What is generally needed to rebuild older Warford transmissions? I just bought two for short money, but I'm certain they need new gaskets and seals. I was looking online and didn't immediately see anyone selling the parts needed. I hope to install one in a TT truck I bought last year that also has a Ruckstell rear end.
Thanks for any help, Chris.
Not much is needed just general mechanical knowledge. You'll have to find seals to fit and make your own gaskets. The biggest problem is one bearing is no longer available, so hopefully one of the two has a good one or better yet both are good.
What sort of seals does one use? I assume there's two; one on the front and one on the back, and that's it, correct?
Only new parts available would be bearings from your local bearing dealer. You can cut new paper gaskets from heavy paper bags. There are no " seals" in the modern sense of the word.
The only source of parts would be other used transmissions and pieces from used units.
On the positive side, a good condition unit will only need thorough cleaning ( disassembly required) and new gaskets.
When I had my TT apart I needed bearings for it's Muncie. I had no clue where to get them, so I found a bearing company and took the old ones in. They measured them and were easily able to provide replacement bearings. Not too costly either, but that was 10 or 12 years ago.
Here's a tip for you while you have it apart:
Since the shifter rods on top have no seals they tend to leak oil. Ed Archer gave me the idea of how to prevent this mess.
Enlarge the holes slightly near the outside and install a piece of copper tubing with a cap on the end that fits over the rods. I counterbored mine and glued in tubing connecting both shifters. No more Leaks!
Thanks Again Ed...
If you search "Warford Bearings MTFCA" on google there are folks who have found and listed all the modern equivalent bearings, they're all available.. The one funky one that is tapered on the inside and outside races isn't replaceable - but you can turn down the input shaft to a cylinder instead of a taper and there is a bearing that fits the outer taper and will accept the input shaft. Honestly, unless one or more of the bearings is really awful, I would take it all apart, clean it really well, pack the bearings with fresh grease, and then put it back together. Frank Harris has posted about how to adjust the lower shaft with the shims so that the teeth all mesh properly. I haven't taken the time to do it yet but I'm gonna do the copper tubing fix also. I've seen several other folks who've done the same.
if you cant find a good one ,you can get this one
Does someone has a picture of the spring that is used at the bottom of the lever? Mine is broken and I don't know exactly how it is mounted.