Just spoke with Dan about this, and agree with him..I need a trailer.
So, beside two axel and added brakes...any other suggestions?
I'm thinking 6x12 ft, and possibly tall enough to keep the top up.
What will I pay for such a beast?
I realize everyone is not fat like me but 6x12 is Small!! How are you going to get in and out? Are you only going to haul model T's and smaller? Remeber,Short will not handle or back up as well as long.Bud in Wheeler.
As a single car hauler, I would go 8 x 16 and tall enough to not have to fold the top. A shorter trailer makes it difficult to get in front of the car to tie it down and having a little space to throw your luggage and tool box is very worthwhile. This size normally comes with 3500 lb axles... Which are junk and come with 14" wheels. The 5000 lb axles and 15" wheels can run along all day at freeway speeds and not blow tires.
Minimum 7x14. You will need to special order extra hight, 6 inches or more depending on year of your T. Measure your T and pay close attention to the dimensions of the door OPENING. Different door suspension systems leave different usable openings. Mine special ordered from Charmac in Twin Falls, ID cost $5,000 15 years ago, I suppose they are a bit more now!
I have a 6x14 which was used for other things which I was considering using for my T. The inside width is only about 1 inch wider than the outside of the front hubs, but the door is about 4 inches too narrow. I'm thinking of modifying the door because I already have the trailer. I agree with Dale, if I were looking for a trailer I would go for a 7x14, it would fit a T perfectly.
The best addition I ever added to my trailer was installing a Ruckstell in the Model T !
Michael - I agree that 6' is too narrow, I have a 7'X 16' trailer. I leave about 2 inches on the left side of the trailer as I drive the car on and it gives me about a foot of clearance on the right side of the car. It is plenty for me to get in and out of any of my cars but I would not want it to be any narrower. I like to have the extra length as it gives me plenty of storage room for tools and even luggage when we travel. I also got an extra foot of height but it is still not tall enough to drive my 14 Roadster or 24 Touring car into the trailer with the tops up. I have to put the top down on the 14 to get it into my shop with a 7' door.
Michael, I agree 6x12 is too small, even for an open trailer. If you want to get an idea of how big or small a 6x12 trailer is; the biggest tandem axle enclosed trailer that U Haul rents is 6x12. Try getting your T in one of those. I doubt that the rear door or doors would even close on a 6x12 enclosed trailer with a T inside.
The minimum enclosed trailer that I think a T of any body style would fit in is a 7x14, and that might be tight. Then you have to consider height. If your car is an open car and you can put the top down, you can probably get away with a 72 inch or maybe, less, but if you've got an enclosed car of any year or body style, you'll need a minimum 78 inch. I wish I had an enclosed trailer, but I have a 7x15 open trailer, which my T fits easy on.
Thanks guys. I guess an 8 by 14 is more in line. Maybe 7 ft tall??
I use a 6x12 open trailer which is a perfect fit but I agree with the others, if it was an enclosed trailer, It would have to be 7ft wide. A 7x12 would work for me.
We have a 8'6" x 18'. In front of the car there is room for extra tires,tools,3,000 Honda gen,air compressor,extra fuel,and battery charger.A long metal spring loaded closet pole to hang cloths on!Bud in Wheeler.
I'll bet your clothes smell like Exxon, Ken!
Think about this. The wheels are the same width so put them inside and make the trailer wider. You'll be glad you have the extra room. If you ever have tried to do anything on a T inside a narrow trailer you'll never have another. Moving the car in and out will also be so much easier. Putting the top down is troublesome but manageable unless you forget it once. ya a little extra length is best.
This is what happens when you forget your trailer is too short (the second time was worse). If you buy an oddball , like a 6x12, you may have a hard time getting rid of it when you realize it's not what you need.
I've got a 7x14 with the wheel wells on the inside. It's snug but works, and was built tall enough for my top to be up. I'd prefer 8x16, but am limited by where I can store it and that determined the size. I winch the car in and out of the trailer, and have guide rails so the inside fender wells are not an issue for me.
Make sure if it is an enclosed trailer and you intend leaving the top up to add extra height for the roof as the T can bounce a good few inches higher if you hit a big bump whilst its inside.
Well, I have a 8 ft wide "V" nose Haulmark high enough to drive in with the top up. I won't buy another trailer that tall. Just too hard to handle. Besides, very hard on gas mileage. I have a shed in the back yard, 14' by 14' with a little over 6' opening. If I lower the windshield, lower the top and move it forward, I can get two cars in. Admittedly there is little for me, but they fit.
Smaller trailer for me next time.
The fellow who purchased my 16 drove to Nevada with a small enclosed rental trailer like you see on Uhaul trailer lots. It had an opening just large enough to drive in with the windshield folded down. Very compact. I was impressed.
Two things to think about as far as height. The rear doors usually have the spring loaded lift mechanism at the top. That reduces your entry height by at least a foot. So measure the door entry height. Many have a drop at the rear (beaver tail) that helps the entry height a little beside making loading ramp less steep. I have an 8x18 Haulmark which give plenty of room to tie down and maneuver in inside. My Tudor has bumpers so I needed the extra length.- John
This is the one I use for my 1919 Touring car. I do have to put the top down to haul it.
I had a trailer built last summer to haul my T. With bumpers, my Tudor is 14 feet long so I opted for an 8.5' by 18' V nose trailer. I had an extra foot added in height so it could haul any T. With removable motorcycle wheel chocks (perfect for the T front wheels) and 4 tie down points plus rear jacks the trailer was obtained for just a little over $6K. If you wish I can put you in touch with the builder who is in Huntsville AL.
there is a fellow here in Eatonton ,Ga who will build one for just under f 4 grand. 7.6 ft tall, 8 ft wide and 14 ft long. Does that sound about right?
I also have a friend at car race show in Fl this weekend. He said those guys are always getting rid of used trailers and upgrading. I'll see what he comes up with.
Just a few points to consider.
If it is that low, he is scrimping somewhere. I'd check on the quality or the axles, as stated previously 5200 lb axles are what you want for durability. Also these come in an easy grease option so you don't need to pull the hub to grease the bearings. The company in Huntsville uses fixtures to make sure all the components are square, most trailer makes just put them together and they may or may not be square and true. What is the quality and thickness of the interior wood? Do you have brakes on BOTH axles? What do you have for venting the trailer?
Just consider what you are getting for the price. Also measure the length of your car to be sure 14 feet is long enough. I believe a T would be pretty tight in that space, and you do need some extra distance for tie down placement.
My trailer is 8.5 x 16 and tall enough for my Centerdoor to drive in as well as my 1911 touring with the top up. The 16 feet allow a little room up front for setting the tie downs but is short enough to be very maneuverable. Also, I have a wind bubble on the front to help reduce the wind drag.
I have a 8.5 x 16. Extra foot of height so I can get the truck in. Just picked it up a couple of weeks ago....... pretty tall, but pulls nice. I looked for a used one for almost a year - the problem is there aren't many used ones that have the extra height. Depending on options, they list from 6 - 9K.
The height doesn't matter if you can't get through the door. I've seen 8ft trailers with only 6ft doors (and cheap trailers with thin metal crossmembers on 2ft centers). I wouldn't have a car trailer less than 16 ft in the box. Reminds me of the farmers who save $5.00 by using 10 ft gates because their truck is only 8ft wide. After they tear up their truck fenders, bend their trailers, and break the gate post a couple of times, they put in a new post and the 14-16 ft gate they should have used in the first place.
Do not forget the load needs to be positioned to haul! Bud in Wheeler.
Are there any decent uhaul rental enclosed trailers that work?
What are you towing with? And, do you have a place to park a trailer? What Bud was referring to is the fact that you need to have about 60% of your weight in front of the trailer axles. If you get a trailer that barely fits, it may work fine, then, someday you are redoing your T and, with the engine out, you want to take it for paint. You may not be able to position the car to get enough weight on the hitch to keep the trailer from jerking you all over.
Mine is 8 x 20 x 8 (Just in case I ever get a touring car) it is used, has barn doors and needed some work but @ $1400 it was too good to pass up and I bolted a couple of tool boxes to the walls up front so I have a secure place for repair parts that I need to haul.
GR,You got a good deal!! I wish somehow one of the builders would make a ramp door that hinges both ways?? Mabey a swing door that would open 5x5 when the ramp door is up?? I also wish a builder would offer french doors as a side door option? Bud in Wheeler.
I just wish mine had a side door.. well maybe it will if I can find my torch....
One of the problems with door options is added weight and expense. A 6x12 trailer would be just right for a lawnmower.
If you have been towing with an open trailer....big difference going to an enclosed trailer. As Mike Black asked...."What Are You Towing With"? I am on my third 18' enclosed trailer which was custom built with what I want....not what some dealer had on his lot for sale.
The options on my trailer are:
8.5 x 18' box plus 5' V-nose
Extra tall (Do not need to put down car top)
V-nose (5') Extra length great for making sharp turns and provides inside out of the way place for winch and storage
2 ea. Dexter 5K flex axles allows trailer to sit lower compared to leaf springs (Easier Loading)
Higher load rating tires
Electric tong jack
Triple tong frame
Frame attachments for Easy lift and sway bar
Heavy duty rear door (4 Lower Hinges W/grease fittings)
High secure locks
Recessed floor track for tie downs (Full Length Of Box & V-nose, Welded to frame)
Inside front Base Plate for winch (welded to frame)
Rollers underneath rear frame (When trailer drags)
Spare tire/wheel mounted on inside wall in V-nose
Aluminum roof...vice coated steel
Trailer was built by Royal Cargo, 2 weeks build time, $7200 pick up at factory in Ind. Contact factory direct. Trailer weighs around 4K. You can save 1K in weight going to all aluminum....however, the price doubles.
Think over what you want vice what a dealer wants to throw at you.
Great trailer, finally got what I want!
Les - sounds like a nice trailer!
I also need to mention that anyone pulling any decent size trailer should invest in a weight distribution hitch/sway bar set up. Makes all the difference in the world when towing.
Great info guys. I have an f150 to haul with, so keeping the wt and size down seems to be important.
Also, I don't anticipate using this thing very often.
Mike, I pull a dual axle with electric brakes, receiver type hitch with a 1500 4x4 2002, 5.3L V-8, auto transmission Silverado. I had a trailer builder in Utah build me a 14' X 8' construction trailer. It has two 3500 LB axles. 7000 LBS minus the weight of the trailer will give you how much you can haul on it. It has sides of square tubular about 18" tall. I paid in about 1996, $1600.00 with a spare. Texas Made trailers are similar to mine. I did not get a beaver tail, because when backing you can hit stuff you don't see. I use a winch to put it on the trailer, because it is a lot more safe than driving it on: too short to stop! Good Luck.
Michael, If you can afford it--get the wide trailer with the walls on the outside of the wheels.
Also--when you get a trailer--be sure to get a spare tire---and---have a jack that will fit under the axle when the tire is flat.
Far better than a jack 3 short pices of 2x6 and you pull the good tire up on them and the flat is off the ground!Bud in Wheeler.
I see all this information is about a closed trailer. What about an open trailer?
How much you use it is like how much you use your ladder! It has to hold you up each and every time you get on it, so, it still has to meet the minimums. But, if you don't plan on using it much, you could haul a little more trailer behind your F150 with equalizer hitch than if you hauled coast to coast often--if you have enough engine. Mine has a 24' box with a V-nose. I can haul 2 T's. but, usually a T and a golf cart. I have enough tie down points to place the car I'm hauling anywhere I want it, to adjust the weight on the hitch of the tow vehicle. As a test, I pulled it once with one T in it, behind my Chevy 1/2 ton with a V6. It don't have enough power to get out of it's own way, but, the entire rig ran level. With a V-8, I think the 1/2 ton could have handled it for local trips.
Open trailers can be made to work, but, hauling a restored car on one is tough. Special provisions have to be made to deal with the wind at highway speeds. Locally you can go slow, but, for a trip down the interstate a lot of preparation is required to keep from sucking the top off a closed car, ripping up an open top, losing seat cushions or floorboards and floor mats, protecting the radiator, headlights, and windshield, etc. I've hauled restored cars on trips over 1,000 miles on open trailers--not fun!
Below is a picture of my open trailer. Heavy duty with brakes on both axles. Since i got this I have hauled more friends modern cars than I have Model T's
I also use my enclosed trailer for storing my model T when not in use. My trailer is in a locked gated yard with a car sitting in front. Having it blocked in makes it more difficult to steal. You can not build a garage for what a good trailer costs.
I know there are insurance issues if someone steals your trailer....running a heavy chain around the trailer wheels and securing it to another vehicle would also help.
Having an enclosed trailer has many benefits....no one knows what's inside when stopping for lunch....a secure palace to put the car in at night or when it rains when on tour.
Other than cost, the only down side that I see having an enclosed trailer is needing a tow vehicle that is capable to pull it. That can also be said for pulling an open trailer....not something you can do with a "Smart Car".
CAUTION to Everyone trying to buy a trailer on Ebay. There is a scam where the Seller purports to be in the military (Air Force) and has to sell his trailer immediately, so he (she) has a very low price because of the necessity to sell and the Air Force will ship it for free. THIS IS A SCAM!!! CONTACT EBAY AND/OR PAYPAL for more information.
EXCUSE ME! That was Craigs list where the scam was, not ebay. Sorry.
I've used a single axle, 6 x 12 open trailer for almost 25 years now (time flies) and have put about 4 to 5 thousand miles a year on it. It does have electric brakes (a necessity in my view). Trips all over from Alabama, Alberta, California, Colorado and most everywhere in between. I've had two flats, one because of poor (factory) tires, and one from weather checking between the tread lines that weren't immediately apparent. Neither flat was exiting, just a flat, replace the tire and move on. I towed with a 4.3 Chevy S-10 and a 1/2 ton Silverado with 5.3 motor. Neither truck had any difficulty although the the S-10 did work a bit crossing the Rockies. Still passed all the semi trucks.
You do need to make sure everything is secured on the vehicle but for short (or even long) trips, an open trailer works just fine.
I consider my cars nice but not top dollar prize winning restorations. I would probably go with a closed trailer if I was hauling a prize winning early car or fresh restoration.
There will be folks saying you need at least a 3/4 ton truck, double axle trailer and sway bars. I'm sure they would be better but I can't justify the space and expense in my life.
Craigslist should be re-named Scamlist...seems its full of scammers, thugs, etc. It was in the news just a couple of weeks ago regarding a near murder from a car sale that went south due to illegal intentions.
I sold my Motor Home last month on Craigslist
I really like my low profile equipment trailer. It easily hauls my T's and my tractors. PK
With an 8 x 16 you can haul a model t or model a, but not much else. I tried to load a ford ranger pick up in my 8 x 16 and it would not fit. V nose is nice for extra room to get in to tie down and store the extra stuff. Be sure you get good trailer rated tires. I like my torque flex axles, they are quiet and work independently. I have also found that I winch my T on and backwards works the best for weight distribution. Yes, that kind of surprised me, but I spent about 2 hours at a scale to figure it all out, and backwards it was.
Walt (and others using open trailers) - Do you use a car cover when hauling your cars; specifically your Speedster? Just curious, thanks.
Here's mine. A 6x12. No car cover.
Never use a car cover on an open trailer. The cover will beat the paint to death and will destroy the cover.
Richard - I had thought that, but wanted to check.
Dave - Thanks for the photo. I'm considering a trailer for my Speedster, but the cost of an enclosed one is out of my range. For those with "open" cars, do you protect them from weather, or just not haul them when it's raining, etc.?
No cover, if it rains, they get wet. I have put the seat cushions in large plastic bags to keep them as dry as possible.
While I prefer to keep my cars clean and dry, I've driven them in the rain so . . .
friend just bought a car trailer from Blizzard --
he's very satisfied --
& a good $$ value --
Here is an 18' open Car trailer. It has well serviced Hydraulic Surge Brakes for use by several Tow Vehicles and is 35 to 40 years old. I use 10 ply Trailer Tires and cover them when not in use. The Winch will load with me in the car. You would need to lower the soft top. I have at times longed for an enclosed trailer but at 73 just tieing down the wheels is easy with the open trailer. A new 18' x 8 is the price another T. Unless you are storing a T inside I would opt for the Open Car trailer. Don't be concerned about damage to the car from Rocks as your car will take the rock before the trailer. I haul every thing from 2 trailer Queens and a Model M Farmall to my T's.
I ordered my trailer with drop axles and tie down rings. I don't haul in the rain but would if I have to. I agree covers on open trailers are very destructive. I keep the speed down to 90 kph which is much better for the top and gas mileage.
I have hauled my Speedster in a friends open trailer. It has 2 foot sides (like a fence) because they use it at Halloween for hay rides. I like that because there is added protection from road trash, and extra protection in case a tie down breaks loose. I took the seat bottoms out and put them in the car. The floor boards are screwed down. I added extra bungee cords to hold down the hood. I also stay below 65mph. That's about it.
I would never try to cover it like others have said. It will flap all over and destroy the paint.
Your experience highlights the fact that there is no perfect answer. Each person's situation is different--from their budget to their needs and capabilities. The trailer with little sides works fine for a speedster, but, try hauling a Camaro on one--you have to crawl out the window because the door can't open! Look above at Pat's pic of his TT on an open trailer and imagine it going down the interstate at 80mph for a thousand miles--it would probably arrive topless--but, for local hauling at nominal speed it would be fine. I can haul a couple of motorcycles in a 30' enclosed trailer and get less mpg in my dually than hauling 14 tons of bulldozer and open trailer. I hook the same trailer with 2 T"s behind my motor home and it makes absolutely no difference in fuel mileage. You should think about anything and everything you may ever want to haul and you'll discover one trailer won't do it. So, like everything else in life, you start looking at where you must compromise. Consider what you must have, what would you like, what can you afford. My wife wanted a trailer to haul her 4 wheeler. Rather than the minimum 5x8, I opted for a 6x12 that would even haul a T if necessary. A year later I used it to carry a T project from FL to SC. The best way to carry a T is an enclosed trailer tall enough to haul a car with the top up, or a coupe, or hack, or even a TT (since T's multiply and evolve). That being said, some can't afford a trailer like that; many live in town and have no where to park one, and many more have nothing substantial enough to pull it with. The best we can do on a thread like this, or the other one that's going on now, is to trigger some things for you to think about and apply to your own personal situation. (You may decide the best thing for you is to find a friend with a trailer and truck to haul for you).
When I had an open trailer i used to take the seat cushions and floorboards off to keep them from blowing away on the road. When I got tired of that I had a tonneau cover made that used the murphy buttons for the side curtains (plus a few extras) that I put over the seats so it covered the entire passenger compartment on my touring car. It protected the interior if I was trailering in the rain and eliminated the need to remove or tie down parts. I later had it modified by adding a zipper to open up a part of the tonneau cover for the driver so I could drive in the rain without putting up the top and keep most of the interior dry. It also helped keep things in the back seat out of sight. Eventually I bought a closed trailer and my only regret is not having done it sooner. If you get a V nose be sure to have the tongue length a bit longer as I found I could not open the rear door on my Expedition because it would hit the tip of the V. I eventually found a hitch that gave me the extra length but it weighs so damn much I can hardly carry it.
Check out enclosed car trailers on e-bay. If you are willing drive to Pearson Georgia, you can get a new 8.5 x 16 enclosed trailer with V-nose for $3390.00 Item# 221397769534
According to what is advertised, they will custom build it taller or with what ever options you want.
How do you beat a deal like that! Just "Do It"
There many car trailers advertised on e-bay....I have bought many items on e-bay and have not been Scammed.
Michael, see my comments to Anthony Ventrice on his thread for the same subject for what they are worth. Also I can give you the name of a dealer in Salem Va. (not that for from you) that has what I have in the 5 to 6k range.
Mike - Thanks for the input. I'll keep looking for an enclosed trailer (probably used), as that's what I'd prefer. Just wanted to get some opinions, pros/cons on open trailers as well. I have a 2002 Ram 1500, 4.7 engine with 2WD to tow with.
A speedster is made for speed and should be fine on a lightweight open trailer. Twin axle 16ft utility trailers with wood floors come available all the time. I saw one the other day in a yard for $500--didn't last but a few days! That would be fine for your first trailer. It will fit your T and your truck, and, you'll be towing only about 3K with no wind resistance and you'll have enough room on the trailer to position it where it pulls nicely. My 24'enclosed, standard height trailer weighs 3.5K when it's empty