My left back wheel had some up and down play in it so I pulled the wheel and bearing cover and removed the wheel bearing, I'm kind of new at T but each pin in the bearing has about 3/16 inch play I would assume they should have no play correct? The axel feels good as far as I can get my finger in does not seem to be worn very smooth but the sheeve looks oblong on the end how can you pull the sheeve out?
Sleeve puller we have them for sale, Bob
The Hyatt bearing rollers has some play on their pins when the bearing is out, that's not a problem. What's important is the bearing cage needs to be firm when you try to twist it. The rollers may have had 0.500" or 0.499" diameter when new, measure both ends of several rollers with a micrometer and check the roller surfaces for pitting. If no pitting a firm caged bearing with rollers measuring 0.496 - 0.497" can be used, I think.
Good used ones are available with some searching. New solid roller replacement bearings tends to break as pinion bearings - don't use them there. They may work as inner bearings in the rear axle but for outer bearings flexible original Hyatts is the best budget option. Floating hubs are the best & safest option but then we're talking serious $$: http://www.modeltford.com/item/2508SF.aspx
The hyatt tends to wear a ridge in the sleeve, that's how you determine how much wear the sleeves has. Check for pitting in the surface - If they're pitted and/or have a ridge it's best to change them. http://www.modeltford.com/item/2509BQL.aspx
You need a bearing puller tool to take the sleeves out and put new ones in - the're not expensive, so it's not worth the trouble to make one yourself: http://www.modeltford.com/item/2509SP.aspx
Here's the puller:
While you're spending a little dough for that, also invest a few bucks more and get the MTFCA axle book by Glen Chaffin. Roger is on the mark. Trying to eyeball everything isn't good enough. Measuring, and studying what you're doing, will save you money in the long run.