Starter switch and solenoid

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Starter switch and solenoid
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 08:19 pm:

Would you guys be kind enough to tell me how to hook up a solenoid switch to my foot switch. The foot switch is just pretty unreliable.

I have a solenoid that has two lugs. One says battery. It appears there is a smaller terminal at the top. I'm jut not sure how to wire it so the foot switch trips the solenoid.

Thanks guys


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 08:46 pm:

Keep it simple, replace the foot starter switch if it is defective. A good foot switch should be trouble free.
Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 08:52 pm:

The "Ford" type solenoid you have is called a 3 wire. Guess why. The large lug terminals are for the battery on one side and the other lug terminal goes to the starter. Now you only have a single small terminal. That is the positive or + connection. The solenoid's metal body needs to be grounded to complete the circuit that operates the solenoid. Current supplied to that small terminal with the body grounded causes the unit to complete the circuit between the two lug terminals sending batt juice to the starter. So: your batt + cable goes to the lug marked batt. The other lug terminal has a cable from that terminal to the starter. Your foot starter switch can have smaller gauge wires on it. one from the + batt and the other to the small terminal on the solenoid. Push the button, the sol. closes & the starter cranks. It's easier to buy a new foot switch. There's also a 4 terminal solenoid with 2 small terminals one is for power the other is ground. You don't have to ground the sol body on that type.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Shawn Hayward on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 09:23 pm:

this will bolt right on sold at TSC stores in USA


Universal Starter Switch, Ford Tractors 9N (Prior to S/N 12499, 1939-1940)

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/universal-starter-switch-ford-tractors-9n- %28prior-to-s-n-12499-1939-1940%29?cm_vc=-10005


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Garnet on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 09:35 pm:

Here you go Michael. Using a solenoid may work for you but it depends on the quality of the solenoid. When I completely rewired my racer after buying it things seemed to work fine until it was time to take it out for its first drive. The solenoid jammed on, leaving the starter whining away until I pulled off a battery cable in the trunk. It was a piece of junk (Made in Ch***). I scrounged thru my parts and found a NOS Made In USA solenoid and it has never given me any trouble. Keeping the T original and replacing the footswitch, or installing a solenoid is up to you - just use a quality part.

The schematic is not mine - I don't recall where I found it. Doublecheck your wiring so there are no surprises !!

Regards,
Garnet


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 09:40 pm:

A typical solenoid will bolt onto 2 of the steering column bolts for a mounting spot also.
I did this on my pickup project and it works well.
Yes,it is a added complication,but it is much less amps going thru the foot switch,thus saving it.
a solenoid for a 66 F100 should work fine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Coiro on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 10:44 pm:

I've been running a regular foot-type starter switch directly to the starter with a 12-volt system (including a 12-volt starter) for about four years, now and so far, so good.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roar Sand on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 10:55 pm:

With 12V, you are theoretically only running half the Amps through the starter switch.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Thursday, April 03, 2014 - 10:59 pm:

Thanks guys......

Great help.... As always.

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker on Friday, April 04, 2014 - 12:18 am:

In my experience the relay is far more reliable than the modern replacement foot starter switches. Use the wiring as shown by Garnet, though I don't like a single fuse...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Friday, April 04, 2014 - 12:51 am:

More fuses are just more intermittent problem points but I don't like a 30 amp circuit breaker since a valuable ammeter can easily be smoked while the CB is trying to decide when to trip. Circuit Breakers typically allow a very large overload to happen for a pretty good time delay before they trip and that can ruin some nice wiring and your ammeter.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Friday, April 04, 2014 - 11:11 am:

Find a good used starter switch, and rebuild it. That way you don't have to alter your car with non original parts.


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration