I have the engine and floorboards out. Took some doing to get the tank straps to unhook.
Can the improved car gas tank really be taken out without removing the instrument panel? The shop manual says so, but mine doesn't clear the fuel outlet from the firewall without the tank backing hard into the instrument panel.
I'm going to take the panel off anyway, but just wondering...
You have to take off the sediment bowl. The tank should then drop out easily, regardless of the body type. The dash does not have to be removed.
Yes You can do it with out removing the dash panel. The switch panel should be removed. I just take it loose from the dash and let it hang out the hole, out of the way I also remove the steering column clamp. The sediment bowl and overflow pipes need removed. Also the straps that you already have removed. Then the tank will just fall out. Well maybe not fall out... But you should be able to rotate the rear of the tank down and out. Sometimes it will rub hard on the dash panel lip at the bottom of the dash. You can just pry or pull on the dash a little to get it to "fall out"
Also removing the screws on each side of the dash will allow it to easily give a little for the bit of clearance.
I have never been able to remove a '26 gas tank without removing the instrument panel. A '27, yes, but not a '26.
I had forgotten to mention that the sediment bowl, overflow pipe, ign switch panel and steering column clamp were also previously removed.
Donnie, I'll try rotating the rear of the tank first, not sure I tried that enough. I'd like to see the tank come out before removing the dash panel.
Planning on ordering the repo cardboard gas tank pad as it looks like my car has very little of the original there to seal at the firewall. Any experience out there with this part? Looks like it might leave even less room to work the outlet out of an already tight space.
When I swapped out the tank on my 26 touring, I came up with whole bunch of brand new cuss words! I had removed the switch plate and loosened all the dash bolts, unbolted the steering column, etc. The job sounded so easy in the book... But took about 3 hours. Not easy.
My '27 came out in 45 minutes... but the man showing me how to do it told me what tools I needed and showed me what screws to loosen not easy but not terribly difficult cleaned out the tank epoxy based sealer put back in the next Saturday it was harder to hold up and get the straps in than it was to take out.
Stay at it, that tank will come out. Just remember to reverse the same movements to install as to remove
The repo cardboard is well made, and fit is fine. Use the cardboard if your firewall does not have the 4 small holes for securing the fabric anti squeak strap rivets, those are for the '26 model year.
'27 model year repro cardboard anti squeak
Im not sure if you can take out the dash panel without removing the tank first. I know on my 27 touring that it was a tight fit to rotate the dash into place even with the tank out. I had the steering column in the way for removing the dash panel. It came out without forcing it, but there is a certain way it must be rotated into place. I have taken out several of the gas tanks. I have always held them up against the top of the cowl and then rotated the rear of the tank down. Almost always it will hit fairly hard on the lip at the bottom of the dash. With the steering column bracket removed you should be able to pry the bottom lip out some and the gas tank will come out. The hardest part for me is the removal of the straps and the removal of the steering column brackets bolts. I do not think the cardboard liner will give you much trouble going back in... After everything is loose I useally can get the tank out in a couple minutes. I should be faster, but I do not bend as well as I used to....... good luck
The dash will have to bend out an awful lot to release the tank so I'm going to try to remove the dash first. Have 5 of 7 screws out, 2 are rusty and resisting. I don't think they are correct. Are the correct style available from vendors?
It's out! I loosened the dash screws so it had a little "give" to it, but even then the tank really scrapes hard to get out.
You're right Donnie, the dash isn't all that easy to remove. The rear and upper windshield stanchion bolts need to be removed on one side which permits the dash to move upward then forward then downward and out.
I think I'm seeing original body paint behind where the cardboard gas tank pad used to be. Looks like it must have been Gunmetal Blue, really dark but not black really.
There were some surprises clanking around inside the tank when I moved it. I guess that light bulb wasn't powered up when it broke inside the tank -otherwise there wouldn't have been a gas tank to pull out of my car today...
This bit is a flat die cast looking piece with the reference T-1313 cast in it. Was that a gas cap? There are two other chunks with threads on them that look like they used to be part of a gas cap.
The suppliers sell the correct dash screws. They should be straight slot and no Phillips heads. Not for sure but the T-1313 part may be the splash baffle in the gas cap.
Be sure to disconnect the battery before you remove the switch plate and tank. You don't want any sparks in that area!
No worries Norman, battery is long dead and wiring is out. Getting her ready for full restoration.