Does anybody know if you can change out just the cylinder on the ignition switch on a Model T. I guess my tumblers are worn. They hang up when I try to switch from battery to mag on my '27 Coupe.
The new ones are available in #55 key only,poorly made and don't hold the key well. Best look for another switch.
Not all the tumbler assemblies are alike. Be careful what you do. The advice from above is probably the best.
The kits are the pits. Especially the switch internal parts ones. The tumblers are almost junk too. Perhaps a new switch is in order. Most expensive option but the easiest. Solves everything.
I used a few of the switch cylinder without problems just put some grease in it. The worse is the switch plate from the kit http://www.modeltford.com/item/5012C.aspx. I always order the http://www.modeltford.com/item/5012CBQ.aspx with the kit to rebuild a switch.
Call this individual.
Ben Martin in Tucker Ga.
He rebuilds T ignition switches.
He uses original parts as much as possible.
I am also having problems with ignition switch. I had the whole unit rebuilt-looks beautiful. I have only one key. I got extra "55" keys from MACS. They will not go all the way into the ignition. I went by an old key shop in Fort Worth. they could see no difference in the keys. So now what? Just order q whole new ignition?
Any GOOD locksmith could make those new keys fit in your switch. If they have the identical cuts like your original he can file them till they fit.
You probably had your switch rebuilt using a good original switch with the original #55 key.
A lot of the newer locksmiths these days don't know how to make new keys fit old locks even if they have the same cuts.
Are you able to buy blank keys, I have the switch but no key. Sorry to but in on this thread but the subject may attract more contributions from everyone.
Bill and David, look on the face of your switch. There should be a number that will tell you which key you need. They come up quite often on ebay, just keep checking. Dave
Actually, I should have said on the face of the tumbler. Dave
Sometimes the number is a little hard to read.
If the contacts aren't contacting, a good rub on a piece of sandpaper may fix the problem.
I had the same problem with the new keys from a vender. In checking against an original, found that the center groove, going down the one side, is not actually in the center. I slightly widened the groove, to bring it centered. They now work just fine.
The location of the "center groove" is what gives the ignition switch so many possibilities--In other words, it's not in the center, but at various locations along the side of the key!!
Although to me they are totally a rip-off value wise as to pricing v. value...my own personal view of course ...the master key set offered by the vendors is a neat idea for anyone.
They are but 4 actual keys...super thin without any of those side grooves mentioned
51,52,53,54,55,56 are the one as the only difference in these 6 are the side groove...
57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62 is the next master key...
63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68,is the next master key...
69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74 is the next master key...
All 4 are riveted together so if you have one you have all. Then you can have fun with other Model T guys without sounding like change in your pocket First time someone said to me, 'here let me get that for you' and started my car without me giving them the key, I was startled Then I found out part #2 of the amusement which may be lore may be fact. You have something like an 70%+ chance that the master key 51-56 will start ANY Model T
But at $37,50 for the set, I go squeak, squeak, cheap...
What is the problem again with the repo switch sold? Fall apart doesn't quite cut it as a technique...I'd like to know since I have one of those 'gotta jiggle it' on the Hack and someday it will probably need to be done.
some years ago I bought a repo switch and after a few rides one of the contacts was burned. I ordered a rebuild set but I couldn't get it work properly till I bought the 5012CBQ contact plate and had it a good rub on sand paper as Steve suggested.
Now, as someone ask me to rebuild a switch I use the parts I told before.
Agree Andre. If you've got a bit of savvy (and some experience repairing them helps) you can definitely make the repo parts work. It's just that their sometimes not just remove & replace items. Usually.
A few years ago I bought this back piece from Lang's. I found that the notches didn't all fit the tabs. I asked Steve Lang about this and he explained that the original switches, being from different suppliers, don't all have the tabs in exactly the same place. The piece will fit some switches as it comes to you, but not others. The simple solution is to use a small grinder to widen the notches that don't fit.
Of course Steve has the above mentioned savvy.
Steve, I use to turn those switch backs for my father n law in the 80's-90's until he decided not to make the switches anymore.
I spent weekends turning them on a turret lathe and my wife was drilling out the holes for the brass inserts.
With all the original switches and keys around, why would anyone want a reproduction anyway? I prefer the pinback types, as they are easier to take apart and work on. I also sand the inside as Steve showed. If the area around the pins is coming apart, Krazy Glue is the answer, but be sure to clamp the area that you glued in a vise or other means to the original thickness until dried. Works every time. Ben Martin saw a switch that I rebuilt, and he liked it.