
center to center is 2 & 1/8" - rod diameter is 3/8" x 4 & 3/8" in length.
Thanks Steve
Michael: when you get it done, would you post pics of it and a description of the tool, parts, and build info, on the "Homemade Model T Tools #2" thread. It looks like it will be a nice tool. Thanks .....
Would somebody post a picture of an original Steven's front axle tool?
Here you go, Jack.
There's one on ebay right now with some pics (I have no connection to the auction).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MODEL-T-FORD-STEVENS-FRONT-AXLE-REPAIR-TOOL-EXTREEMLY-RA RE-DONT-MISS-THIS-ONE-/191063887864?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash= item2c7c4b8ff8&vxp=mtr
Thanks Steve, Just wanted to be sure what we were talking about.
I'll drop Dan a note for you.
Whats this tool used for? Aliment?
You bet, fellas !
will: for repairing stripped threads in the lower yoke and installing a tapered insert in the top yoke.
Steve,
Can you post some more photos of the box? Some details of the joints, how the bottom is attached and of the top? I have the tool and would like to duplicate the box for it.
Thanks,
Dave S.
Sorry Dave - that photo was one that I captured off the internet - I am also without the box for my set ;>(
Doesn't appear to be very complicated but being my wife doesn't like me to play with wood cutting power tools (hard to hold onto wrenches with no fingers), I have yet attempted to build one - would be willing to pay for a copy though.
Here are a few photos of the Stevens Tool in use and also one that I built before I found my own fixture. I purchased the tooling and inserts from Dan Hatch.
More photos of the Stevens Reamer and of a "Farmer Fix" for a loose spindle bolt. As you see from the photos the Stevens repair can be made with the axle still on the car.
I think the one on ebay for sale is Bob's Antique Auto Parts.
How much would it cost to have one of these made? and where to get the proper implements to go with?
I make the cutting tools for these and the inserts. Looked into making the frames, but would have to make at least 30 and only had 5 people say they were interested. PM me for the tooling. Thanks, Dan.
Robb: what is the purpose of installing the small allen head set screw in the yoke ?
I think it is for the farmer fix he mentioned in the caption.
Got it - thanks Chris !
The allen head set screw would let you lock whatever insert into place without having to use Loctite or tough to remove interference fit.
If you use the Stevens insert, you will not need the Loctite or the set screw. Dan
I would really like to find one of these fixtures.
Stephen
Here is anoother Stevens reaming fixture in the metal box, Stevens spindle bushing refacer and the Stevens front axle refacer.
Thanks for the photos of your facing set Kim - now I know what that odd shaped Stevens wrench I have is for - now I just have to find the rest of it. Couldn't find it in my Stevens Tool catalog
Steve, the axle facer belongs to Don Lang, he loaned it to me to copy. It not a hard job, but takes a lot of time. PM me with your address and I'll sent you a copy of the supplement to the Stevens catalog that has it.
Thanks !
I have repaired two axles with helicoils and I use a file to face the bushings to length. It would be nice to acquire the special tools available in the 20's and 30's but generally you can use your ingenuity and modern tools to make your repairs.
Ted, my axle surfaces were quite wallowed out and uneven. I filed them and they look good.
Now I am hand facing the bronze spindle bushings and something is not quite true. When turning the spindle there is a gap showing light that changes places, indicating that the spindle bushing or the axle surface (or both) is not level.
I don't have the surfacing tool for the bushings or the axle and my ingenuity is not making the grade. Do you have any tips on how to make sure the axle faces are truly flat and level?