Any Ideas? I have a 6 volt ingnition, 009 Bosch Dist with points, the Coil is a 12 volt. They say it's the same had an internal Resister but I I use it for 12 volt it says in the Coil to use an External Resister !
Ok now this Coil gets very Hit to the Touch, and I'm thinking this is shutting down my ignition on long tours . Engine us running cool new radiator. I have the coil mounted on the radiator. Rod ( rad to fire wall support). And insulated in black tape . Even after a 4 mike run tonight I parked the TT and could burn my fingers in the coil . I could mt this on the firewall , I've seen them mounted to the front of the Engine. At times. But I'm really thinking about replacing the coil a new one, the points and condenser as well and go from there. And carry these as spare parts in the tours Or place in a electronic ignition. Symptoms are driving along. After awhile ? Then the engine just shuts off, let it cool kick the tires and it starts again. Thanks for any opinions. Se
I'm probably nuts but I'll give this a shot. 1: The coil should never get hot. Something's wrong. 2: A 6 volt system needs a 6 volt coil. 3: If the coil has an internal resistor it'll be marked on the coil. 4: If there is no internal resistor you need an external one. 5: The coil and the capacitor are a matched set. That is a certain coil will require a certain condenser. 6: Get it off the radiator. Coils are usually mounted on the engine block or fire wall. 7: Yes the coil's overheating and quitting. It cools down and you can re-start. 8: Be sure the coil connections are correct. There's a plus (from the battery or resistor) and a minus (goes to the points wire on the distributor). 9: Model T batteries are negative ground. Make sure the car's battery is properly installed. Take your time and check all of the above and replace any thing that's needed and for cryn' out loud slow down with your typing!
The Coil was sold by Snyders, states it's a 12 volt or 6 volt says on the Coil if you use 12 volt use and external Resistor and they say the 009 dust is either 12 or 6 volt there's only one type of points and condenser for a 009. I'll do done serious changes has to be not right
The I phone sucks all words are not what I typed
Steve - I try never to criticize as we all (especially me) make "boo-boo's, but as Charlie suggested, please type a bit more carefully and proof read. We're having trouble understanding,....."the 009 dust is either 12 or 6 volt" means nothing to me, and incomplete sentences run together with no punctuation are hard to interpret.
Aaaah, that explains it Steve. Typing on a cell phone is tough,....I don't even try to do it,.......harold
The disturbutor doesn't care what voltage.
Here's where I mounted the coil 17 years ago, and it hasn't been off since.
Not sure where those coils are made Steve but they burn out pretty fast. I think they are just made poorly. You ought to search swap meets or eBay for an original, German made Bosch coil, or a USA made 6 volt coil for any application.
I couldn't tell (read) whether you put the resistor in your ignition circuit. ???? Of course the coil will overheat on 12V! That resister needs to be there or the coil will fail. It's already failed since there's no thermal protection in it and it's cutting out when it gets hot. That's the ends of a wire separating and braking contact.
Steve, I think you just need an external resister. Snyders made sure I knew that (which I already did)when I just bought one last week for my Model A.
You should measure the voltage at the + coil terminal with the engine running to determine if you really have only 6 volts there.
You could be placing a higher AC Mag voltage there.
The directions should say that is a 6 Volt coil that can be used with 12 Volts, if the proper resistor is placed in series with the + coil wire.
I have seen several 6 Volt coils running on 6 Volts and mounted like this and they never got hot to the touch.
I'll get a resistor a German coil 6volt My coil is mounted where lots are above the engine on the center support rod. Not on. the radiator You guys got it. It needs a resistor. Tell the dang suppliers to do their home work. And pay my towing and supply us with quality parts
I mount my coils this way, never any problem's.
Before going too far, I would try another coil. Bought a Model A once that would run great and then shut off. Got a good deal because the owner was frustrated having replaced condenser, points, cap, rotor, carburetor and who knows what else. They even dug into the popout switch! First time I drove. it ran like a top. Second time out, the A turned off like a light bulb after a 20 minute drive. I was looking for some sort of vapor lock, and just bumped the coil and burned my arm. Bought a new coil and never had a problem. The coil was fried and shorting out when hot!.
Use a 6volt coil and no resistor. Check at Tractor Supply in Auburn and get a spare for just in case. John
The purpose of the resistor is to increase point life by cutting down the voltage through the coil. When cold it allows full voltage through itself for starting. As it heats up resistance increases lowering the voltage. Less power is needed for running. Don't run without one. You'll cook the points in no time.
This may not apply (and then again it might). The Ford V8 ran a 4 volt coil!! They had a wire would ballast resistor. The basic philosophy as I understood was as follows. When you flipped on the switch and cranked, the resistor was cold and put a higher voltage to the ignition the give a hotter spark to help compensate for the voltage drop caused by the big draw of the starter. Once it fired up the resistor got hot (they actually glow red) and reduced the voltage to 4 volts. I believe Ford continued this right up to '56 and the 12 volt cars.
With the 12 volt system they continued with the resistor BUT now they added a connection to the starter solenoid that put 12 volts to the ignition during cranking and used the resistor when it was running.
SO this "6 volt" coil may actually be a 4 volt coil and need a resistor to work best!!
I'm pretty sure Les that the coil you're talking about had a 6 volt rating as that was the full voltage of the car. A 6 volt coil with a resistor in the circuit would run at less than 6 when heated up. Why not 4 or even 3 volts? It still would have said 6 on it or possibly Ford from this year to that year. (1940 to 52 for instance). Again, the resistor is for point life. The coil may last longer with one but that's not the actual purpose.
My coil is mounted like in the picture above ,Bob McDonalds, I'll place the new 6 volt coil in this week , I think we got it folks .
Always much thanks here. I never drove it long enough for it to act up, now it's Tour season. and my 2nd Completed Tour, in a '25 TT , with a passenger, we run for about an hour in between parks ,and up to 125 miles . "It's a Parade as soon as I leave my Driveway"
Has anyone had problems with the Made in China coils that gurgle when you shake them?
Seems like I read someplace that there was a problem with those coils.
I just went through this with a 63 Thunderbird. Car would run great for 20-30 minuets and then performance would worsen until the car quit. The coil would be hot to the touch.
After trying ALMOST everything, someone got the bright idea to replace the NEW ignition condenser with a different one. Car runs great and the coil stays cool.
Just my 2 cents
Bill, I have posted this several times on here, condensers can and will cause all kinds of trouble. I have seen them cause problems that seem like fuel starvation/carburetion issues, electrical-ignition/heat related issues and others. I have even had a new Ford type condenser that worked great on a '71 F250, but wouldn't work on a '73 Maverick, but the one on the Maverick worked great on the truck. A friend of mine back in the '70's had a '69 Pontiac that would run about three or four miles and would just die. He tried everything that he could think of, finally changed out the "new" condenser, that fixed it. I learned about 45 years ago that although something is NEW, doesn't mean it is GOOD! Dave
What I learned in New Hampshire: 98 % of all carburetor problems are electrical in nature.