The other thread was getting long so Ill start a new one. Had good responce on the last one so keep them coming .. This is my Model T differental stand. It is made similar to the KR Wilson one I never could afford. It is made from a modern disc brake rotor. I think it was from a 70s 80s vintage Ford Fairmont or Mercury Zepher. Its been a long time ago so not sure what the brake rotor was from. The notch in the front allows easy insertion of the axles and also allows for a place to reach the bottom nuts with a wrench when needed. Works very well. and was cheap ....

In the last thread someone showed a clutch spring compressor made from an old wheel hub flange. Someone suggested the flange could also be used to make a transmission lift tool. So I had to make one. Its too cold to do much more anywany. So now I have a good useable tool that will outlast me. Took a little over 1 hour to make.

Real smart people here!!
I wish I had seen this before I paid the $130.00 for the differential stand.

Nice stuff, Donnie !

bump

If you have ever tried to move a shop crane over anything other than smooth cement you may like this
otherwise Steve Jelf may be the only fan;)> here is the base that goes into any 2 inch receiver

and the ram

This was designed for a pick-up I no longer own but when I go somewhere and forget to take it off the tail sniffers back way off!

Forgot to mention I made 3 booms for it standard
7 foot & for that really long reach 9 foot.

GR I like it. Could you load a model T engine in the back of the truck it is hooked to. If it will lift high enough and swivel far enough around. I can see it being a usefull tool to load your own truck with...

Yes I loaded many a cheby 350's in the back of a 2003 chevy pick-up until someone talking on a cell phone turned left in front of me and totaled the truck. It will swivel 360 degrees and with the 8 ton ram and the 7 foot boom I loadea a complete ford 460 and trans from a motorhome.

Don't have any pictures to post but G.R.Cheshire's post and photos reminded me of something I did several years ago that seemed like a good idea. I bolted a really big "herk'n" vise to a 4 ft. length of tubular steel and I carry it in with tools in back of my one-ton crew-cab pickup. Have only used it a few times when away from my little shop, however, lacking a really heavy-duty bench, a hitch receiver on a heavy pickup is a great place to temporarily mount a big vise on the rare occasions when I need one. Used it once on a "rescue mission" to put a new U-joint (press-fit U-joint needle bearings) in a friend's driveshaft out where he "broke down". Also have a flat steel plate with a flange underneath so I can clamp it in the vise and have a temporary but solid work surface when I need one. I would think this would be a good idea for a "vulture truck" out on a club tour or something.

Forgot to say,....thought my vise idea was pretty clever, but I think G.R.'s idea is even better!

Just in case any one gets the urge to make their own

hummm this don't look as clean as my scanned image ...back to the drawing board!

This is better.
Materials & Instructions, if you are so inclined do this at your own risk because I can't control your skill level.
(Part A) 8" square 1/4" plate rounded corners so if you bump your knee you don't need stitches.
(Part B) 12" receiver extension welded to bottom of Part A This way you can pull a trailer and load both your truck and trailer (I don't do electrical so make your own wiring extension as needed).
(Part C) 2 3/8" - 16 X 1.5" bolts,2 3/8" - 16 nuts, 2 pieces 3/8 rod 3" long. 2 /16 holes are drilled in the top tube of the Base 90 degrees apart and in between the gussets part F the 2 nuts are welded over these holes. the 2 3/8" rods are welded 90 degrees to the bolt head and make the set screws that stop the crane from turning when you don't want it to!
(Part D) 3" I.D. Pipe 10" long (inside diameter may need to be machined for proper fit with part H should have enough clearance to slide in easily )
(Part E) 3.5" Very thick walled pipe 4" long welded to the top of part D and around the upper and lower circumference this prevents the top of part D from Wallowing out!
(Part F) 4 each Gussets are made from 1/4" X 2" flat-bar 9 " high and straight angle from bottom across to top the "notch" is to clear part E the gussets are welded to part A,D,& E at 90 degrees apart

(Part H) 3" O.D. pipe (Turret) 11" tall
(Part G) 2 3" pipe flanges one is circumference welded to the top of part H the other is welded to the bottom of your donor shop crane (Mine was found on side of road left for dead).
Please excuse my dining room table drafting but remember I made mine without plans and these plans incorporate some improvements over mine.
If you build it parts will come!

Thanks GR. When it warms up, Im going to build something similar. Im just getting too old to pick up model T engines and throw them in the back of the truck anymore.

ronco hone-a-matic

motor adapter stand I made couple years ago

When checking main brg's alone it is hard to hold the nut's on main bolt's,so I welded a ear on nut for checking main clearance, when you get right clearance then put org. nuts back,make's it a lot easier