My lesson learned today -rust removal

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: My lesson learned today -rust removal
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 04:44 pm:

I read the many stories on using electrolysis, 3 table spoons of Baking Soda per gallon of water and a pinch of salt.

Found the baking soda at Walmart and put 8 gallons of water in a tub

placed rusty license plates on the bottom, put two bricks in and put a large tin pan close to the rusty plates supported over the bricks.

Found a 12 volt battery charger WOULD NOT start the process on 12 volt 6 amp until i switched it to 55 amps for starting a car. Then it quickly began bubbling ! Then I was able to switch it back to 12 volt 6 amp.

Look at the plates and sacrificial pan after 2 hours ? Also I bought molasses deer feed at a farm store hopefully it will work. They also had cane molasses which I did not think would work for rust removal. Thanks for the forum \


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Wolf on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 04:49 pm:

David; That picture is reversed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 05:01 pm:

Electrolysis works fine, but just by line of sight. You may have to hang one plate at the time from a plank laying over the tub and reposition the plate after some hours to get all sides rust free. Use a large piece of sheet metal as the sacrificial anode and bend it so it surrounds the piece to be derusted from three sides.

I used a regular 12v 2 amp charger without trouble, I just let it run for a full 24 hours. The part still looked black and grimy after that - but with just a little wire brushing under flowing water it was like new and ready for paint :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 05:15 pm:

The molasses works well, but it is slower. The advantage (in my opinion) is that you can put stuff that is "mixed metals" (steel with aluminum or brass) and it will not damage the other metals. I believe any molasses will work (has for me).


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary H. White - Sheridan, MI on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 05:28 pm:

Richard, I think we are looking at the back side of the plates and they are upside down. 405-868 IND 23. Exhaust manifold looks OK also.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 05:40 pm:

I believe the preferred chemical is washing soda, not baking soda. I don't know enough chemistry to tell you the difference.

You can approach the line of sight issue with a curved anode as Roger says, or you can use several anodes placed around the patient. Old mower blades worked for me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 06:15 pm:

Correction I did buy Arm and Hammer Washing Soda


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 06:33 pm:

David-
Looks great! Make sure you do it outside.

Does this mean no more fresh baked cookies?

: ^ O


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Tillstrom on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 07:28 pm:

You can also use PH + in the swimming pool chemical section at Walmart if you can't find washing soda. PH + is sodium carbonate and baking soda is sodium bi-carbonate. You will be able to draw max current easily with the PH +. Using a 10 amp charger you will see 10 amps as opposed to 2-4 if using baking soda. Same effect, just faster.

We have a member in our chapter that uses a little kiddie pool and does fenders in them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 07:53 pm:

David, I used the molasses treatment with great success, but it is a 'put it in and come back later' job.

In the interests of economy, I set up a series of jars with varying percentages of molasses and set pieces of rusty rod in them. It worked out that 40% molasses by volume, mixed with water, was the most cost effective mix.

Your parts must be grease and paint free for the process to work best. Cast iron needs to be watched and taken out when done. Otherwise it seems to eat the carbon out of the casting and make it rough in finish. Best results are with dry rusty steel. Parts come out like new.

Being a foodstuff type product, disposal is also much more environmentally friendly.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 08:44 pm:

Thanks all for the information and advice. What I REALLY need to get done is a brass ? exhaust packing nut rusted on an exhaust manifold loose. That is in a tub of molasses right now - Or I will go Saturday to the Model T museum and just buy a good one !


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 08:46 pm:

The exhaust manifold looks reversed to me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable on Tuesday, May 13, 2014 - 09:06 pm:

Just keep a watch on the articles in Molasses some steels will be damaged if left in too long.

We had a large molasses bath where I worked for students to use as it is a safe method (OHS issue)

A teacher put in a Model A crankshaft, when it came out it had severe pitting all over it rendering it useless.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Wolf on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 - 08:23 am:

Mike;
I'm with u on the muffler.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 - 08:27 am:

Could always be an NRS exhaust :-) :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Wolf on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 - 08:36 am:

Mike;
I mean the manifold. Sorry.
I also believe the state and yr. on those Ind. plates was on the left side of the plate.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 - 08:40 am:

Here is the picture flipped to provide more fodder for the debate. :-)

flip


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Philip Berg on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 - 12:15 pm:

Electrolysis works line of site, ph+ works good. Your anode(s) should be iron based, not tin.

A 12v old school battery charger works fine, that's what I use with no issues.


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