can this be repared .the cover is for a 26 engine
Yes,It is cast iron,and could be Brazed up,shaped and then drill hole again.
thank u Jack
U doing OK??
Richard,sent you PM.
Lorenzo, I'm not sure it's absolutely necessary to repair your trans cover? Find a large thick enough washer that overlaps the damage with a hole fitting the original screw. Grind off a part of the washer so it fits in place. Maybe then the screw in combination with the three other screws can hold the u-joint housing securely in place?
Uncle Jack, hang in there
I had one on front of tranny cover and I tried the washer thing,but it wants to "cock: and I finally took it off welded it up and did it right. So far ,so good.
Lorenzo, I don't know if you want a cover bad enough to pay the freight from Texas (Houston area) to where you live, but I've got one you can have for the shipping. It has a worn clutch release shaft, but bolt holes are all OK.
Lorenzo, it can be readily welded with a nickel based arc rod also. Either way will be just fine. If you don't have the missing piece, one can be fabricated from a piece of steel, or just fill it in with weld or braze and grind to fit and redrill the hole. Dave
Lorenzo: That type of cast iron weld is a easy one to do. Any type of weld with a crack open on both ends or like yours a piece missing from the edge is very weldable as there is little stress on a "open crack" cast iron weld. The problem with cast welding is stress to the weld from dis similar materials. A "closed end crack" (like in the water jacket),that is in the middle of a piece of cast iron is a different matter. The stress of the welding has no where to go and will sometimes crack out again after welding. There are ways around it but a "closed end crack" can be a pain in the butt. I would grind the area clean, build it up with brass or nickel, and grind, file, and drill it back to shape. It will out last you. A trick to welding cast is to have the weld area cleaned (very clean), and bevel the sides of the crack or weld zone. Then take a die grinder or wafer grinding wheel and cut "teeth" into the weld zone/bevel area. Make it look similar to "file teeth" That will give you more "surface area" for the braze/nickel to adhere to. Brazing is a surface type of weld very similar to soldering. The 2 metals do not "mix" and re-alloy as a standard weld does. The brass just "bonds to the surface" Good luck with the project........
Do you all think this one is repairable ??????????
Water jacket that bad in this spot makes one wonder about how thin spots are on the rest of that block ?! If a rare or important block to keep then perhaps. Another block for replacement is way less work!
This block was in a speedster - full oil pressure, Fronty R OHV, lightened flywheel, etc.
It was "repaired" with solder, then full hi-perf. rebuild done and had been weeping for quite some time - replacement block in the works.
Thanks to all ,Terry thanks for the offer. I have another cover that I will look at local. regards
Steve: I could weld that and it be OK... Guaranteed.... That said, not everyone could do it. A good experienced welder can fix it. But ask questions and feel them out as to experience. I can not tell from the photo, but it just appears to be a freeze crack and not rust thru. If you have another block and plan on using it. Please do not scrap this one. In a few years these type of blocks may be all we have to use. I once welded a head for an old tractor that was not available anywhere. It was broken into 5 separate pieces. Luckily it had not broken thru any of the plug holes. It has been about 20 years ago and still going strong. So almost anything can be welded.