Never having played with a ruxtell before, my wife tells me that the selector is getting a bit floppy, in basic terms its has a fair amount of play in the forward/backward directions.
I thought it would simply be the linkages or pins allowing that amount of movement, but it seems to be located on the L arm sitting on top of the diff where all of the play emanates from... any ideas on how this can be corrected ... again l have never played with a ruxtell before this.
So a little info here will go a long way to help.
You can buy both new housings and new shafts from Glen Chaffin. 951-735-4791
David, before I knew about Chaffins new parts, I made the following repair.
On the early shifter housings, the housing is too thin to bore out to take a bushing, so I used an adjustable reamer to get the hole back into round. To repair the worn L arm I welded a piece of stock to the arm so that I had a T shaped piece with the selector rod eye piece forming the upright of the T. Then I chucked the worn section of the arm in the lathe and turned down the welded on piece until it ran trully.
Next step was to weld up the worn section of the L arm. Once you have enough weld to machine, the welded on piece is chucked in the lathe and the worn/welded section can be turned for a custom fit to your reamed housing. It took some time, but at the time it was well worth the effort.
The dollars you spend on new parts may be more economical if you have to pay a machinist/welder.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
I'm at the point with my Ruckstell rebuild that I need to address just this issue. The shift housing is expensive. I think I'll bore the hole oversize and bush it. Then turn and sleeve the L arm to fit.
Thank you for those comments, mine does not seem to have any side to side movement within the housing top, it just has a big rotation, more than l would have expected....OK how does this work for a summary .. if it was meant to rotate say 90 degrees, mine rotates about 130 degrees... but still works !!! it may not be that much but for the example that'll probably do to give an indication of how much play/movement is there .. the cause of my stick moving forward and backward, not staying relatively stiff in one spot.... bloody annoying ..
Why not just machine a new shaft with a larger dimension where it passes through the housing?? That's what I do.
You can also convert the shift lock to a bottom shift -- which I've done for a couple speedster Ruckstells.
They are a simple unit, other than the hole wearing bigger or cracks there isn't much that can go wrong.
looks like more work for David .. bottom shift ?? the linkage comes from the bottom instead of the top ??