Have there been many failures with part 2596, drive shaft inner sleeve, with any of your rebuilds? I rebuilt the driveline in 2010 and put about 1000 miles on it. I was getting a lot of growling when decelerating in high, and discovered (upon the advice of veterans)that I had 3/8" endplay in the driveline.
I took off the rear end and tore the torque tube apart this weekend only to find the Hyatt bearing still in place, but totally apart; the driveline deeply scored, and the sleeve nowhere to be found except in pieces at the bottom of the differential. Fortunately, the cotter pin was holding the pinion gear in place and it looks like I caught the problem before any damage was done. One of the local veterans said that this is an inferior product compared to the original and recommended the modern drive shaft bearing. Please advise. Thanks.
- JIm Kelsey
Jim, I've seen a lot of the original sleeves bad in the drive shafts I've torn down. I run the Fun Projects Modern Pinion bearing in my cars. Sounds like the veterans gave you some good advice.
I just rebuilt my friends rear axle Saturday for this same reason. We have no history as to the origin of the sleeve whether it is original or repop, but the lower half was shattered and running around in the rearend. I suspect it started at the keyway notch and grew from there. What a mess.
The casualties were the ring & pinion, pinion spool, bearing and sleeve. We also found a broken dowel pin used to locate the u-joint on the driveshaft. Another no-no All is good now.
No more sleeves for me. Here's another vote for the Fun Projects replacement.
The Fun Projects pinion bearing replacement kit is a real improvement over the original setup. I would recommend using one. I have it two of my cars and its easy to install and works just fine.
The last rear end I did, the sleeve was blown apart and I have another on the shelf that is cracked. Both as far as I know were originals.
did you guys have to do any machining to the drive shaft or didit go on as easily as the catalog says?
Only thing I do for the Fun Project modern bearing set up is the grind out the weld spud and junk inside the torque tube, otherwise you will hear a clacking sound as the new collar that holds the modern bearing in place, revolves with the driveshaft and hitting that junk.
Typical metal junk in the weld joint of the torque tube.
Cleaned up and ready.
The only good reproduction 2596 is from Bob Bergstadt. I have a fair supply of NOS sleeves for my own use, and have never had a problem with them.
I have only taken apart two original driveshafts. Both looked good from the outside and turned OK with minimal play at the pinion end, but both turned out to be in the early stages of self destruction. Hyatts are good at the wheels but the load at the pinion bearing seems to be higher so there's a slim chance finding Hyatts good enough to reuse - and the new solid roller replacements are no good in that application. Fun projects for me unless it's for a limited use application like a tractor conversion or museum vehicle.
Fun Projects bearing kit is the way to go. Purchase it directly from them for excellent service and answers to any questions you may have. Just allow more than 2 minutes if you talk to John. He likes to provide complete and correct answers and descriptions.
Original set up is usually worn beyond use.
Note the crack beginning to propagate.
Unknown original miles, but in no way ready to begin active modern touring at road speeds.
Fun Projects replacement made.
This was an early lesson for me in the world of Ts.
The fun and novelty of drive-shaft rebuilding rapidly wears off.
Fun Projects taper-roller alternative works fine.
I have rebuilt one of each. Used fun projects bearing assembly and also used an original set up for another rear axel assembly. I found an NOS sleeve so I used it with some spare good parts to make spare rear axel I will never need.
I've never had problems with the original set up, but I'm sure the Fun Projects set up is better. The FP set up is pretty much hidden, as I understand, which makes it popular. My question is: "why is there no hue and cry from the purists as there is from them about some other replacements?"
Because they know it's better.
Agree with you Tom, its really hidden inside the pumpkin, no one knows.
And as Steve posts, It's better, because its very easy to install, compared to original stock design, even if one could find NOS parts,... for the hobbyist, simple tool equipped home garage owner,... like me.
Heck, even Henry, 5 months after he stopped production on his T, used taper roller bearings in his next improvement to transportation.
An original sleeve is easy to tell. It has the Ford script stamped on the end of the sleeve. I've been running original sleeves all of my adult life, and have never had a problem.
Larry - I have what looks like an original sleeve that I removed from a rear end being rebuilt, and it's marked HYATT, not Ford. Could this be an original also, or maybe a period replacement?
BTW, it has a small crack starting from the keyway notch.
Hyatt was an OEM supplier to Ford. It is almost certainly real.
I have seen Hyatt sleeves too. The Hyatt was stamped into the sleeve down at the end where the bearing doesn't ride.
What do you guys think of this bearing produced by Texas T Parts?
It may be just fine but I'd get the non-adjustable pinion bearing kit from Fun Projects/John Regan. Tried, true, works. Never heard anything bad about the Fun Project kit and similar in price. Minor inconvenience of a refundable core charge but that's trivial in my world.