Never seen this happen before, The filler neck on my radiator broke off. I noticed my windshield getting wet so I thought I busted a hose. Looked under and the hoses looked just fine. I went to remove the cap and the whole filler neck turned. I just bought this radiator about three years ago but I can't remember the guys name that I bought it off.
Was it Berg's?
Thanks Steve, Yes it was Bergs. I will check some of the radiator shops in my area and see if I can get it fixed but I may have to send it out to Mr Berg. Never heard of a filler neck breaking off. There seemed to be plenty of space around the radiator shell so I don't think that may have caused its failure. Tomorrow I'm going to pull it apart and see if I can figure out what happened. As I remember last fall while on the Ohio- Kentucky trip I noticed some antifreeze on the engine, I thought it was just coming from the over flow. Guess I now know better. Thanks again Steve.
Does anybody know if Berg's will rebuild a brass t radiator?
Will, I hope you were not using the winged motor meter. I found that the vibration from running and the wind kept loosening the neck. I think the new brass is not tempered enough to withstand the vibration.
Berg's will not build new brass radiators. (Unless he's changed his mind in the last 6 months or so.)
R.S. , It wasn't the winged moto meter but it was the dog bone type. If you think thats what caused this I will toss that damn thing in the trash.
Dog Bones DO NOT hurt a radiator. Heavy Wings might but I have heavy wings on my 12 for almost 40 years and never had a problem. I have dog bones on the rest of my Ts with no problem.
There is no need to be sending it anywhere or to even remove it.
Surely you must know someone who knows how to solder........properly.
That's an easy radiator to fix.......if I was there I'd do it for you.
Did the neck break or was it a cold solder joint?
At Chickasaw Berg's had a sign up with his brass radiator building equipment for sale.
Will,Is this a tall radiator? If it is and you did not bolt the upper part of the shroud to the radiator, the shroud will knock the neck off the radiator. I have seen this and soldered the radiator neck on two different cars that did not have the shroud properly bolted.
I have run heavy radiator ornaments and motometers on all of my cars for years with no issues and two of them came from Berg including a brass radiator he made for me before he stopped making them. The overflow pipes are a different story as the ones on the Brassworks radiators I have are constantly braking free.
Dog bones will break the filler neck off a Bergs Radiator if there's a Motometer on it. I bought my radiator from Bergs and though the price was good and the quality appears excellent, I was disappointed when the filler neck broke off. When I called Bergs he said it would be best if I'd take care of getting it fixed rather than pay to ship the thing back to him and back to me. So I just went ahead and fixed it myself. Kevin Wellingham stopped over yesterday and dropped a radiator off with me that leaks around the filler neck because it had broke off and someone did a Crappy job of soldering it back on. I have a feeling wings and dog bones with Motometers are really all that good for filler necks.
Steven, Iv never heard of being able to bolt the top of the shell to the radiator. When I installed it I didn't see anyplace to do this. Where is the mount located to secure it?
And it was a short radiator on my car that broke off. I think there's a certain amount of fallout on these radiators but I don't believe that many of them break. So far I've only heard of 4.
The mount is on the upper sides of the radiator. The screw is hidden by the welt. It should be just below rounded part of the shell. You should be able to see the bracket from the back of the radiator. The bracket takes a special clip-nut and the screw goes through the shell into the bracket.
Ken, Im not sure where it broke right now, It was to hot to work on. I'll take it apart tomorrow. I found a radiator shop here in town that I will take it to. I hope this isnt going to be a problem. I dont see me being able to afford $900.00 for another radiator right now. I'll let everyone know tomorrow. I take some photo's and try and post but I don't have much luck at posting pic's on this forum..
Hey Mike, it's "Whelihan". Hope you can get it fixed easily and within your budget. See you at the 'Reunion' in June.
Sounds good Kevin. Am I going to have to set aside some time to teach you how to spell your last nane? (See what I did there?) Hopefully the reunion will be dry this year. See you there!
Will, it's on the top sides under the welting just before the bend.
Had to have a radiator neck soldered back on one of my radiators. Worked great. Any radiator shop should be able to do I I would think.
Why did Berg stop making brass radiators?
"Beginning in about October, 1911, the drawings indicate holes for the rivets which now secured the filler neck to the top tank."
I think it would be best to follow Ford's initiative and put rivets there to reinforce the soldered joint.
Sorry guys, The forum will not let me load a photo. On my way to the radiator shop. This is the second time for this new radiator, The first time last year the mounting ear broke off and I had to get it welded back on. Once more and I'' see a new radiator in my future. Starting to feel like my old snowmobiling days, Ride it 8 hours, Work on it 12 hours
If Bergs is selling all their brass radiator equipment, I guess brass works is the only game in town, again.
I've been wanting to get into reproducing a Model T part that a lot of folks need. Seems like making a really quality brass radiator that's shaped and formed like the originals (Steve Jelf specifically mentions that the Brassworks rads have a differently shaped/put together tank) and that doesn't start to fall apart on you would be a great place to start.
I have a Brassworks radiator and was pretty disappointed with how the overflow tube broke loose (less than 2 years old) as well as one of the brackets inside.
I would like to keep the original radiator from my 16 but it needs some work. Can anyone point me to someone who can repair it?
Ok, I got the radiator out and dropped it off at the shop for repair. I feel I did find the cause though, In my own opinion I feel it was a two part problem. The solder joint was very thin but that said you could see where the radiator shell was rubbing against the intake to a point that it had cut into the intake pipe. I feel that if the radiator shell was not hitting the intake it would had probably been ok but at the same time if the solder joint had been a little wider and stronger its also possible that it may have not broke. Iv been told that I failed to install a clip to hold the radiator to the shell allowing the shell to scrub the intake so I feel the main fault for its failure was mine and not the craftsmanship of Bregs radiator. When I install it this time I will insure that its right this time.
Will and Others: I also have run with a motor meter and wings on several T's but they were original radiators. Like I said, I think based on my limited experience with a Brass Works radiator the brass alloy used may not be the same as the original. Mine also had rivets but to make a long story shorter, the guy who did mine at Brass Works failed to peen over two of the rivets.
Philip -- Contact Rob Heyen about a radiator repair shop. He has used a fellow in NE Kansas who does great work. He repaired some of the radiators on Rob's pre-T's.
I have a dog bone cap and Motometer on my '25 coupe and have used them for over four years and haven't had any problem at all. If the neck starts leaking, I think it must be a bad solder job. JMHO. Dave