As a newbie, can anyone explain this spring? I am going over the front tierod of this 23 Depot Hack and this is not on my other T's.
It's an accessory "anti-rattle" device. Amusing to hang on the wall but doesn't really help anything.
I have a set of them on my '26 Roadster. I had to ask the same question. They must work, they don't rattle. Then again neither does my '25 without them. PK
Cary, that is a period accessory meant to get rid of the rattle and shimmy caused by worn out spindle arm bushings and tie rod pins. They do nothing except wear a groove in the spindle arms. Replacement of the pins and bushings is the only real fix.
After a while they will wear grooves in the spindle arms. This is usually what happens after they have been on for quite a while.
The best thing to do is to remove the front axle assembly and replace all the bushings. If the spindle arm bushings are worn the rest are too.
When I did mine all the loose slack went way.
Runs on down the road much better and noticeably
improves the steering.
It takes a little effort to do it but it is well worth it.
I run them as a period correct accessary, as has been said, no value except as anti rattle. Better than the front axle I got a while back on a recently running TT that had been wired up with baling wire. Regardless of the stories you hear, please do not use wire for this purpose! KGB
After reading your comments I would disagree that they are no of use, I had them on my 1913 Tourer for near on thirty years and found them to work very well, they reduce the steering shimmy which many members have used new vehicle steering dampers on their cars which is really keeping with in the way the car was made is it not. As a anti rattle stopper then fix your car and stop taking the cheap way out but many members I have come across in America and Australia would not take their cars on dirt roads or get off the tar and highways so there would be no reason to have them on the car. The roads in Australia are a bit harder on vehicles that's why they test many new cars out here and not on the pussy roads in other countries and I use my car on dirt roads and back roads that are not maintained since I rebuilt it hence they work the way they were made for. As for cutting into the drag rod, same answer if fitted correctly then they should not cut and as we all only use ours a short time each year you would not find the wear. As one last question to all of the readers, just how many of your cars get a full mechanical and body examination every year be for it can have the registration renewed.
In Australia we all do and if its worn or not right then the car is off the road till fixed, I was talking about this to some Californian members and they said it not required there.
Thank you Ray,
Your explanation was great and I am going to remove them and clean them up for reinstallation on the Depot Hack. Of course after the front axel is re-bushed. I have a '10 with all sorts of after market goodies and I have loads of fun with it.
Ray, I believe the requirement for inspection varies from state to state, with many or most states having none. California does require emissions testing, but not any other type of inspection as far as I know. But here in Kansas, and I think in all other states, you can receive a citation and pay a fine if a police officer spots a safety violation on your vehicle.
Hi Steve, by what you are telling me then you have a easy run keeping your plates on the car, after checking over a car I purchased in california in 2010 that had just been put on plates with a current tag was a joke, such items that were passed was hand brake cables tied on top of the rear axle in bows, no brake shoes inside the rear brake drums, brake line clamped half way along the car so it only had front brakes and the motor held in with wire and two bolts, and it got worse as we went deeper into the vehicle and it was on a current tag. I paid $14000 for it and I was taken. It was passed later after spending another $4000 on it. Now some cop spotting a safety item and emission testing is not what we have and if a fault shows out that much then it should be off the road, the cars here are on a hoist or over the pit, then jacked up and each component checked, non safety glass and the car is refused on the spot (plate glass kills) and any club that lets it through is open for massive legal action, every split pin must be in, all door locks must work and hold the door firmly shut, the wheels need to be sound and no loose spokes, a full steering check, all lights must work, the brass steering box on pre 1916 cars must have no movement in the rivets and the coloum firmly bolted to the firewall, some clubs even use brake test meters on the cars and the list goes on, I know some clubs cut the system but get caught out in the end and I would be happy to report them as it puts the whole old car movement in the spot light and we all suffer. Some owners get warned and if found with the same problem the next year then it would not be passed. I have attached a easy test certificate by a local club and the tests lasts about 20 minutes with the brake meter at the end.
Those anti-rattlers are spring steel, hard, and they will cut the spindle arm and groove it over the years. They make 'tighten' up the front end, however bushings and bolts in spec are the way to keep tie rod and drag link in condition to help prevent 'wiggle-woggle' of the steering.
Proof of wear to the spindle arm!
Ray -We have the same deal in New Zealand. It can be a real pain but allowances are made for old cars . They have to be safe but not up to modern safety standards . I to have seen some real shonky stuff from overseas . One vehicle had an engine mount glued on! As much as I might grizzle about mandatory 6 monthly inspections I am reassured by them. It's hard to see how a police officer could spot many serious safety issues from a brief inspection on the side of the road