is the silver paint that is on model t tire rims a special paint? Is there something that I might get at a local paint store?
Originally the demountable rims were galvanized, but Ford advised to paint them with silver paint when touching them up. Any good silver paint should work, I think
well, Cadmium plated rather than galvanized. Baring actual cadmium plating, I like Eastwood Silver Cadmium aerosol. I'm sure others have other opinions, though. Regular silver paint is a bit too shiny.
Zinc plated according to the encyclopedia: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/U-Z.htm#wheels
"Demountable rims available as an option, using 30 x 3-1/2 tires all around.(--) The rims were zinc plated"
Just get some aluminum spray paint and have at it.
Here's a thread with experiences with different types of paint:http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/83448.html?1236095592
And here Steve Jelf is showing off his galvanized rims http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/298628.html
On our Aussie rims we seem to have had both hot dip galvanised and electroplated zinc rims. Most were electroplated, which gives a more even coating but less effective rust protection.
Cadmium plating is usually yellow/gold in colour, and has largely been stopped now due to concerns about heavy metals in the environment.
Hope this helps.
allan from down under.
Krylon makes a "nickel" colored metallic paint that lays well, dries fast and has IMO a perfect shade with no shine.
Used the Krylon on my Shaw rims - you can see them on my profile picture. I'm really happy with the way they look.
I used the Tremclad Hammered. Everything from the application to the look to the durability seemed so perfect (see my profile). Lots of quality spray paints nowadays. Just be sure to avoid the old aluminum paint.
Rustolium makes a paint called "Galviolium" that is a cold galvinized paint.
I had mine powder-coated in a silver color.
Not as nice as real galvanizing (zinc coating), but very similar in appearance. It's also much harder and more durable than paint.
Dave wells- You've "aroused" my curiosity. Your comment,....."Just be sure to avoid the old aluminum paint."
Electrozinc is cheaply available where I live. Check around. Hot dip galvanizing is also available for a bit more
Allan's phrase "electroplated, which gives a more even coating but less effective rust protection" is an understatement. Hot dip galvanizing is much better. I buy hot dipped roofing nails at auctions because the electroplated ones they sell in stores now turn to rust spots in a few years.
As Roger pointed out, Ford rims were galvanized (zinc coated), not cadmium plated.
Well Harold, the aluminum paint I'm thinking of produces a cheap looking, very bright finish with no durability at all. That was a long time ago. Maybe it is better now but I doubt it.
Ashh,.....I see,......poor finish. I thought perhaps there was something "hazardous" about it or something. Thanx,....harold
In these parts that's called Oklahoma chrome.
I read somewhere, years ago that Ford originally plated the rims with cadmium which, these days would cost a fortune. Sherwin Williams puts out a roof paint called "Silver Brite"(Number5s on the can are: B59 S 11 / 631-1336). It brushes on and gives the brightest, shiniest, most durable silver finish I've ever come across, short of plating. After shaking when applying it, it goes on sort of an uneven grey, but the silver rises to the surface and you end up with the smoothest, most uniform silver finish that you can almost see your reflection in. Jim Patrick
Until I see some reliable source cited for the cadmium legend, I'm going with what Bruce says in the encyclopedia:
"Ford Demountable (1924-1925)
Demountable rims available as standard equipment on the closed cars (coupe and sedan), using 30 x 3-1/2 tires all around. Hayes, Kelsey, and Ford supplied wheels, so there were variations in the style. The rims were zinc plated. [Galvanized is another term for this.] Non-demountable wheels continued as standard equipment on the open cars. The demountable- rim wheels were later offered as an option on the open cars. Non-demountable wheels no longer had the steel tubing around the valve-stem hole."
I just use aluminum Rustoleum if it gets scratched up just retouch with a brush.
Just in case anybody missed that,
RE: aluminum paint too shiny and not durable?
These rims were painted 63 years ago with a brush - brown primer followed by aluminum paint.
I wonder if the original zinc plating was hot dipped galvanized or electroplated. Normally zinc plating refers to electroplated and galvanized refers to hot dipped. They look different and the durability is much different.
I would guess that the originals were electroplated because if they were hot dip galvanized there would be a lot of really good original galvanized rims today. I'm sure someone knows for sure.
Zinc coating impedes corrosion, but doesn't stop it. Natural acidity in rainwater slowly turns it to zinc oxide which washes away. This is why you see rusty "tin roofs". They're steel that was originally galvanized. Add the salt that's put on roads in much of the country, plus eighty or more years, and it's surprising that you do see a few rims that still have their zinc coating. I think I'll dismount all my galvanized rims annually and give them an application of car polish.
Whether cadmium plated or zinc plated is immaterial to me. If it makes you feel good, replace the word cadmium in my above post with the word zinc.
My point: Electro-plating is electro-plating and a very expensive and a cost prohibitive process whose look can be duplicated, if not exceeded in beauty and appearance by the coatings we have today.
From my experience, the paint looks nice, but when you have a flat tire and have to pry it off with your tire irons, they'll do a number to the paint. It might be best to do whatever form of plating that you want, which will hold up much better. But in the end, it's up to you. Painting is certainly much easier!
When I got my car last June, all the rims had been painted black, so I had my spare rim powdercoated black to match. I was able to mount my spare tire (a new Universal T Driver) onto the rim without damaging the powdercoat.
When the time comes to get new tires, I'm going to dismount all five and have the rims blasted and powdercoated silver.
I have no idea what electroplating would cost. I go with hot dip because it's better. If it also costs less, all the better. I spent a little over $33 each to coat seven rims. If I could get enough rims together to make the maximum number that the minimum charge would cover, the cost would come to about $4 a rim.
I've been using silver paint (mostly Rustoleum brand) for fifty years or so and have had no problems. The rims on my TT that is on my profile picture were painted with it over Rustoleum primer and they still look the same. It is very durable. Dave
I forgot to say, it can be touched up very easily with a brush. There is not much, if any difference between the the spray paint, or the brush paint. Either is very durable. Dave
Cd or Zn, not too much difference. They're first cousins on the Periodic Table.