I have new coils and plugs with good spark. Did get a backfire a couple of times. I have a new commutator as well. Thanks
What gas mixture setting are you using for initial starting ?
Suggest gently closing ( clockwise ) the mixture control so the needle valve won't be scored, then open mixture adjustment two full turns & start in your usual procedure...... and .... ooops, valve on sediment bowl open ? .... hey it's hapened to the best of us.
Do you have the ignition timing set? If you changed the timer, the timing maybe be retarded too much to start.
I have tried different timing adjustments without results.
I have the needle valve open 1 1/2 turns right now. I'll try 2 turns. Since it hasn't been started in 30 years do you think the intake gaskets might be the problem?
check manifold nuts , snug ?
Do you have gas in the carb? Are the gas lines open? ANother thing is the float level set right?
Jim, A back-fire may indicate the timing is off. Be sure to check your wiring at your timer as well as at the spark plugs. Ask me why I know this! Joe
Intake gaskets, have someone hold hand over choke side of carb. while you spin the motor, check for suction, Bob
also open drain to see if you have gas in the bowl
How old is your gas?
You might need to pull the car to get it to start the first time. Since it has been 30 years, there might not be enough oil on the rings to seal the compression. Try a few drops of oil in each spark plug hole and rotate the engine a few times. Then try to start it. If it still won't start, you have either a fuel supply problem or an ignition problem. If you have a friend who has a running Model T, ask if you can swap carburetors and see if your carburetor will work on his car and if his will work on yours. If his works on yours and yours doesn't work on his, then you know you have a carburetor problem.
I'm with the timing boys. Set your carb needle to about 1 1/2 turns open but if you're getting back firing your getting some fuel. They don't back fire on air alone.
Good info. Thanks. Jim
Make sure you have compression on all four cylinders at cranking speed. It sounds like you have an intake valve stuck open or closing slow enough that you are blowing the mixture back down the intake manifold. Underline the "Cranking speed." The valves may be closing but closing slow. Take the side cover off the engine and spray some carb cleaner on the valve stems, then spray some light oil -- not WD-40 -- on the stems and lifters. Penetrating oil is OK. Check to see that they are all closing all the way.
Who rebuilt the NH?? Are you sure it's OK???
"...different timing adjustments without results..." are the words that caught my eye. Only one setting is right. Are you sure you're there?
Take the plugs out but leave the wires attached and put the timer lever in full retard. With the key off turn the engine till it's at TDC on the No 1 compression stroke. Now turn just enough to take it over onto the down stroke. (with a flash light you can watch the piston) Disconnect the rod from the timer. Turn the key on, if the No one coil is buzzing rotate the timer counter clockwise till it stops. Now turn clockwise till it just starts buzzing again. Turn the key off. Bend the timer rod to fit into the hole without moving the timer. Don't forget to put the cotter pin back when done.
The crank pulley pin is horizontal at TDC.
If still having trouble, check timer roller/flapper/brush ( depending on timer used ) mounting on camshaft end..... check to see if drilled hole for pin has been drilled all the way through.... this would put your timing 180 degrees off. No matter the year of your engine, George Mills & I had a heck of a head scratching episode working on a '27 Hack .
To check problem carbs simple, I take the "bad" one off and put it on a good running Model T. Takes about 40 minutes to see if the carb is bad. Also take the carb off, put gas in the bowl, set the needle and blow low pressure air in the intake side, You should see gasoline spray out the top
not exact but at least you see if you are atomizing the gas