Well I got the pistons back in the engine except number 4. Installing the LAST rod cap on number 4, after the nuts were being run down, one rod bolt began to turn. The flat side of the bolt is not retaining itself so now I can not remove the nut to replace the bolt. For a few hours I have tried cleaning the area between the flat side of the bolt and the rod, the bolt does seem to bottom out Ok and then I placed shims of thin aluminum between the flat side of the bolt and the rod. No luck getting the bolt retained long enough to get the nut off. Before I buy a nut splitter, any other suggestions please on getting the bolt to stay on place to get the nut off?
Now I am thinking 'how am I going to get a nut splitter on the rod cap nut? Is there room? I may need to cut it off with a Demerol tool ?
Can you rotate the crank until you get a Vice-Grip on the head of the bolt?
Can you reach the upper end of the rod bolt with channel lock pliers or locking pliers?
My idea is better!
Didn't see your post when I wrote minw, Jerry
I would try a lot of ways before starting the dremel tool inside the oil pan - it doesn't feel right even if it's possible to clean up most of the iron filings afterwards.
if you have no other alternative, use a drill instead of a dremel tool. Put modeling clay around the nut and it will catch most of the filings instead of letting them get loose in the engine. progressively work up in drill size till you can drill the center of the bolt out enough to make the nut fall off. KGB
Thanks all. The idea of using a very small vice grip (minature) up on top of the number 4 rod may work. This Rod seems to be the worst area for this to happen as it is so cramped.
A magnetic tray or pad will catch the filings better than clay. After drilling or grinding, flush the area with mineral spirits to flow off any filings that get stuck to the area and the filings will stick fast to the magnetic tray. They come in all shapes and sizes and even in rubberized flexible pads that can be cut to size. Jim Patrick
I had to use a cold chisel to get the nut off the back rod after the corners got rounded over. I got lucky and no damage done to the babbitt. Because of that, I no longer will use a torque wrench on any engine bolt or nut. (I got a miss reading on 35 FP setting) Rear axle nuts, yes.
I had a silmilar problem and pulled the piston down so far that the rings came out of the cylinder and the piston cocked. I ended pulling the engine, the head and then was able to fix it. I had to break off the ring which came out.
After all that work, someone posted that I could put the other nut on the other bolt and then tap the stuck bolt upward with a hammer and punch to get it out. Actually you would only need to tap it far enough to get the bolt to turn so the flat side is against the rod. This would be easy with a 4 dip pan, but if you have 3 dips, you might need to try something else.
Thank to all for the advice
I was able to buy a miniature vice grips which was just small enough to get a grip on the top of the number 4 rod bolt. I posted pictures of the bad bolt with rounder edges