I have a couple of questions about the gas tank on the 1926 Roadster. Where do I put the gas? I am missing a cap that goes over the pen-hole (the tin was over the hole), but I understand the other hole is the over flow?
Second question, is the dent on the bottom of the gas tank factory?
Thanks for any input!!
You have a problem. The bottom of the original gas cap has fallen down and is plugging the inlet of the tank.The very tiny hole you see is /was a vent hole. The original caps had that piece to prevent sloshing as while car was running, A small pick may pry it out ,or you may have to put a metal screw in it to pry it out. Lang's carry a replacement of the original.
The big hole in the middle is where the gas goes in and a external threaded cap, screws into the internal threads in the tank neck. I can't tell if there is anything in the large hole, or not. If so, it isn't factory and should not be sealed to prevent gas from being added. Yes, every cowl mounted tank that I have seen has the clearance dent.
My 26 Roadster is wide open where your pin hole is. That is where the gas goes in. Look close and see if that is threaded in some way. Can't help with the dent, I'll have to go look at my tank. PK
I have had three 26 tanks are made with that “dent”. From what I can tell Ford made the tank that way.
Thanks guys!! I thought I was going crazy, I did not think that would be the bottom of the gas cap. Now that makes since.
I figured that is the way the tank came, but was not sure. (MAC's does not sale the tanks anymore so I was having a hard time trying to find a photo)
Thanks guys, I am sure I will be back with more questions and I continue looking through the car.
The "dent" on the bottom provides clearance for your toe when you push on the brake.
The dent is in my '26 gas tank to clear the steering column. It's factory. The overflow pipe goes on the passenger side and a replacement pipe can be obtained from any of the vendors.
I would recommend flushing and sealing the tank with the products from the vendors or an auto store. It has worked for me.
Hope this helps.
Hi Andrew, welcome to the forum. Your other question about the dent in the tank above the brake pedal is indeed "factory" !! It is designed to clear the toes on big footed folks like me that wear size 13's. You may want to consider taking the tank out of the car to get the recessed cap out of it. If you drop filings from drilling the cap, you would need to get them out before refilling. Sloshing the tank will be easier out of car plus there may be other contaminates that also need to be removed. The tanks come out easy, but are more difficult to re-install without assistance. Refer to the Ford Repair manual to tank removal and installation steps. Hope that helps. W
Can you lift the bottom of the cap out with a magnet?
The cap is most likely zinc and a magnet will not work. Maybe just break it and fish out the pieces.
Or, maybe a small hole or two and try to screw it out.
I agree with Jack. If the disk is loose enough, bend a little hook on a piece of wire and put the hook in the little vent hole to pull it out. If it's stuck, turn a sheet metal screw into the vent hole and pull that.
Here are several attachments to familiarize you with your 1926 cowl tank. One shows the levels in inches and gallons at each inch for making a gas level gauge out of a paint stirring stick. Another shows the interior of the tank and the location of the baffle, which minimizes sloshing on rough roads and the last shows the tank installed and where the "dent" goes during proper installation. I assume you are new to the hobby. Welcome and enjoy. Jim Patrick
As Jim Thode said, the dent is to allow clearance for your toe while engaging the right most pedal (the brake) while driving. The left edge of the tank stops to the right of the steering column and does not enter the space over the steering column. Jim Patrick
Does the column have to be out to remove the tank?
Thanks again for your input guys! Yes I am new to the forum and look forward to your input throughout this project I am working on. I am a Graduate student at Texas Tech University. I am doing what is called Museum Practicum at the Museum of Texas Tech University, evaluating the 1926 Model T Runabout.
It was originally donated to the museum in 1970 and I think it was on display for about 10 years. And been put in storage ever since. After spending the past month with it, I can tell you it was not put up clean and needs some work.
Where does the over flow drain to? Looks like it goes onto the floor.
Andrew that sounds like a cool job! Do you get to just order parts as you need them?!? "Hey professor, you know this looks really bad. Probably just going to have to send the whole engine to J&M Machine and get 'the works'."
Kep: The overflow drains to the ground. The gas cap baffle plate may be steel and a magnet may work to remove it. If not a wire or screw as suggested above should work. I have seen zinc and steel baffle plates. It has just fell out of the screw in part of the gas cap. They are useally slightly cup shaped and you should be able to reset it in your outer screw in part of the cap if you have it. Just put it back in the cap and hit the baffle in the center with a hammer to flatten it out some. They just hold by friction, similar to a water jacket freeze plug. There are no reproductions of the 26 27 tanks being made. Charlie: The steering column does not have to be removed. You useally will need to remove the bottom steering column clamp. The tank is a tight fit coming out. It helps to be able to flex the bottom of the dash some as it comes out. The tank seems to rub, hang, scrape, wedge, tear, on every #$%#@$ thing on the way out, but they do come out. You must also remove the two mounting straps completely out of the car. They can also sometimes be a &*&%^% to get unhooked. Kep: Welcome to the world of Model Ts ...
Hey Seth, it is more complicated then that. I am looking over the car, almost part by part, determining if the museum needs to order new parts or conserve the parts. At the end of the project will be a 15 page research paper listing what needs to be done to be able to display the Model T. Cool thing is I am getting college credit!
Here's a pic of my office.
Hey Andrew, how's about taking the covers off those other artifacts in "your" office and snapping a few more pics ??? Purty Kewl stuff !! W
It's a little hard to see but the overflow goes through the tube that passes through the tank and through the hole in the right baffle (see cutaway photo) then goes out through the tube that attaches to the fitting between the shutoff valve and the firewall. The metal 1/2" overflow drain tube runs down the firewall and attaches to the firewall with a U-clamp. Jim Patrick
YAY Andrew........one less "youngster" NOT involved in the hobby.......
I'm thinking the dent in the tank is there to give room for mounting right hand steering column.
You might try a stiff wire with a hook and see if you can yank it out, perhaps put in a screw and yank on that.
George. Not only is that not on the money, it's not in the ballpark, but thanks for your opinion. It never hurts to brainstorm. Respectfully. Jim Patrick
Georges answer made me think. (a very dangerous thing) Since the "dent" is there for "toe clearance" on left hand drive cars, do the right hand drive cars have the dent on the other end of the tank for their big toe clearance, and use a special tank. Also, is the gas tank moved to the left side of the cowl area on the RHD cars. Or do Canadian and Aussie Folks just have smaller toes. I would think if the tank is moved on RHD cars,the wiring harness and hole in cowl would also need moved. (I told you thinking was a dangerous thing)
As a static display, that T looks pretty darn good. Getting it running may be a different can of worms.
I have several 26-7 tanks and have found several variations among them. The big depression is on all of the tanks and it's for toe clearance as stated above. On some tanks, there is a smaller depression on the right side of the tank to allow more clearance for the choke/mixture rod. Some tanks had embossed X's on the end plates for added strength. The special screw that holds the overflow tube beneath the outlet casting is oriented such that some are accessed from inside the car and others from under the hood. Someday I will figure out the art of posting pics to aid in these discussions.
Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
Dave: A little off topic... Try to e-mail the photos you want to post to yourself. If your e-mail program asks if you want to resize your pics. choose that option. Then check your e-mail and you have photos that should post here as-is. I know how to resize pics, but I do not do it enough to be fast at it. but it is so fast for me to just do it as a e-mail that's the way I do it most of the time. May not work with your programs but it does with mine....
I wish I could show you guys what else is around me. I can tell you that we have 1927 Model T Fordor and a 1957 Caddy Coupe deVille, Pink with gold trim. Also some really large wagons.
I guess I should have mention this earlier, I am considered "non-tradition" student, I am in my 40s.
Got to work on the runabout today. Sure enough, all it took was a magnet and it came right off.
The gas tank looks really bad inside, I hope I can find someone local to clean it...
The tank is on the floor in my "26 at the moment and as a wild guess is it for our RHD cars steering column to fit under?
I recently had to replace the tank on my 26 and cleaned the rust and scale out of the "new" one by dumping about 10 pounds of lead bird-shot in there and spending about twenty minutes a day, for a few weeks, tumbling the tank around by hand ( out of the car ). It worked great. The tank turned out shiny clean inside. Putting it back into the car was pretty darn difficult... And took a solid 3 hours of cussing.
I guess you now use leaded gas in your T ?