What kind of additive and how much do Model T's like in order to run good on todays non-leaded gasoline?
NONE! They run just fine on gas straight from the pump.
Randy, I put some marvel mystery oil in our cars they seem to run good with it
Model T's were built before they invented leaded gas!
I'm a proponent of Star-Tron enzyme gasoline additive. Though it's not really needed, my Model T does run noticeably smoother when I use it and after a long, winter storage, the car starts right up. Can't ask for much more than that.
And every now and then, I add a little Marvel Mystery Oil, which is a fairly powerful cleanser. It'll do at least a little something to help de-gunk your fuel line and carburetor, which, because of the truly ghastly quality of today's gasoline, might be more important than it used to be.
The gasoline back then was "non-leaded" too. Put whatever you want in it. None of the additives will help the engine but they probably will make you feel better about adding something.
Better to just change your oil frequently.
I don't run Marvel Mystery Oil, but put in a cup of 2 stroke oil with each tank. It may do nothing but I also start with 1-2 pulls in the spring after a 4-5 month sit. It acts like stabilizer as well as a top cylinder lube and lube for the valves. Since the gasoline in "the day" was only about 50 octane and often mixed with kerosene, anything you put in the car will run. Mine seems to run well on E-10 if that is all I can find but I don't like to let it sit over the winter with that as I think it breaks down quicker, even with the 2 stroke oil. These are just my humble opinions, with little fact behind them.
MMO in all the cars.
I figure anything that adds lubricating properties to the gas is a good thing.
I like to add a can of seafoam in the spring and a heavy dose of Marvel Mystery Oil just before I put the car to bed for the winter, Other than that nothing but hi test gas in between because I run a hi comp head.
Will (and anyone else who wants to chime in) - I have a Model 30 Rajo. Do you think high octane gas would be better, or make any difference? Just getting it running for the first time in 35 years, so any information is good. Thanks.
Dave doesn't only high compressions over 7 to 1 really have a need for high octane fuels over 89 or so?
I forgot to mention:
Wasn't the number 1 additive for a Model T just more oil since oil consumption and leakage so common? HA HA Yes I know , Dumb Joke.
Not sure, and also not sure what my compression pressure or ratio is on the Rajo. Haven't done any pressure tests on it. Just curious what others say. I can always put in the high octane stuff and see what happens. I wouldn't think it would be a problem to run it in the engine, just don't know if it would be better or worse.
I've ran both low grade and high grade gas. My T just seems to run smoother and I get better power for the hills. If possible I run the Sunoco super. It costs more but worth it to me.
Ken you are spot on. The actual reason your car runs better, starts better or does any thing better because you added any of this junk is because your wallet is thinner thereby causing you to sit straighter and reducing the curvature of your spine. You feel better. Your car doesn't.
I use Bel Ray 2 cycle oil, at about 1000 to 1 mix, Bel Ray MC1 keeps gasoline from braking down, I have had less than a gallon in a five gallon can for over 4 years with out it going bad,
A lot of people will tell you that these additives do nothing, and I suspect that a lot of them have no experience with additives, they just know they do not work, and some of them will also tell you that gasohol will suck water into your gas tank, so the best thing you can do is try different things and make up your own mind.
The 235 in my '59 Chev has an 8.25:1 compression ratio.
It runs perfectly on 87 octane.
Just because they didn't use lead in the gas then has nothing to do with why it was added later to act as an antiknock agent and lubricate and cushion valves.
Octane rating has nothing to do with the energy in the gasoline. It is only the resistance to pre-ignition. At the compression ratios of the standard MOdel T of 3.8:1, or with a Z or similar head at 6:1, any fuel will work. Most vehicles don't need over 87 octane until they get to over 11:1 compression.
"Snake oil" is Snake oil,because they ease the money from you to them. Very little good is accomplished. I was a Petroleum Chemist for part of my past life and we tested many,found none. If it makes you feel better go for it.
It used to be that when you pulled into a filling station, you either told the attendant to "fill'er up with regular", or fill'er up with ethyl". That's because what we called "ethyl" had tetraethyl lead added to the gasoline to prevent "ping" in high compression engines. Tetraethyl lead was also called "anti-knock compound", and that's because that's all it did was to prevent "ping" or pre-ignition knock in the higher compression engines that were being built by Detroit. Then, somehow, the petroleum industry began using descriptive terms for "ethyl" like, "high-test", "super", "premium", and my all-time favorite around the Chicago area,....."Clark Super 100 Gasoline"! This was all "BS" to dupe people into believing that the more expensive gasoline was "BETTER"! And to this day, many people believe that it's better, more powerful, will be better for your engine, etc, etc, etc,.......and this ranks right along with the belief that a clean car actually runs better! It's "BS" folks,......don't throw your money away! To me, this is just one more phase of the corruption within the petroleum industry and one more example of the deterioration of business ethics in our screwed-up society!
As far as I know, gasoline of today is leaps and bounds better than what was used when these cars were new. Even the E-10 is better than what they had in the 1910s-20s. I don't know much about the chemistry involved with most of these additives, but if you want to spend the money I don't see what it could hurt.
Maybe someone could try scientifically testing some of the popular gas additives and measuring things like fuel mileage, carbon buildup, etc. Might make for an interesting magazine article.
Jack - I was "expounding" at the same time you were typing and I'm sure you are far more qualified on the subject than I am,......I just know "BS" when I see it, and it really "bugs" me to hear so many people throwing their money away on "Snake Oil" as you say, due to being "duped" by the rotten petroleum industry,........harold
I hear that. Jared,It would take thousands of hours running time on an engine to evaluate that way.(for just one additive) At todays billable prices for outside lab,you'd be, soon broke and to late smart. If you just feel like throwing your money away,I can send you an address....
What about the oil added to the gas lubricating the inside of the tank, preventing rust?
Years ago, I played around with large glow model aircraft engines. One day I was trying to prep one for storage so I made sure all the gas was out of the motor, then added some MMO to help protect it in storage. I cranked the prop around a bit to distribute the MMO and for some reason (habit?) put the glow igniter clip on. The darn thing fired up and ran for a few moments. Didn't loose a finger but did learn the MMO burns well. So it is an oil and a fuel? At least we know it will mostly burn up in the combustion chamber. I do not currently add it to my gas, but it is my favorite oil to add into the cylinders of a sleeping engine to loosen up the rings several weeks before starting efforts are begun. YMMV.
I wasn't to serious about the rust in the tank idea above. Just a little left over 4-1 humor.
Top 10 reasons to put stuff in the gas for a model T.
I used to use this stuff in my Navion (back in the day when I could afford flying). I wonder if it's also good for cars.
MMO burns because it's made entirely of solvent. Nearly all of it is naphtha with a little paint thinner (Stoddard solvent). It's made from crude oil but doesn't contain any "oil". The pleasant smell comes from the less than 1% chlorinated hydrocarbon added to it. (Also a solvent.) Chlorinated anything can produce an caustic compound.
But like I said; if the placebo effect works for YOU, go for it. If nothing else, it will make your gas and oil smell better, clean crud from your gas tank and lines where it will be deposited in your carb bowl to corrode.
I swore off all this junk after working for a few years in a mower/small engine repair shop. People dump it in and their OK. They think. The fuel junk does nothing to prolong fuel life. It will go bad no matter what you pour in the tank. The fact is if you add it and your car or piece of equipment starts weeks later you just haven't reached the "tipping point" where it goes bad. As to MMO: the fact than grandad used it religiously doesn't prove a thing. He had to do valves and whatever else wore out on a T motor just as often as any one else.
2 cycle oil: did you know it's rated and the testing for the rating is voluntary? Look at the bottle. If it's rated there will be a letter in a cartouche on the label. They quit making A but it runs from B to F. F being the highest. Red Max carries an F rating. The last time I looked Echo brand oil has no rating at all. F is the heavy duty, cleanest burning, best lubricating oil available. Good for all 2 cycle engines.
Don't need to add anything to your gas tank except more gas. Any thing else you pour in there is the wrong stuff, and is not helping. Amy type of oil added to the gas is not lubricating anything, it is just adding carbon deposits and lowering the octane of your fuel.
My air tools have never had any lubrication other than MMO. It must have some lubricating qualities or they would all have locked up/worn out by now.
Totally agree Marvel oil is great for lubricating air tools..........
Well why is it that my 96 cadi with Premium only written on the fuel gauge has ran great since 2009 on 87 octane? That is all I have ran in it since I bought it. Makes no sense.
300 hp and all I can with it is haul a-- or grocery's but it runs fine.