I'm guessing it needs a fair bit of work and but considering the wheels, if in good condition, are worth a bit, as are the brass lights, ruxstell and rear shocks it would be a very good buy a under $10K.
What do you think?
I don't know if it'll go for under $10K, but it does look like a solid little speedster even for the buy it now price.
Like any T I would expect to have to go through the whole thing front-to-back before driving it very much. I like the accessory springs in the rear but it almost has too much rake in my opinion. Last but not least - I guess that's some kind of fuel pump on the running board? The picture is too blurry to tell what it is very well, but there's definitely a line running to it from the gas tank. Overall I like it. Just level it up a little bit and ditch the water pump, car has a GREAT color!
Agree with Seth, it would be a spiffy little car as is. Lots of nice accessories, desirable original brass parts and interesting steering column.
It looks like the item on the running board is an old timey oiler. Doesn't look permanently mounted and not intended to be in the pic.
I bet somebody hits the buy it now for 12,500. Cleaned up it will be a nice little car.
So how much are a herd...sorry, set of Buffalo worth?
I bet if a set like the ones on this car were sold by themselves they would bring upwards of $3,000. It's odd an unfortunate but the owner really probably could make a lot more money parting the car out instead of selling it in one piece.
Buffalo wheels in good shape with tires, 4k, I've seen sets sell for 4500 in the past.
Didn't Seth Harbuck have a speedster like that?
Seth's had a quasi-pickup bed on it.
Thanks Mike - failing memory again! Dave
I am buying it! It is off the market now...
Now I have to figure how to get it shipped from Shreveport to Ventura, CA.
Do any of you guys have suggestions about shippers or ways to ship such a car???
Thanks for any suggestions.
Whatever method you choose, make sure its covered transport. This guy advertises on here quite a bit, not familiar with cost though,
Ed is right. In fact Jim will be picking up a car at my house this afternoon
Jon, Congratulations! If you found out about the car from this thread, which I started, then I expect a drive or ride in it next time I'm in CA.
Thanks to you Ed, Bill and Constantine! I got the car for LESS than the buy it now price, so I am delighted. I just made an offer and they countered and I accepted.
Particularly Ed, I appreciate the reference, and will call Jim today about shipping.
Constantine, I did find the car from your thread --I'm a ready-teddy anytime--just let me know when your around!
I have been SO determined to build a speedster, that I even have a Mark Chaffin RAJO kit sitting in the garage ready to go.
Congratulations John! Looks like you will need another RAJO head kit to go on it!
Congratulations on your purchase, Jon. That car looks like a lot of fun.
I have a solution for your transport situation. Our Arkansas Tin Lizzies club is having our Spring Tour near Shreveport, based in Nachitoches (pronounced "Nack-a-tish," believe it or not) next week. You could fly to Shreveport, join us on the tour Thursday-Saturday, then drive it home! Doesn't that sound like fun?
But then if you're not up for that much T driving, you could rent a U-Haul truck after the tour and haul it home in that. What an adventure!
The RAJO in the garage is for the speedster that I am getting (which is currently a flathead). It is a VERY nice kit, but I don't need another one (yet!)...
What you suggest is tempting. The cost with Jim (his web address is given above in Ed's post) will probably be about $2500 in an enclosed truck.
The estimates given on ebay were $1200 - $1900 in an open truck. As many of you know, shipping a vehicle can turn into a nightmare if not handled VERY carefully. You cannot trust shippers particularly the brokered kind.
I have hauled for several MTFCA Members and
several Model T owners ....
Visit @ http://www.trulyvintagetrailers.citymax.com/trulyvintage-feedback.html
I also haul for the MTFCA Museum in Richmond, IN.
I donate some mileage to help get donated vehicles to the museum.
Attached is my last haul for the museum - ironically a speedster ...
Right now - I am getting ready to leave Paso Robles, CA
and head north along the I-5 corridor up to Vancover, WA ...
I have room for a Model T and/or parts the whole way ...
I am available to haul from Vancouver, WA
to anywhere in the lower 48 states starting April 19th ...
I can pick up in Portland or Seattle too ....
Good to talk with you on the phone ....
I have a shipping quote from "Inner City Lines" to ship from Shreveport, LA to Ventura, CA of $1595 in an enclosed truck. No extra charges or add-ons. I think that sounds very good, and MUCH less than another estimate of about $2500 (enclosed truck) that I got this morning.
I have used Inter City Lines many times and I have always had GREAT service from them. I would highly recommend them.
Jon -- We're gonna' have some larrapin' Cajun food down there on our tour. Where's your sense of adventure? No guts, no glory!
Although I have never personally shipped a car, I have been involved with the shipping of a few.
Car 1: Shipped from the San Jose area to Texas in an enclosed trailer by a nationally known shipping company. Car was running and driving when loaded. When it arrived in Texas the block was cracked and leaking water! Seller called trucking company and found out car went from CA to MI to Maine to TN to Texas! In the SF bay area frost was not on the radar!
Car 2: Picked up by a private carrier on a "home made" flatbed trailer. I think the hauler spent at least $50 making the trailer but not over $75. He was hauling the car from CA to PA. Scary!
Car #3. Haul from northern CA to central CA by a professional carrier working through a freight broker. (ie the haulers bid for the job, lowest bid gets the job) Car was 1941 Buick Limo. Late model enclosed multi-car double deck hauler. Driver did not tie load down correctly (car was strapped by the tires as though it was a modern)
The car bounced around so much that the roof hit the car above several times. The repairs were over $2200. Yes covered by insurance, but in the process of repairing the car the headliner had to be replaced and suddenly the original is not so original.
What I am trying to say by these examples is 1.Make sure your car gets loaded ONE TIME onto or into a trailer, 2. Goes in a reasonably direct route from the seller to the buyer, 3. Using equipment that does not look like it was stolen from a salvage yard 4. and hauled by someone that knows how to properly tie down a Model T. Remember T's are fragile and an overtightened tie strap in the wrong place can break things, especially on some of the rougher hiways we seem to have.
When we used to restore vintage VW's I'd by from the PNW or DSW and have them transported enclosed to New Hampshire. I found out after the first two that enclosed can sometimes only mean "in transit". They can often sit outside at a hub for a day or two waiting for another haul.
Jon, I look forward to taking a spin with you on an interstate at no less than 50-55mph. I light car with a Rajo should be able to do that I believe; but please add some accessories brakes!!! Wonder what the Ruxstell gearing is?
I have a light car without the Rajo and mine will do 60. If I could put a Rajo on this engine it would scare me. Heck, 60 scared me.
I like the larger transport companies like Intercity, Reliable, Passport, etc because you can track your car's whereabouts and they carry insurance. If you use a private carrier, make sure to see proof of an applicable insurance, not just a verbal "yeah, I gots insurences" Your insurance will not cover you if your car is in a "for hire" carrier. A while back I had Reliable ship a car for me. The car was a Packard roadster with a worn but good black convertible top. I bought the car knowing I would be getting the top replaced soon because it did not match the quality of the rest of the car. Well, when the car arrived, the driver began apologizing profusely that something snagged the side of the top and put a little rip in it. He said he already reported it to their headquarters and gave me a piece of paper saying he did the damage. Early the next am, their headquarters called and asked me about the cost of a new top including professional installation. I called them back with a rather high estimate and in two days a check was in the mail for the amount I requested.
Hi Guys (& Constantine!),
I am all excited. I am setting-up shipping today with Intercitylines and trying to contact the guy who originally built this car. He was a Dr. in Louisiana. Sold his whole collection to the current seller who has several dealerships in Shreveport. It was a good arrangement because they just wanted to unload the Model T. We actually settled for $11,700. Very fair price I think.
It is good because I have a 1914 runabout and I previously had a 1926 touring. In that regard, when I look at that engine, it finally dawned on me that is most likely a 1926 engine. I asked them for the engine number, but the water pump is covering part of it. But the first three digits are 138... My 1926 had a number 13 million and something (I don't remember the rest right now.).
Anyway, the generator (and starter) and the engine number beginning with 138...add up to probably a 1926 engine.
What do you guys think?
I see that is has a set of "float-a-ford" accessory shocks on the rear.
You are correct that the engine is a 26/27. You can see the bolts that go from the hogshead to the back of the block and the transmission peddles are 26/27.
Thanks for that Info. I was wondering about those strange springs.
Thanks for pointing out the transmission bolts and the pedals. I am glad it is a '26-'27 engine.
That is a little better starting point for a RAJO conversion. I also have a SCAT stroker crank (1.58 main bearing version) to go in it.
I think you are right. It should be pretty "peppy". I will also go with a Stromberg OS-1 from Stan Howe, a distributor and a Stipe 280 cam.
Jon, I'm not an expect at all on OHV but wouldn't you get more out of a Rajo with a cam specifically made for an OHV setup? I think that's the case at least for Model A OHV engines. Anyway, there's now I believe also a 290 Stipe as well.
I will look into that. The Stipe 280 was just a shot in the dark. One thing that is relevant -- the RAJO rocker arms provide a lever advantage of 1.5 greater that the stock Model T. That is, the valves open 1.5 times wider than w/o the RAJO rockers. So you get a better flow anyway, but how that effects the type of cam that you should use is a mystery to my feeble brain. But now that you have mentioned it, I will ask people who know more than I do. For example, Glen Chaffin and Bill Stipe, bearing in mind that they both have some bias.
Jon, what's the plan for stopping this thing?
Jon, yes I've heard the x1.5 thing too with regards to Model A OHV...and again I would be wrong...but I believe I heard someone say a fairly stock cam like the 250 Stipe is a works better with a OHV.
Dan McEachern makes a very nice modified Model A cam for use with an overhead. More dwell and duration for better breathing. That would be my first choice. If going with a stock T cam, I would go with a .250 or .260.
I have not decided on brakes yet. Here are some pics of the Sure-Stops that I am putting on my '14 runabout:
I do not know how compatible these would be on the speedster with Buffalo Wheels and who knows what other details. Notice that I am going to use McLaren Wheels on the runabout. It also has floating hubs in there.
Rocky Mountains are a possibility on the speedster, but I do not like rear braking problem with them.
Constantine and Mark,
I have not really decided on a cam yet either, but I guess now is the time to be discussing it. McEachern's cam sounds interesting. I will look into that some more. Mike Bender (I think?) told me that a 280 would be Ok, but Ok isn't good enough. I am looking for the best overall solution -- a cam that has a little more pep but doesn't idle like a Bonneville racer.
A front brake kit is coming out later this year it seems. There is a recent post on the forum about it.
Which is the best cam also depends on your gearing and what you will use the car for.
Do you plan to keep the Ruxstell or fit a Warford or perhaps fit a correct 1914 rear or fit a 26-27 rear to get the bigger brakes?
I plan to keep the Ruckstell if it works Ok. On my '14 runabout I just put in a Ruckstell with a 3.25:1 rear end. I am still in the process of hooking up the Sure-Stop brakes.
I like the idea of a 3.25:1 and Ruckstell together. You get a better higher end AND lower end. This is particularly true for speedsters that have more power.
Correct? I am not familiar with the meaning of that word in this context...!
I have one more question. It turns out that I had the opportunity to buy a carbide generator for this car, and it is the side-mounted type. I have a bottom mounted type on my '14 runabout.
How did the side mounted type attach to the car?
Thanks for any info,
Side-mounted generators were rarely used on Fords. In 1909 you could buy a Ford without accessories & if a carbide generator was attached later on, maybe a side-mounted could have been used like on the early 2-lever Touring in this post: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/408189.html?1387270378
Jon, what's the latest with the car? Give us an update.
Does anyone have pics of it?