This is another long process
Been in the works for over a year again, these will be a very nice accessory, please see photos and tell me what you think, Bob
Note these will be in polished brass and chrome plating
Bob: If you want to reproduce a much needed part that a lot of people need, why not try the starter switch? And, of course, make it as good as Ford did, or better!
I like it. That is going to be a beauty. Is it to soon to talk price? Would you sell it with or without the wood rim?
They will have a very nice rim, somewhere in the 400.00 range, still working on details, Larry, the tooling is way out on switches, Bob
Are you going to reproduce the nameplate as well?
Have to check it out to see if its legal, Bob
Nice project Bob. Only issue I see is that yours is dished just opposite of what a normal T wheel would be. Observing the attached photo, shows the correct Neville Slider so as your fingers are still within reach of the throttle & spark controls.
Then I guess we will make spark and gas rod extensions, Bob
Mine dishes up like Bobs, and I have no trouble reaching controls, it was for a larger car, my buddy (now deceased),built a spacer for it, I've driven from Mo to Calif, Mo to Madison Wisc, to Denver tour, and many more with it.
Very nice Robert. KGB
VERY NICE--now for the difficult question (for this forum!); will it be available bored and keywayed for the Dodge Brothers??
Polished brass for those components, but why chrome plating when they were originally polished aluminium???
This picture was taken on March 20, 2014. Dad's 97th birthday party. The casting date on the block is March 20.
Bob, I like it. If possible, having the nameplate would be a really nice touch.
Great photo Royce.
Bob, if you are having nameplates made, mine needs one.
Allan from down under.
Having tried this project back in 2006 I thought I would add to some of the road blocks I ran into. Thanks to Tim Moore for loaning me his Neville slider to make up a set of master patterns and the project was under way. Casting the first half dozen parts things were looking good. At sometime after that I posted here on my wheel project which by the way I haven't been able to relocate but one of the first things that was brought up was this wheel was curved up not down as were used on T's.
That said I moved on only to run into a second problem. Both parts of these original sliders were cast in aluminum but when machining for a tighter fit I got galling. Adding slip plate graphite worked for a short time but the galling returned. I believe this loose fit in the original was there intentionally to prevent the galling but this looseness gives an uneasy feeling when driving. A couple of solutions were to cast the center piece in brass or to place a brass shim or other material in the slider joint so the two aluminum parts didn't touch. Brass sliding on aluminum worked OK it's just the look with the two together might not make it with the OCD guys.
To go on, the wood rim was next on the list of hurtles. Because aluminum shrinks about 2% after casting a standard size wood rim wouldn't fit. I could rework the pattern to make up for the shrinkage but it would again throw off the look.
I met and talked with the other Snyder, the one what reproduces wood steering rims and he could make a rim for an under sized spider along with the finger grooves but the price placed the completed project was out of what most T guys would be willing to pay and in 2006 I was trying for the $300 price range. I could make wood rims in house if I wanted to just do sectioned butt joint glue ups and without the finger grooves but to make one like most originals you need to have a one inch deep glue finger joint cutter but as I found out due to liability on the manufacturers producing these cutters they only make up half inch glue finger cutters. Snyder said he has his made up special and cost about a grand which might have been said to keep me out of starting the wood rim making business but I did get some 3" discs of O1 annealed stock and started to make one up. For a quick fit to get a completed wheel done I cast the wooden rim of Tim's in aluminum which shrank the 2% to a good fit but the heavier wheel wasn't to be a usable part as a sale item it was just done for fit checks and testing.
Having gone this far and still a long way from having final wheel for a T I switched to another style which was this swing up model originally from a T. However, after the 06 posting of my project someone posted a swing style go between that used the original T steering wheel and was fitted between the steering shaft and wheel. To me that made more sense then having to do all this and at a fraction on the price to do the whole thing I was attempting so I drop the project to this cheaper and better style at least to me.
Robert, I know you have more and better resources then I had but I posted this since I did all of this and spent ton of hours to only come to these conclusions and wanted let you to get a heads up on some of what I ran into when I tried it. Bob
Thank you, that's one reason for brass, but we are having a lot of issues trying to get it right, we do make the rims here in shop so that's not the problem, people have to know how much time and cost goes into each project, that's why I laugh when they say just make a few, I have almost 7 k in this project right now, hope it works, Bob
Hey Bob those look great. I can't wait to see one in brass. How snug is the locking mechanism? Once it's slid down in place and the little thumb-slider is locked in, just wondering how much (if any) it jiggles. I would really like a brass one as my speedster is a tight fit getting in and out. I really want to relocate my hand lever to outside the body, whether I get a new steering wheel or not.
Do you have a price guesstimate on a brass one?
Somewhere in the 400.00 range, OI am hoping for
yes we want them tight, Bob
Seems as though for $400 you could buy an original. I have bought several for less than that. I used one for awhile but didn't like the rattle. In my experience, you either have a rattle or they don't slide right.
Ye won't git mine for $400.
I have been saveing mine for my speedster project.
Shiny brass sure would be purdy.
One sold on ebay for $650.00 and shortly after that another sold for $450.00 so it looks like you are in the correct range on price.
"In my experience, you either have a rattle or they don't slide right."
That sounds like a good argument for buying a new one.
Mike, I think it is the nature of the beast. Just buy a new one? That is also fine if the new ones don't rattle and slide right. Read Bob Scherzer's fine post above. I also have several decades of experience in foundry work. When you throw things out in a forum for an honest critique, don't shoot the "critiquers" . I see how the fact that it isn't even a model T style steering wheel was laughed away,too.