Repairing threads for spindle in axle, any tricks or ideas.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Repairing threads for spindle in axle, any tricks or ideas.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 06:50 pm:

I have to repair one of the threads in my axle. Any suggestions on how to do it with out the Stevens tool and parts. I noticed the threads only go 1/2 way thru the axle boss at the bottom. Is that for support of the spindle being on part of the spindle that is smooth, and not just on the threads.? I am planning on getting a heli-coil in 3/8 NF to do the repair. Unless someone has a better idea.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 07:22 pm:

Donnie, you might get on better with 1/2" NF helicoils. I have found Keyserts easier to fit. Because the kingpin threads are not a blind hole, getting the helicoil to stay in place can give issues. The keysert is also more forgiving if you don't get things exactly squared up. Inserted from below, you get a better start to the thread for the kingpin.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 10:46 pm:

Allen: Thanks for the heads up about the 1/2 inch NF. It will work better since that is the actual size of the spindle bolt.?? I knew that but us people on top of the world do not have as much blood going to our brains. You Folks down under have all the blood rushing to your brains since you are hanging upside down all the time. Must make you down under types smarter. The keyserts you are talking about, Do they have the little spikes you drive into the threads after inserting them. Thanks again...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Clipner-Los Angeles on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 10:47 pm:

From prev. owner mickymouse jobs my threads were shot. Currently have no space to remove front axle. I stuck in new pin and checked gp/play with pin in bad hole. For shim stock I used cheap feeler gauge and let pin self cut it's own threads, (Cue willyies for some folks here. This all was found when I was rebushing the spindles. I will correct in the future, but it works well for now, my bad shimmy is gone.
George n l.A.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Art Wilson on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 11:01 pm:

I counter bore the threaded part of the axle the depth of a 1/2 inch NF nut and add a small chamfer to the outer edge of the hole. I then grind down the outside of a 1/2 inch NF nut to fit in the hole and use a spindle bolt to align the nut in the axle and weld the nut to the axle in the chamfer area to keep it from turning.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By brass car guy on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 11:04 pm:

The best answer would be a Thread Cert. This is a hardened threaded insert with a tapered lip on the top. You drill and tap the original hole oversize using the tap provided with the kit. Then you use the incert tool provided to install the hardened thread cert until the top flange is seated using thread locker. You now have a permanent thread replacement that will not pull out like the heli-coil system. Heli-coils are no more than a spring thread that has little or no strength

We use Thread Certs daily in our Subaru business with excellent results and have never had a failure.

just sayin'

brasscarguy


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Philip Berg on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 11:19 pm:

I installed 1/2 NF helicoils in mine, all the way thru the bottom axle arm. I then turned down the spindle bolt slightly to compensate for the added thread minor diameter. Worked perfect for me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 11:47 pm:

I have installed helicoils in 2 axles. Both axles have been removed from the car. The tap needs to be lined up parallel with the spindle centerline. I set the axle bottom side up and line it up with a 1/2 inch diameter rod in my drill press. Then I chuck up the tap and get it started straight and tap it thru. The helicoil is installed again from the bottom of the axle. I cut off excess threads off both ends and use a screwdriver or similar tool work the upper end of the helicoil back into the threaded hole.

On both axles, the holes were worn enough oversize that it was not necessary to drill out the holes for the helicoil tap. I think the specified drill is 33/64 if I remember correctly.

I suppose if one had a real good eye and was luckier than me he could do all this on the car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Monday, April 07, 2014 - 05:49 am:

Donnie, the keyserts do have the little spikes which are driven down once the insert is fitted to lock it in place. They are probably a different brand of that which the Brass car guy calls a thread sert.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donnie Brown on Monday, April 07, 2014 - 10:25 am:

Allen Thanks, I have used the "pin" type before, I really like them as they are a "real" thread and not just a spring. The ones brass car guy is using may be the ones used for putting threads in hollow panels.?? They insert into a hole like a pop rivet and then a tool expands them to a tight fit. His may have threads on the outside of the "sert" but not really sure what brand he is using ... I am having trouble finding the 1/2-20 NF pin inserts. Lots of the 1/2-13 NC size. Still looking ....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell on Monday, April 07, 2014 - 11:08 am:

I think brass car guy was referring to time-serts http://www.timesert.com/ I use these where I can.


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