Made a least one wheel look nice from this to this
Also made these little slingers, got the idea here of course. Thank you to whom ever posted them!
Them's some gorgeous looking wheels.
Just three more to finish, and thank you!
Are you using a Texas T style HV outside 1/2" oil line? If so, you really do not need the slingers. I have been running our T without magnets or slingers for 14 yrs. with no bearing problems (No Shims Removed). It does have a ring gear on the flywheel. Slingers are like an egg beater and foam up the oil. The flywheel is a great pump if you align the oil pick up with the flywheel. A wall of oil spins off the flywheel and will provide positive pressure to an outside oil line.
I have seen the damage caused with broken slingers. They can break just like magnets.
Some thing to think about!
I was going to use the out side oiler, but I do have fun making things. So, I have decided to make my own super large funnel to replace the ford funnel and also build another super large funnel that would attach to the inspection cover like the accessory one sold in catalogs. Planned that I could pop a air brake hose down through the mag post block off and blow them out once a season.
How will the slingers be held onto the flywheel?
Several people I have known ran flywheels without anything added. Seems to work okay. Slingers may not be needed. (Ever followed a fender-less speedster in the rain?)
I would use a heavier material if I were to make something and they must be solidly attached so as not to shift, bend, or break. They can really mess up a motor if the do any such thing.
Just a few of my thoughts.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Having fun making things is great. I do not like depending on the inside oil line to supply sufficient oil up front. There is no oil directed to the inside oil line. The funnel which is only a catch is shielded behind the flywheel which does not help. Besides making a large funnel, why not incorporate that mode with a larger inside oil line....at least it would not be as prone to plugging like the original. Need to be careful the connecting rods will clear as clearance can be tight. Those that use model A cranks and rods must dimple/bend the stock inside oil line in order to clear the rods.
Also, you can take advantage of the Mag. terminal hole in the hogs head. I have opened the hole up to 3/4" NPT for the oil pick point and then reduced it down to a 1/2" line that went to the pan aiming at #1 rod. Free source for oil. You can briefly disconnect the line at the pan with the engine running and see how much oil volume you have. I also use synthetic oil which seems to cling better compared to conventional oil.
Very nice job on the wheels.
Nice looking slingers, just not my thing. Trying to sling oil all the way up front to adequately oil the forward rods is questionable. The slingers will churn up and foam the hot oil. That's not what I'm after. The flywheel directs the oil....the trick is to capture some of the oil being spun off.
Do some experimenting using an electric drill spinning a disk or large washer supported on a bolt spinning in some oil. Watch how the oil clings and sprays directionally.
These are my thoughts, do not expect others to agree. Keep up the good work!
Got back to work today, all the wheels painted, one tire mounted and drilled and tapped all the slinger mount bolts and got them done as well!
Bit the bullet and I am just going to use the hv outside oiler with these slingers.
Les, I'm not trying to cause any trouble here but I can't help but wonder what keeps the magnets and spools from foaming the oil. I mean it's obvious the pcs of angle iron actually look like paddles and we're all used to seeing the magnets, spools and plates on the flywheel. Could it be that the angle iron pieces allow more turbulence in the oil simply because of their spacing and shape? I guess you've really got my interest.