For a long time I have been fighting moisture in my crankcase. When I look in my breather hole there has been white sludge same when I pull the trans. inspection plate but no real sign of water when I drain the oil. There has been very little sign of the cursed white sludge in the the valve chambers. Part of my concern is lack of lubrication getting to front bearings.
The car is stored in a semi inclosed lean too. When the block was bored I made the mistake of not having the pistons on hand to fit (learned that lesson) so has been an oil pumper, esp at idle but not too bad when driving it.
I have been worried that there is an crack someplace so I an doing a pressure test. With the head on I made two block off plates for the inlet and outlet. I filled the water jacket with water up to the bottom of the outlet and put the plates on. Because the motor is still in the car I put a pressure gauge on the outlet plate and the fittings to add air to the inlet. After changing the gaskets I was using behind the the plates they passed the soap test. I put about 22 pounds of air in and shut the valve. I did have to tap the rear freeze plug to re seal it and the JB weld in the crack along the water jacket did dribble a tiny bit at first.
That was last night. This AM I checked it, still holding about 21 LBS and no sign of water on the outside or dripping out the valve ports.
I could still have a crack that opens when the motor get hot but am now thinking it is just condensation and the burnt gases getting past the rings. (crankcase and in side of motor is clean but oil gets black in a few miles).
So that is what I have been doing on my T.
Last fall I jacked up the right rear wheel when I started the car and a few minutes after I pulled the brake handle back the right rear wheel began to smoke because it had not stopped.
Previously I jacked up the left side but since the car was backed into the garage instead for front first it was easier to use the jack on the right side.
So a few days ago I tightened the right rear brake rod a bit.
I also poured a bit of MMO in each cylinder of my spare motor and turned it over a few times.
I should have waited for your thread Mark.
Mark, do you take a lot of short trips? Just thinking the condensation could be forming and not have enough time at driving temp to evaporate away if the road time is to short?
I drive from two to fifty miles at a time year round.
I've always had that white gunk like Mark says.
It bothered me at first but now I just ignore it.
Much easier and it never seems to hurt anything.
I change oil often...maybe every few hundred miles.
I think a lot of that has to do with the humidity also. JMHO. Dave
Weird, I never see that mayonase looking stuff in my engine. Vancouver has the same air as Portland. Its a mystery. We may never know......
Yes most my trips are short about 3 1/2 miles each way to the shop and back. I did find one of my gland rings was missing also. I know they were all in place after I did the straitening job on the exhaust manifold.
I just got home, went out and looked at the pressure gauge, it dropped about 3 LBS after tapping it to about 18-19 after 21 hours.
Now I am pretty sure there no cracks or internal leaks so I will just live with it.
I think it is how the cars are stored. Mine is in a lean too with tarps for walls and no heat, yours a garage with maybe some heat.
The only time I got that was when I blew a head gasket, after the T blew it's head gasket!
today I replaced the 26 steering bracket I had put on my 23 last year with the correct re-bushed and new felt 23 bracket. Replaced the carburetor rod from the steering column (I had to use a longer one to make the carb idle last year when I put the 26 bracket on), and re-timed the engine. Started her up for the first time this year. Sounds GOOD! Started the 26 up last week but too late to take for a drive, then got cold again. I'd hoped to get it out for St. Patty's day but had too many hospital admits "on call" over the weekend to work on it.
I finished putting cotter keys in the radius rod nuts back at the wheels. Some knucklehead forgot to install them. (me)
In my case I had to remove the rear wheels where I discovered one set of threads for the hub cap is worn to the point of being useless when trying to use a hub puller.
SO....backed the axle nut off a few turns, re-inserted the cotter key and went driving around in circles until the hub broke loose. Problem solved! Well... when I had the cotter keys installed and everything put back together. A good day out in the T-Barn.
Received a new in box set of real McCandless Mazda Magneto Lamps for the '15 (and I didn't even have to go to Chickasa!)...not for burning...just to have.
Also received two matching electrical tail light assemblies from another place. Project for the '19 Electrified Hack. Had bought a FP brake light switch a long while ago...switch works fine but pffft on that 3 CP single contact original puck tail lamp...these received are "A" style...one on each side ought to work decent enough and rather than load up the gen/batt with high amp lamps to see and be seen, I am going to play with 6V LED. Now if that all works out....turn signals next? Hmmmmmm.
I installed my radiator after having some seepage spots fixed, picked up my recovered seat cushion, changed oil, changed fan hub and lower pulley because my fan belt keeps slipping off, and took it for a 7 mi test run. Ran good with no overheating. Now just waiting for 2 wheels to get back from powdercoating and I'm ready to tour!! Don.
I spent most of the day working on a replacement 13 block for our 13 touring. Because I have had problems with the head bolts pulling the threads in early blocks, I have installed K-Lock thin wall threaded inserts in all mounting holes. Set the block up in a Bridgeport Mill, located each hole, and with an under size end mill cutter...bored out the old threads followed with drilling each hole to size. With the same set up, threaded each hole using a 3 piece tap set supported with a center in the quill. It is time consuming doing it this way but you in up with
straight threaded holes and inserts that are not crooked.
Using studs for additional strength, I have found that during production, Ford did not do a good job keeping the threads straight during the machining operation.
i rebuilt the carborator yesterday.
Just stared at my new engine for the '15 wishing it was warm enough to put it in! Got the leveler on and ready to go...but that's about as far as it'll get until this stupid Ohio weather realizes that it IS spring now.
Suppose to be 80 degrees here today. LOL
Taken 40 min and 5 blisters to get my T started to show my girlfriends friends.
Found the missing gland ring. I pulled the exhaust pipe and muffler. It squeezed itself into a small circle and migrated to the very end of the muffler. One less rattle!
my dad's engine does the exact same thing. Unheated garage in E. Tennessee. Only does it in cold weather...not warm. I believe it's a condensation issue and related to starting and driving short trips without running long enough to boil off the moisture.
Draining the oil shows no other areas doing this other than in/around the oil filler pipe
I put a new radiator on the '27 Touring and did some grinding on the last fender for the '22 Coupe. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will finish my six year rebuild of the '22 Coupe. I only have the one front fender to finish but da*@m work keeps interfering!
Mark, great detective work. I wonder if these rings can migrate into an intake also? Perhaps not as likely as the hot exhaust side of things.
I've been working on front spindles/hubs while waiting on my u-joint. A fellow here in town still has his machine shop but no longer doing work for the public. I gave him the u-joint about a month ago to have the rivets replaced. Guess if it's being done as a favor I will just have to wait. I gave up trying to get the rivets tight myself. The fellow told me a couple of weeks ago he would get it done that week cause it was going to rain and he couldn't work on his warehouse. It didn't rain. Never thought this project would be at the mercy of the weather man.
I had done an amateur restoration on my T back in the 80s (bought in 1955 for $35). Two years ago I decided to "get it running." That has led down a long journey from one thing to another. I have discovered there were a lot of things I didn't do very good back then. When I went to mount my wire wheel hubs, one spindle had a deep groove where the inner bearing sits. The other could be moved up and down about 0.070 on the king pin. Not sure why I didn't fix them right the first time.
The other issue is that I am now 75 and don't have the patience/muscle to work for hours like I used to. Discovered there is a limit to how many times a day I can manhandle a differential/axle assembly.
I'm starting to get some success at nickel plating with home made nickel solutions...Nickel welding rod and vinegar. I have the radiator shell with a reasonable protective nickel and the radiator cap. With help of "Google"...kinda self taught. Takes a great deal of patience.
Didn't do anything TO it but it's a cloudy, balmy, 42º here. the roads are clear and the salt seems to have run off so I finally got my T fix.
I moved the '59 Chev and '29 Model A out of the way and took the '27 Tudor for a ride around the 10 mile block!
The day started colder than ....well, you know, but the sun came out and warmed the town up enough I took Lizzy out to do a few errands. What fun. The bearing work I did a few days ago made an audible improvement. Sure like how this old car makes people smile.
Andrew... I can surely relate to that. See that engine of mine in the previous post? Had the same problems, with all the numerous issues in a poorly previously rebuilt engine before I bought the car, took it to Joe Bell who fortunately lives close to me, and got it rebuilt correctly. Started easy on the test stand. Can't wait for it to warm up say, around May, to get it installed! LOL....
That's enough Richard!!!!
I needed a Battery box for the 44"gage Snowmobile
so I made this, it fits the need.
You are required to make battery boxes in pairs. Otherwise you won't have one for yourself