TT not running; where to look

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: TT not running; where to look
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bartol on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 12:05 am:

Ok, "Hill-Billie", my TT truck, is acting up. I started it up the other day and it actually ran great (which may have been an omen). The next day, it started right up, but ran like crap. It several times going down the road and misfired once, blowing up the muffler. I got it home and parked it and it seemed ok. Today, I cannot get it to fire. So, I swapped the coils out with a freshly rebuilt set (nope), took the timer cap apart and cleaned it completely (nope), cleaned all the plugs and their wire ends (nope). So, assuming I do not have spark at the plugs, what would you suggest? I could hear one coil buzz and when I felt the manifold, it was warm at #2 (from the front of the engine), but the rest didn't seem to be. Where shall I go next?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 12:53 am:

I think I'd be looking at all the electrical connections to be sure they're tight and in the coil box for "tracks" next.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 12:55 am:

The backfire is a possible hint that the ignition system is cutting out. This could be a bad ignition switch. Is it a starter car or do you have a battery to power the ignition? If so turn the ignition switch on to batt and slowly crank the engine by hand. You should hear each of the 4 coils firing. It'll take 2 complete revolutions of the crank to do this. If that's OK and you're working alone pull the plugs re-connect the plug wires and with the plugs laying on the block again hand crank the eng with the ign. on batt. Look for spark at each plug. Keep us posted. You have something wrong in the system.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Clipner-Los Angeles on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 03:36 am:

I had trouble keeping mine in time and starting trouble, acted like yours Discovered sparl control lever the sparl rod conned to had too much play. the hole that the pin goes into was all woggled out. had to drill out to next size larger and solved the problem .


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Anthonie Boer on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 07:12 am:

Chris ; are you sure that the timer roller spring is not broken ?
Toon
1632R


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By G.R.Cheshire on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 07:40 am:

My 27 roadster did the same ting the problem was in the ignition switch there several threads about ignition switches distorting mufflers when they cut out then back on here is one
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/378851.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bartol on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 12:19 pm:

I checked the roller spring and it's intact (I have to push the roller down to get the cap in place). I changed the cap and left the old roller in place and with the key on battery, I cranked by hand and have spark on only 2 cylinders (#2 from the front and #4). I started to wonder if I put the wires on wrong, but the order seems ok (red lower left, black upper left, blue upper right, green lower right). I checked all the connections at the molex block and they're ok; I had cleaned the coil post ends last year too.

This is a 26-ish TT with a starter and 12 volt battery. The old roller looks ok (one third of the width is shiny from rolling, but doesn't look uneven).

I reached into the coil box and bent the prongs at the base and firewall out to see if that would help, but no. If # 1 and # 3 aren't firing, the battery switch wouldn't be suspicious, correct?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 12:56 pm:

Since you're getting fire on #2 & #4 I doubt it's a power source (switch) problem, although I wouldn't rule it out altogether. It could be intermittent, but if it was it's unlikely the same two plugs would always be the ones that don't fire.

Since the coils are good by definition and the timer has been checked I'd be looking for a problem in the coil box itself.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 01:01 pm:

One other thing you might try, even though you are using freshly rebuilt coils. Take the number 4 coil out, move the each of other three one space to the right, then put the coil you took out in the number 1 position. Now try the hand cranking test again. If the problem moves to #2 & #4, you've found what's wrong.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Justin in South Africa on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 01:01 pm:

Hi Chris,

Have you swapped the coils around to see if the coils buzz in different positions? My guess is it will still spark on #2 and #4...

I also think its in the coil box... Can you check for continuity in the wires running from the coil box to timer itself? This should help you narrow down the problem.

Hope this helps,
Justin


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bartol on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 03:28 pm:

Hill-Billie is alive! I put new coils in as I said and 1 and 3 did nothing. I took them out, bent the copper terminals and put them in a different order. 1 and 3 fired, but not 2 and 4 this time. I pulled the new coils out, bent the terminals again and put my old coils in. This time, all four sparked. I started him up and he's running again.

What did I find? Well, not 100% sure, but bending the contacts in the coil box would seem to be the common denominator. Also, I pulled the switch apart after it was running and bent the contacts in there as well as I could feel it was loose and would cut out if you pressed the key.

So, old coils were good, but contacts in the coil box were not. I left the resurfaced roller timer cap on and will get the old one done over, too. On the bright side, I know all my wire ends are clean now!

Thanks for the help, Chris.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bartol on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 03:31 pm:

Let me add to this a bit. I guess I would say the contact points on the rebuilt coils were too ground down on one or two and weren't touching the coil box contacts. Moving them around may have let two work and two not (only a guess; I'm not that smart!).

How does one build up the old solder that was on the coil contact points originally?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 03:48 pm:

One thing I hope you found out - It's necessary to be just a little more stubborn than the truck! :-)

Glad you're back up and running.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bartol on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 07:07 pm:

Well, the truck is running well again, and just in time for its first car accident! Yep, I took it for a run up to the gas station and pulled in behind a Honda or some other stupid "tricked-out" hatchback at the pump just as he throws it in reverse to back out!!! He hit straight between the fenders, so no damage to me, but I left him a gift; my crank handle scratched and dented his sweet little plastic bumper. Ooopsie; I guess we shouldn't back out of a gas station, should we?!


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