Are any available? The 27 T coupe has 1 broken hinge and I noticed that while the very top hinge comes out of the door quite easily, the bottom two don't seem to want to budge.
Should I just whack them out with a soft mallet? Is there a trick to getting them out? (prying the slot open a little?)
Or should I be leaving well enough alone and restore/ paint them while on the door. (not really a preference of mine)
Heat the screws and let cool. Then perhaps an impact screwdriver will break them loose.
Robert, I don't know how those hinges are made, but could it be welded? Most likely any good welding shop could repair it. Just a thought. Dave
I have all of the screws out. The hinge just seems frozen in the door, like something else is holding it.
Am I missing something, or it it just wedged from the sharp beveled screws and I'm going to have to pry it open a bit to get it out?
Likely rust has welded it in place. A good tapping and pulling with vice grips should loosen it.
So I used a little persuasion with the rubber mallet and it worked like a charm. Just worked them gently a little at a time till them came out.
The only 2 left are both top hinges which are still in the cab.
They only had 2 screws while the other hinges had 4 (cab side) and while I can't see any other spot for any more screws, it looks to me as if the hinge has a "curl" on the inside aiming straight towards the windshield.
Am I seeing things, or is there something I'm missing here?
So the mystery of the upper hinges solved itself today after removal of the windshield. Windshield off and inner garnish moldings removed and there's the two screws that couldn't be seen before.
Problem being, IF you break any screws in that hinge, well, your kind of scr#wed because the hinge has to exit out of the front slot, so no extra room for anything but bare hinge.
Here's the hinge that was already broken. Instead of trying to remove the broken screw ends that were left on the backside I simply cut it at the bend and removed it through the interior of the pillar.
The good hinge on the left upper has one broken screw and I'm going to carefully drill it out just to the right size that I can break it of the back side with a screw driver.
I've read that the 1928 model A closed car hinges are the same as 1927. Can anyone confirm this?
Robert, I think the Model A enclosed "truck" doors are the same as 27 Coupe doors. Dunno if the hinges are the same. Model A catalogs may provide the answer as to available repro window risers or even hinges if they are the same. Another option may be Model T Haven for parts if you don't have any locally. It may be prudent to mark the hinges with a vibro pencil as to location in the door. 2 years from now (or 6 years for me)I could not remember which hinge went where and which ones were left or right. Once the hinge pin is removed and parts are separated for blasting & paint, it will be difficult to marry them up and then put them in the correct location to fit the doors later.
There are repro hinges available, $85 each. Was a set of old ones on ebay recently that went for $260 for 3 hinges. All 6 hinges are the same, just cut to different lengths and different screw positions. You should be able to put a LH hinge on the RH side by turning the pin around.
They did use 2 different hinge designs that both fit the same holes but look quite different. I think yours are the common type as they are the same as the repros. The truck hinges should be the same.
Wayne, some good advise there and almost exactly what I did. I separated the hinges and laid them out on a sheet of paper with location written on the paper.
When it comes to painting I'm still up in the air. Was going to get them powder coated (though this would be a good Tough option for a hinge) but I can see now that the powder coat would be too thick and interfere with the hinge going back together. (unless you ground it all back off where they mesh)
So now I'm thinking prime everything black, then assemble, then paint. OR should I prime them black and install the one half back in the cab, other half back in the door, then paint them along with the cab/ doors and drop the pins in when the doors go back on?
The hinges look like they are zero adjustment, in other words, they will go back Exactly where they were.
My biggest concern is screwing the hinges down with fresh paint and what to do about the finish on all of the screws when done.
If I had all the hinge screws black anodized so they would have a tough coating and not show any signs of a screw driver acting on them, then I could install them later.
Dave, it's the upper hinge that I need, so only an upper will work as it is Not a flat hinge like the rest, but has a 90 deg bend and screws into the inside frame of the window jam as I've shown.
Where are the repros for 85.00? I haven't seen any on line or in the catalogs?
Wayne, that door looks Close, but not exactly the same as far as inner structure. Which may mean nothing as it would only have to share the same outer dimensions and hinge locations to work.
Robert, Langs has the hinges you need in their 2014 Catalog. They are on page 154,
Hope this helps.
Thanks John, I'll check that out. I found the ones that Mac sells, but it says they come as a set of 6 and that they are All the longer style (bottom hinge) and I don't see how that would help me as I would have to bend the 90 in the top hinge and that Seems a little extreme. (could be done, but would have to be dead nuts on precise!)
Here's a pic of the upper hinge that I'm talking about.
Has anyone actually used a repop straight hinge and bent it?
Also, a pic of the right door to compare.