I see their are two types of adjustable lifters available today for the model t engines and was wondering which one is better or worse?
While some will say no, I would suggest if you have the motor down to mill down the lifter bosses just enough so you can adjust the lifters without having to; check the clearance, turn the motor make the adjustment, turn the motor, check the clearance, turn the motor, make the adjustment and repeat as needed for each valve. I have used both types and can't really say which is better except with the lock nut type, you need three hands to go with your three feet to adjust them!
Milling lifter bosses is used when you don't know how to adjust valves with out butchering an engine.
You don' need 3 hands to adjust lifter's with lock nuts, you just have to be smarter then the lifter's!
Lifter's with out lock nuts can and do break at the interference point, which renders them useless.
I prefer the 3 wrench type. I have only used the self locking 2 wrench type once, but I do not feel like there is as secure of a lock to the setting of the 2 wrench type. Some of the nuts seemed tight and hard to turn, for a secure setting, (a good thing) and some seemed a little loose for my preferences. (may not be a good thing) I have always used the three wrench type, they are a little harder to set (very little) but seem to be very secure. Remember that once they are set you probably will not touch them again for years. As to milling the lifter bosses off. I prefer the extra guide length to a few minutes saved on the setting of the valves. I prefer to save every little bit of iron I can when rebuilding a T engine. Remember that they are all we may have to work with for years to come. But again, that is my opinion and 2 cents worth. And you did ask .......good luck with your project
Actually, Philip, there is nothing wrong with using non-adjustable lifters unless you're using a reground cam. In that case, they'll be too short.
I'll be using a re-ground cam, so adjustable is what I'll use.
Question from a non expert: Arn't reground cams built up to at least the lobe height (or more) than the original Ford cam?
If so why would the lifters be to short?
Jes wonderin' ;o)
Bud, it's the base circle that determines where you adjust the valve play and the base circle is ground down to a smaller diameter on a reground cam - thus you'll need a longer lifter or a longer valve stem to reach down to the cam (with the proper play) when the valve is closed.
Thanks Roger - I'm a little smarter now. (With my memory, I hope it lasts till tomorrow) ;o)
Hmm, guess that's why mine will only run 55 with the regrind and non adjustable! KGB
Keith, if you've got normal valve play with std non adjustable lifters and a reground cam, then your valve stems are longer than std Ford to compensate for the ground off material on the cam. Another remote possibility might be a valve seat ground down into the block and std length valves, but then you wouldn't be able to run 55 mph ;)
So the three wrench type is preferred?
Sounds like it. Herm, if it isn't a trade secret, could you share your procedure for adjusting 3-wrench lifters? My engine has the three wrench type and I'd like to know the best procedure for adjusting them, Thanks.
The three wrench style, (with lock nuts), is definitely the way to go. I have seen the self locking style eventually "self unlock". What a pain!
You don't have to cut down anything on the block to adjust the 3 wrench lifters. You just have to be patient and a little resourceful.
If you're adjusting the valves with the head removed, determine what adjustment you need, turn the engine over till the tappet & valve is at its highest point, place a dial indicator over the valve head and adjust up or down as needed.
If the head is already installed, take note of the thread pitch of the adjuster screw. I don't know off hand what pitch they use, let's say 32 pitch. This means that each full turn of the adjuster screw moves it up or down .032. Turning the adjuster screw one sixth of a turn, (which you can easily judge by the position of the hex screw flats), moves the adjuster approx. .0052. Using that as a basis, you can make your adjustments fairly quickly with very little trial and error.
Sounds like it. Herm, if it isn't a trade secret, could you share your procedure for adjusting 3-wrench lifters? My engine has the three wrench type and I'd like to know the best procedure for adjusting them, Thanks. "END QUOTE"
Look under lifters in a post in 2013. It is all laid out in steps, and some pictures.
Great, thanks Herm!
I believe this is the 2013 thread that Herm was referring to. Herm, if I'm mistaken, please let me know and I'll dig some more, thanks.
That's it Mark.
Okay now that I have the lifter issue resolved what is an acceptable oversize on the lifter bores? Looks like they are running about .003" oversize.
Ream or leave alone?
When the valve stems are too short you have to use
valve stem caps comes with shims- a speed shop item
a set 8 is around 12 bucks.