Loose lug bolts wire wheel

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Loose lug bolts wire wheel
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gerald Hansen on Thursday, May 08, 2014 - 09:54 pm:

Getting ready to reinstall safety hubs, brake drum and wheel hub on a Ruckstell rear. Hey surprise this evening every lug bolt on both sides are loose (wiggle). Don't turn tried a couple hits with brass hammer they stay in place. Have no idea why loose acorn nuts are checked and kept tight.

Don't know at this time how I'm going to repair. I doubt if they will turn when tighten or loosen, but if one would with acorn nuts it would be project. My first thought was maybe welding a dimple on the edge of the lug nut, keeps the heat down and enough to hit the hub to keep it from turning.

New one to me never expected it. Tomorrow is another day in T land

Matter of fact when I pulled the right side axle with a puller it blew the cotter key hole out, think this may have been one of the soft earlier replacements I bought a while back


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 12:00 am:

Re the cotter pin hole. I have had the same thing happen with original Ford axles. I ground most of the point off the bolt in my hub puller because it would push the center in. When it happened I just ran an 1/8" drill through the hole to clean it up. Hope you can fix yours the same way.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 06:14 am:

Gerald, the lug bolts for the wire wheels are supposed to be swedged in place in the hub.
Swedging is done with this tool available from the vendors in a press, you need lots of tons to deform the bolt enough to keep it in place:http://www.modeltford.com/item/2883T.aspx

When I changed lug bolts on a front hub the bolts fit good in the hole and I was in a hurry, didn't want to drive over to my friends shop and his press (doubt it's even strong enough) so I welded a couple of stitches to each bolt on the inner side of the hub. Weld stitches can be seen on a front hub if looking hard enough, but not inside the rear drum :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Hjortnaes, Men Falls, WI on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 08:22 am:

Roger

I bought that toy from one of the vendors, but the
hole inside was smaller than the bolts. Would have destroyed the threads on my bolts if I used it. I ended up welding the bolts to the brake drum. Makes me think there was a bad batch that were made too small.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 01:05 pm:

There has been a problem with reproduction lug nuts for the Model A Ford. Original nuts have no threads for the first 1/4 inch or so because the studs aren't threaded full depth to the head of the stud. Simple cure is to chuck them in a lathe and bore out to the thread depth for a short distance, then the nut seats on the wheel, not on the stud.
Not understanding the actual problem, vendors sell stainless beveled washers to go between the wheel and the nut, their theory that the holes in the wheels have wallowed out, causing the problem--not so!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Clayton Swanson on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 01:17 pm:

david d is rite, i had to put a die on the stud, upside down so it will cut all the way to the hub, to get another couple threads so the nuts will tighten up


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 05:32 pm:

Clayton, next time you have some of the nuts off, put them in a lathe and take off the threads for a 1/4" or more (inside the nut, don't remove the outside tapered area. If you don't have a lathe, maybe you have a buddy with one--or (haven't tried it, but should work) use a Dremel tool with to grind the metal away. Then you can be certain the nut is tightening against the wheel.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gerald Hansen on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 08:44 pm:

Checked the safety hub out today not a lot of meat (.200) to hold a serrated part of a lug bolt. The bolts are installed on receipt of the hub. Used an original ford wire hub and had to push the swedged lug bolts out of it at the time, it was a snug not a press fit.
Checked my wheels no damage from being loose, I impact the axle nut and the lug nuts. Nothing showed any indication of movement other than the bolts wiggled in the safety hub.
Kind of interesting new one on me. Came to the conclusion of welding the heads of the bolts on the safety hub flange using the T hub for a heat sink kind of leery of warpage. I may have a machine shop relocate the holes in the T hub for a press fit or maybe have Snyder's check the size of the hole and buy new hubs
My main concern of is if one of the lug bolts spins inside the hub I will be in big trouble because of the acorn nuts, don't know how I would get the hub and drum off and it is something I'm not to interested in learning


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Saturday, May 10, 2014 - 12:17 am:

It's been quite a while since I had one apart, but I seem to remember a tang that keeps the lug from turning.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Clayton Swanson on Saturday, May 10, 2014 - 09:22 am:

A's have a tang, but i've never had a T hub apart.


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