Well I finally finished my 23 Hack and just got it registered with the DMV in California with no problems.
I have the car and a covered trailer but something came to mind - What if I break down for some reason which I don't want to imagine .
How do I get the car back into the trailer. I saw winches at Harbor Freight and thought I would build a mount and winch it in.
I do not know how much my Hack weighs . The winches start at 1200 lbs. to 12000lbs and I was looking at about a 3500lb with 50 ft. of cable.
Any body have any ideas?
As long as the wheels turn 1,200 lbs. is plenty. I just put a hitch ball in the front of my trailer and use one of those winches that are mounted on a piece of trailer tongue. It goes on and off easily and stores in my trailer box. Fortunately, so far I have used it for everything but the car. It easily dragged a engine lathe and milling machine into my trailer and they weigh more than a T. Figure a T weighs about 1,500 lbs, maybe a bit more for a Hack, but you're not picking it up your just pulling it up a slight grade.
Better to big than small, a roller is easy to pull on but once on a run our back up trailer needed to pull a T up that had broken an rear axle and lost the wheel, that was a dead weight pull-on!
Since you don't plan on using it all the time, just a simple cable hoist would work fine. No power required and less weight to pack around.
I have a pretty heavy one and have used it to load dead vehicles and tractors weighing many times a Model T. Just takes a few minutes and you're good to go.
Cecil, I have an open trailer and mounted a ball to the floor through a cross beam. I use one of those inexpensive winches. I got a deep cycle battery and carry it with the winch in the truck. It just has a button on a cord to operate the winch. I went to the hardware store and bought an extension cord wire and spliced it in to the button cord. I can sit in the T and steer it on the trailer. Also, I bought a Buyers brand tilting hitch to tilt the trailer and make the 5' ramps work better.
I use my Harbor Freight Badlands 9000 pound electric winch just about every day ....
I chose it because the winch speed is relatively slow and there is 80 feet or more of cable ....
I buy a new winch about once a year - bought one on sale last week for $279.00 then used a 25% coupon so it was just over $200.00 ....
I bought a cheepo winch from homier tools a few years back(38bucks) figured if it got me out of one jam it was worth it. I have used the heck out of it, even pulled a TT with rear wheels sliding on the trailer with a snatch block. Has a relay built in that keeps it from frying if overheated. KGB
I have a 3500lb winch in the v-nose of our enclosed trailer. The battery sits in front of the winch. If you have a triple tong trailer, attach the winch base plate with U-bolts or continuous threaded rod going thru the floor and around the center frame member.
Do not rely on the screwed in plywood floor to support the potential forces required winching a dead car inside.
Harbor Freight with their super sales have some good deals on winches. I fully agree with Kerry Van Ekeren...."Better To Big Than Small".
I live in Fallbrook and spent a lot of time testing ammunition out on the ranges at 29 Palms.
Congrats on finishing your Hack and getting it registered. We have a North County (Hidden Valley) Model T group that is very active. If interested, you could join us on a tour....or?? set up a tour in your area and we will trailer your way for a weekend tour.
I've got a come along like Jim shows above. It's one of the best investments I've made, use it for all kinds of pulling. You can find them here: http://wyeth-scott.com/
I have model 3-35-A-SLT with the synthetic rope. It is a little pricey (way up from when I got mine) but well worth it.
Oh......you said winch.
Big is ok, but a 3000# winch with a snatch(doubling) block to pull harder loads or slow down the lighter loads should work just fine.
Cecil, 2000-3000lbs. will be fine because you a pulling a rolling load. Be sure to buy a winch with the free wheeling feature. This allows you to pull the line out for hook-up much faster than
running the line out under power. A plug in controller will allow you to lengthen the control cord as outlined above.
remote control is even better!!
I hate buying "single purpose" items! The winch I've used for years was bought from Sam's Club when my dually was broke down and I needed to load it onto a 12T goose neck trailer pulled by another dually. It's mounted to a carrier with handles and inserts into any 2" receiver platform. So, I put a metal plate attached to 2 floor crossmembers up in the V-nose of my enclosed trailer and welded a 10" receiver tube so I can take the winch in and out. Also welded a receiver tube to my open car hauler for same purpose. I put it in my truck receiver and, with a pulley on the cross brace on my 12T trailer, can load a dead tractor. I've dragged all sorts into/onto my trailers. If you buy a little "weenie winch" because that's all you need for a T, that's all you'll ever be able to use it for!
I bought the Harbor Freight 2500 pound which is wonderful. It detaches from the mount plate so I can store it separate from the trailer. If the 12 volt battery power fails, you can also hand crank it
Just an idea to consider for those that get caught with a dead motor but still rolling T and no winch? I once got caught without my come-along and a dead engine. I used the ratchet/strap tie-downs that I use to tie the car down to the trailer. I had to use a couple of them to get the length I needed, just clipped end to end. I was probably near the limit for pulling weight going up the short ramps, but was surprised how easily those short handles pulled a T onto the trailer.
Of course, the really little tie-downs wouldn't do that. But you shouldn't be risking your T using those undersized things anyway.
Just a matter of figuring out how to do what you need to do with what you have on hand.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Cecil, what did you do with your coupe body? Dave