For those of you who I have pestered relentlessly for the last year or so, I finally got around to doing something about adding 'SEE ME...HEED ME' stop lights, 4-ways, and turn signals!
I made up drawings for doing it 8-ways to Sunday, one even using octal bases based on vacuum tubes but using 6-volt octal base relays instead...but then although it worked, there would be tons of work to get it all in harmony. That design also uses aircraft switches from the 20's to be even more era correct, but that's a little too far and I just happen to have a big stash box of those switches that I always said I'd use some day...complete with their bayonet style jeweled idiot lights.
At the end of the day for the first one (I have about 6 to do) I just went with a Signal Stat 900, and Model A Commercial Tail 'Duo Light' tail lamps using Model A Commercial lamp irons.
Still have a bunch more wiring to do, and think I found why so many folks seem to have difficulty with Signal Stats (other than they are plug ugly)...but I'll save that for the summary when project is done.
Here are some pix on how the tail end came out...I'll dump the original drum style Model T stop lamp/license plate bracket once I make up a new bracket (that didn't make it on the list today)
I put 1129 lamps in BOTH sides of each teacup lamp housing to start out with simply because the space is so much more than the 27 drum style of Duo Light. That's a bunch of lamp/watt/amp...probably too much...but I have lots of other lamp combinations to try once I get the rest of the wiring done.
I made up looms...Ken K. was about right on the money on what looms up easy
What are the brackets that hold the lights and where did you get them. Nice!
If they'll fit, you will get a lot more light with a lot less current draw, with LED lights. Check them out!
He says in the post above that he used model A commercial tail light brackets.
The were used on pick ups.
George, I like those lamp irons, I may have to look for a set for my pickup.
Mac's calls them Model A Commercial Brackets and there are two styles. The other would hang from the frame rails vertical down like an upside down 'Y'. I wanted out over the fenders...
I think the style that I show are really off of the Model B, but hey, Mac's says otherwise and they have them
Like most other things from catalogs...they had to be drilled out for the lamp bolts to fit right. Not complaining, I'm use to modifying 'as received' and accept the finish work, but some expect things to fit right out of the box so just sayin'.
For those interested, here's a pic of the bracket all by by itself...
I really like the brackets and the lamps themselves, I just wish there were some brass covers instead of the chrome. Do such things exist somewhere?
some original model a light bezels where nickle plated brass. you will see them with some of the nickel worn off at swap meets
The 6V LED bulb link does not work on the site you posted. Do you have any details on a 6V direct replacement LED automotive bulb?
Jim, I just tried it and it came right up. Dave
I could not get link to work either. Got to High Speed Motors OK but link to bulb didn't work. Try the above site.
All done, now have brakes/turns/4ways that to me doesn't look too obnoxious. Also installed FP brake switch, which as usual went in smooth and didn't need to be tweaked to work.
For the front, I hid the beehives up in the wheel well, and when done swapped the lamps out for forward facing amber superbrightleds.
The back was as above and they stayed filament lamps. The glass is too thick and too red for 3 or 6 CP lower lamps to have more than a soft glow. The LED had the right brightness approach, but now there was not enough resistance/impedance to make the signal stat work so the answer will be 12-15CP lamps when I get them.
The thought to be easiest part of the project turned out to be the hardest. (Funny how that works). To keep with my 'era appropriate' appearance...I decided to make up my own wire looms, complete with branches that changed size etc. I also decided to run dedicated grounds for all of the new lamps and take them back to a bus bar I had previously added at the ground strap location. My hands were sore, my fingers numb, and the bituminous coating on the loom really made for sticky fingers. Looks nice now that done, but probably have 8-10 hours into it.
The storm before the calm and tying up of the looms...but everything was color coded tracer wire, or tagged if solid wire.
Pretty much exactly what I did with my '23 Touring with 2 exceptions. First is I mounted the Model A lamps on the spare tire carrier and second I couldn't stand the look of the 900 switch and went with Snyder's # T-SIGN-CM switch. I also used the larger bulbs, (1129?) in both sockets and the Fun Projects stop light switch kit. A trailer lamp wiring kit I had laying around was also used. No LED's though. I used the amber acorn lamps instead. I hate to spoil your dreams of a safer T but don't drop your vigilance when driving because (my experience) it doesn't make the chimps that talk riding behind you act any differently. You're still in their way.
I can't find it on Snyder's site, but it shows nicely on Lang's.
Which leads to another question...for the life of me, I can't figure out the posting times...you & I are in the same time zone, aren't we? NH & NJ...
How can my response come before your post???
Am is before pm.
Actually I think they both carry it but I was looking at their 2014 catalog.
I came across these at Snyders, they say 19-23 for the application, but have been converted to dual filament so i used them as my tail/brakes. Very low key and period correct looking but with the safety of having brake lights.
Having brake lights is a great idea, but for my money I'd rather have some turn signals. I don't always get a chance to throw out a hand signal, and you know how futile that can be anyway. I'm interested in how the turn signal part of this works. Perhaps a wiring diagram? I bet there's a business opportunity here for "period correct" signal/brake lights.
Send me a PM and I'll reply with a wiring diagram that I made up to cover the stop lights and the turn signals that uses a 7-wire Signal Stat unit.
This is what I did for my T
I have a 12 volt battery that I use when crank starting so it was easy to add 12 volt LED trailer lights from Harbor freight and a simple switch assembly from Lang's
The total cost was about $40
I mounted thwm on the sign so there no holes were added to the body.
I am now not concerned when someone is following me too close.
The little lights on the bottom are only used once in a while and came from a Bike shop