1926 TuDor Headliner

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: 1926 TuDor Headliner
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Zahorik on Friday, May 02, 2014 - 07:48 pm:

My 1926 TuDor has five bows that cross the top of the car.

Yet my old headliner only has 3 lasting strips for stapling to the bows.

One that would be stapled to the first, second and fourth bows. Should there be 5 lasting strips?
Thanks
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Saturday, May 03, 2014 - 12:47 am:

Mike,
Nope, standard arrangement--the bows aren't there for the headliner, but to hold up the top! So, headliner only uses the ones needed to make it look great.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Zahorik on Saturday, May 03, 2014 - 08:33 am:

Thank you
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Erfert on Saturday, May 03, 2014 - 01:10 pm:

Mike, could you show some photos of the front header so I can figure out if I am missing something on my 24 Tudor. I think I just have to do some adjusting to make it fit but don't really know for sure.
Great photos and just in time too.
Dick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ken bechtel on Saturday, May 03, 2014 - 06:33 pm:

Richard! this is my 24 tudor with the original wood before I replaced it. Kenroof wood


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Zahorik on Saturday, May 03, 2014 - 08:59 pm:

Richard, I think you are referring to the front rim board. I which I know what the exact terminology is, but....
Here is a picture of the board that I made. The top of the board has two dadoes in it. The shallow one receives the top slats and the deeper one gets the headliner.

The bottom of the board has the half lap to fit into the side rim board and a small dado to fit against the lip of the car body.

This board is also bent about 3/4" over it's four foot length. I steam bent it.
Hope this is what you were looking for.
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Erfert on Monday, May 05, 2014 - 12:29 am:

Mike and Ken, thank you for the photos I think what I am looking for is a photo of the wood that is just over the window and goes from the windshield posts to the header. There are four 1 1/2" screws in the board to the header which draws it tight to rail. My rail wood is dry rotted at the ends and I don't want to replace the whole piece. I have doweled in new wood for now.
Dick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Erfert on Monday, May 05, 2014 - 11:48 am:

Mike, are you using bolts instead of screws? Does your visor bolt on to the roof rail? Seems like a good idea to me. I may not have described my problem correctly as it looks like the windshield header is the one that has the ends at the pillar dry rotted, the photo you have is the front rail and the 3/4" bend is the side rail.
Dick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Zahorik on Monday, May 05, 2014 - 01:23 pm:

Are you talking about the side board? This one?

This board had (not anymore) one carriage bolt that comes in from the bottom lip near the windshield (where the 3" clamp is) and screwed into a special nut. Then there are three screws that go through the top of the door sill into the side board. There are three screws that go through the window top and one at the rear end of side board. I have changed all the screws to flat head 1/4x20 machine screws. A hex head at the front, where the carriage bolt was, brass slotted flat heads above the door, hex socket screws in the window channel. I counter sunk the side board for 1/4x20 T-nuts.
The visor does bolt to the posts. You can kinda see the holes in the picture. They are 10-32 brass screws.
Does this help. Ask again if not.
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Zahorik on Monday, May 05, 2014 - 03:38 pm:

Here's some pictures of the my test side pieces that I made from 2x6's.


Hope this helps.
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Erfert on Monday, May 05, 2014 - 06:11 pm:

Mike, thank you for the pictures, I am working from a wood kit from someplace back East and no directions. The original wood was there but not complete so playing it by ear. I think I have to do some modification to the roof rail to get it about a good 3/8" lower because the top slats that sit on the header are 3/8" lower then the top of the rail and a mark on the sheet metal shows that much under it.Roof rail & HeaderRoof rail


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Zahorik on Monday, May 05, 2014 - 07:36 pm:

Richard, I'm no expert on this and this is my first top. Your car looks a little different than mine, is it a four door? I notice that there is no metal lip that extends over the windshield. Your front rim board also looks rather thick and there is a different way to attach the headliner.

I suppose that you could reduce the space where the slats are applied by installing a shim board over the old wood so that the slats are flush with the rim board. If you cut the rim board down, you have to deal with the other boards being too thick.
Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Erfert on Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 05:46 pm:

Mike, I may try a combination of both of your ideas but thank you for the information. I just looked at a 26 that is having the glass replaced and there is a big difference in the 24 V 26 in front. I will be taking out the windshield for sand blasting and painting before I put in new glass, I just want the header to stay together while I am doing it. There are four wood screws that will hold the Rail to the header. The headliner and upholstery do get tacked on the lower step. Thank you again for the help.
Dick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Zahorik on Tuesday, May 06, 2014 - 06:27 pm:

Yes, there is a difference after 1925. Would be interested as your project progresses. I'm doing a little paint work while the top is off. I hope to get the top wood on next week and then maybe the headliner.
Richard Good luck

Mike


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