1921 Touring restoration rear seat question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: 1921 Touring restoration rear seat question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Friday, February 28, 2014 - 08:05 pm:

I am restoring a 21 5 piece back low cowl touring and have a new set of the correct springs from Snyders. I am getting ready for the interior kit from Classtique and I noticed the rear spring wont go down flush into the rear kick panel lip. Also the rear body pillar angles are about 1/4" inch high and the spring frame hits them. Were they all this way or?
Also what are the 2 holes for in the rear kick panel lip for? Am I leaving something out?
The pics show the rear seat area and any help would be appreciated! Here are the pics. I want to get things cleared up by the time the interior kit arrives.seatseat


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, February 28, 2014 - 09:27 pm:

You will have a little more room for the spring when the seat cover is installed. That lower lip is crimped up and over a cord that is running along the bottom edge of the seat cover. The little dips in the edge could be for strength or could have been for fingers to lift a lid.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Friday, February 28, 2014 - 09:29 pm:

There's only a couple of things that could be the problem, 1) not the right year spring for your car. 2) not a rear seat spring at all. As I remember 21's have a 4" radius on all four corners those look like mine (2"), my car is a 22.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown on Friday, February 28, 2014 - 09:36 pm:

The little dips are to hold the springs in place. They are crimped over the springs. As to the cord Im not sure. I would think the uphoulstery would take up any room gained by the lip being folded up, but again Im not sure. I know my rear seat bottom is tight. I have to push it back into the area at the bottom of the backrest cushion to get it to go in.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, February 28, 2014 - 09:43 pm:

The rear springs I have seen do have to be shoved into place. I think he asking about the two dips in the lip that holds the springs.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Friday, February 28, 2014 - 10:30 pm:

Yes I thought about the front of the spring needs more of a radius. The rear of the spring does have more radius and if I reverse it to the front the it sure doesn't look right.
I will call Snyders Mon to ask them if the 16-21 springs have the rounded radius the front and back of the spring.
I think its the right one because it fits and looks right other than hitting the pillar angles.
Martin does your 22 car have the 5 piece back?

The pic seems to show indented dips in the metal.
They are actually clean cut holes.

Also the rear seat section didn't have a metal cover. There are no hinge holes on the rear of the seat frame.

The front had hinges but there is no indication for the rear.

Thanks for the info.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Sylmar, CA on Saturday, March 01, 2014 - 10:14 pm:

John, sorry no mines the later style 3 piece and my seat rear box has 2" radius rounded corners in front and 4" radius on the back, your front looks like it's straight across. A friend of mine had a 21 touring and his seats all had 4" radius on all four corners as I remember.

But when you bend that metal lip over the upholstery bead they will get slightly smaller (about a half an inch all the way around) width and length wise. When I installed my seat covers, I turned them upside down on the floor and placed a board across the bottom of the springs and had my wife stand on it. Then I shoved the bead into the channel with a putty knife with one hand and crimped it closed with the hog ring pliers with the other. Doing that way was a lot cheaper and easier than all the other ways I've seen it done.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Sunday, March 02, 2014 - 03:55 pm:

Thanks for the tip Martin. Looking at the Classtique upholstery site they recommend using two 2 x 4's mounted on a table with all thread and compressing the spring assembly to allow the installation of the seat material.

You wife replaced the 2x4's in that procedure!


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