Other than turning the key to off, on, or magneto..what purpose does the lever serve?..I have never seen anyone leave it in other than the up-down position at all times. What does this lever actually do? And what is the dim position?
John, the lever just turns the lights on. It will be straight up and down unless the lights are tuned on. The key moves independently of the lever.
Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.
Thanks Allan, just got the car home today and had a major brain cramp of the glory days of the 20th century..Was up at 4am to retrieve my first T today, maybe i should just go to bed before i ask more stupid questions.
John, no worries. I ask stupid questions all the time. Congrats on the "new" car. Photos please when you get some sleep.
Thanks Erich, you guys are great! Got lots of pics to share..Will put up a new one on my profile tonight and the rest to follow this weekend.
Lights: Lever clockwise for ON (bright) and counterclockwise for DIM;
Ignition: Key clockwise for MAG and counterclockwise for BAT.
Thanks Steve,..Now i get it...
It was sort of a pre-Art Deco way of designing things with concentric circles—a rotary switch within a rotary switch is minimalist and non-space consuming—a popular look at the time. In this case, the ignition key in the center, headlights on the lever.
Peeling off topic just a tiny bit; I liked the combination of Streamlining, Art-Deco and Egyptian that went into the Chrysler building. The '39 New York World's Fair was full of that stuff. Budd Manufacturing's weathervane comes to mind.
I have a similar newbie question, does anybody actually use the "dim" setting? Aren't Model T headlights dim enough as it is on "bright"?
Dim is usable if you have your lamps adjusted correctly and the buckets mounted and adjusted to factory specs.
And bright is brighter than dim!
You also get DIM if you use the twin filament light bulbs with differing candlepower, i.e. brightness. Bulbs marked "21-32 CP" will have one filament which puts out 21 candlepower, and the other, 32 CP. Since you have two wires going to each headlamp, one wire is the "bright" wire, while the other is the "dim" one. Important to have the correct wire going to the desired filament. However, most bulbs today are 32-32, (or higher CP).
P.S. I've seen incorrectly wired cars that energize both filaments at the same time. The electrical system will not support that load.
Do we need to start calling Steve, Tom. Switch off, key out and still charging better than 2Amps. How do you do it Steve, I mean Tom, as Edison. Dan
Dan Hatch, I was wondering that very same thing. And then I remembered, it's Steve of course it'll still charge with the switch in the off position and the key out.
It's that fine precision instrument. Maybe Henry bought it from Harbor Freight.
Ha, was thinking the same thing. Mine was made just the opposite as it is zeroed on 2 negative.
Kentucky windage I guess.
I use dim because it is bright enough and draws less current. I always forget what direction to turn the switch so I usually try both and watch what each does to the amp meter to decide.
If I remember correctly, the halogen bulbs you can buy are dual filament and the same brightness regardless of the switch position. The good thing is that if a filament burns out, you can simply flip the switch to get both headlights working again which will buy you lots of time until you can get a replacement bulb.