I took my '26 Roadster out for the first drive yesterday. All was good for the first five miles. On the way back home I have to pull a long steep hill and the motor bogged down and stalled. I restarted and off I went but when I moved the lever from vertical to forward it bogged down again. As long as the lever is vertical it's ok and runs along fine. Ideas? PK
Is it only bogging down on the hill, or does it do now even on the flat?
I didn't have a chance to try it on the flat. It's a hill all the way to the house. Down along the river on the flat it was fine. PK
Have you rebuilt the rear end in your car?
No, that's my next project. The car is new to me, only put a few miles on it. PK
I had one that when I put it in gear,was like throwing 6 ton of weight on car and it would stall. It was from the rear end binding up.
Odd, do you ever get the car in high gear if you have to have the brake lever vertical?
Are the brake rods misadjusted so putting the lever forwards pushes the brake arms too much rearwards so it applies the parking brakes?
I'm going out to the shop now and will get it up on jack stands and see how things rotate in netural.
Just disconnect brake rods and let them hang till you get it figured out. Then you can readjust them.
Back from the shop. Running with the wheels off the ground all seems good. In netural, I can easly rotate the rear wheels. While under power or rotating by hand the rear end makes no noise. The rear brakes release and are free in netural. I pulled the inspection cover and none of the bands are tight or dragging. One thing I noticed is when I pull the lever back to apply the e-brake the engine speed slows a little. Some type of drag. Thanks for any ideas. PK
Triple gear bushing are binding up.
I forgot to answer Roger's question. When I move the lever forward and let out on the pedal for high is when the motor pulled down. PK
With only two gears and only 20Hp it is normal for the engine to lug down when going form low to high and you can not pull much of a hill in high gear. That is the nature of the beast.
You're right about that Jim! But I pulled that hill last fall in high. That's what has me puzzled. It really feels more like a bind or two bands applied at the same time.
Brendad, could you explain a little on the triple gear idea? Thanks PK
I am confused when you say it runs fine when the lever is vertical. Do you mean the engine runs fine in neutral but when in high gear the car bogs down while climbing a hill? If so, it sounds like a power loss that could be contributed to most anything, but in my experience, loss of power is most frequently the result of a worn timer and/or coils. If you don't have a coil tester, try shorting each spark plug separately while the car is running in neutral to determine which coil is weak. The weak or dead coil will typically show little change in engine speed when the connected spark plug is shorted to the head. Use an insulated screwdriver to avoid shock.
Also check the timer races for unevenness. They don't last forever. I change mine about every year or so for optimum running. Let us know what you find.
For the life of me I can't figure out how it could be a triple gear problem as the triple gears don't move when the car is running in high.
Richard, what I meant is that it doesn't bog down. The motor didn't miss, just ran out of power. This car has a New Day Timer, just for reference. I put about 10 miles on the car today and it ran perfect at all speeds. Except the hill again.
The only change this year is that I got the magneto working and was running on the mag. I'll do another test run tomorrow on the battery,(12v). And I'll run the suggested tests before I head out. Thanks, PK.
If those brake rods are out of adjustment, you will put the parking brake on when the lever is all the way forward, the same way as when it is all the way back.
That is why it is important to remove the two clevis pins and adjust the clevis with the lever all the way forward to the point where the pin will go back in without moving the rod in either direction.
Thanks James, I'll put that on the check list. PK
Well I finally found the enemy and it was me! I did all the checks suggested and went for a drive, same thing on the hill. Then remembered I adjusted the slow speed link. I checked the slow speed link, not right. I adjusted it with a better understanding of what was supposed to happen per the book and it actually works. Thanks for all the help, PK.
Glad you found the problem, and thanks for the update.
Can someone explain the adjustment of the slow speed link that causes the hill problem and what is the correct link?
How tight are your bands? If the low band is too tight it will run just fine in low, but the low band will drag when in high. If it drags you will lose power and the low drum will get hot and crack. The bands should be adjusted to bottom out about 1 inch above the floorboard and with the engine running with the lever in neutral the car should not creep. Also when the lever is in neutral and the engine not running you should be able to turn crank with the car not moving and if you push the car the engine should not turn.
Norman, that was what I had. It's a whole different machine now. Just took a while and good advice to get it right. PK
Adjusting the bands until a pedal goes within a inch of the floor boards works just fine unless you have a pedal that is bent due to years and years of past drivers stomping hard on the pedals, especially the low pedal. Two of the Model T's I've rebuilt had bent low pedals that were almost impossible to adjust until the pedal stems were bent back to the proper shape.
Michael P ; I am very interested in your last two words [ PROPER SHAPE ] Can you explain me what the proper shape is.