I bought a new set of reproduction Model T coils, purchased a meter, set the amps to 1.3 amps. I pushed the points all the way down against the base and set them at 1/32". When I did this the coils quit firing. What did I do wrong?
Set coil at 0.030 recheck the amp setting and see if they work.
Give me a call tomorrow after 11am est and I will help you.
Beforehand send me a photo of the coils
Ron the Coilman
I tried this and the coils still will not fire. Is my order wrong (set amps first, then points) or does this matter? When I set the amps the coils were firing but when I set the points the coils stopped firing.
geez,........ purchaseD a set of reproduction coils and they're not calibrated to work properly ??? What did you actually spend your Benjamins ??
Here's a photo. I can call between about 3-4 central time tomorrow if that's ok.
thanks so much
Lyndel: If I bought those coils sight unseen, I would be taking those back to the post office and asking the mfg/vendor for a refund.
I'm with Bob, should have been ready out of the box. KGB
Got it, I see the problem. The Model T ignition coil is a trap for logical people and through no fault of your own you were ensnared.
Give me a call tomorrow and I will get you pointed in the right direction.
Ron the Coilman
I have seen coils at a supplier where the points were literally thrown on, not even lined up, cushion spring not following etc. Amazingly, this same supplier had a decorative model T coil with a clock on the front for desk display and the points were set perfectly. Lyndel, you should give Ron Patterson a call.
Thanks - I will be calling Ron today!
If you read Lyndel's original message, he stated that;
1. He bought & received the coils.
2. He messed with the adjustment.
3. Now they don't fire.
Without any further information, how is that the manufacturer's fault?
LOL Jerry I was thinking the same thing.
Glad I wasn't the only one who caught that.
Ron, Can you explain to everyone on the forum what you think his problem is? Someone else may need this info in the future.
Lyndel: I typically set the points first then check the amp reading, adjust the amps then recheck the points, and repeat until everything is perfect. Typical of used points when the connections (posts to coil points) are dirty tightening the nuts of the points will make them work after being fiddled with. Hope you get er figured out.
I didn't see that he blamed the manufacturer???
Blame the tire manufacturer! Oh...wait...
The coils were working before he tried to readjust them is how I understood the original post. Seems like they were working right out of the box. And after-----------
Unless I'm not seeing the photo well (gets pretty fuzzy when it's blown up) there doesn't appear to be any clearance between the points.
There are different makers of new coils. Some are not properly adjusted when sold and have a higher rate of problems. See this old post for one example: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/38371.html?1193537268
The best coils are properly rebuilt old Ford coils or repro coils from Fun Projects/John Regan: http://www.funprojects.com/products/5007KW.aspx
(or for the old pre 13 coils, RV Anderson.)
Hal, I didn't see that either, but as Roger says some are not adjusted. Had this happen with a friend a while back. KGB
Another quality coil supplier is Brent Mize who I understand studied under Ron and is now celebrating five years in the business according to LinkedIn, the professionals network.
I am running coils from R V Anderson, Ron Patterson, and Brent Mize and all of them are running fast and flawless.
And if John Regan's coils are typical of the other items he sells, I have no doubt they're properly built and adjusted.
Mike Robison and I are interested in Ron's explanation of Lyndel's problem..... Ron's answer will benefit all forum posters I'm sure.
Craig, I don't know who makes that coil, but I had the same problem with the same coils.
Those little metal strips were not glued in place and rose up by attaching magnetically to the vibrator spring until there was no point gap left and the coil ceased to function.
I am pretty sure those are referred to as "Bower" coils. I presume that to be the makers name.
Here is an earlier thread on the poorly made Bower coils:
How are your checking and powering the coils? Are you using a buzz box, HCCT, Strobospark or just buzzing them with no spark gap. If you fired them without a spark gap you may have burnt out the winding.
I had a customer's set of Bauer coils to be checked because of starting/running problems..... ended giving him a set of my original Ford rolled stamped coils (rebuilt), and strongly suggested he contact the seller for a refund...... which he received.
I found improper upper hardware geometry, too much cushion spring travel, low vibrator tension, and points not meeting square...besides the inside flat bars being loose on the primary winding.
Anyone who purchases a set of coils should get the satisfaction that they have been properly built and calibrated to Ford specifications...... ethics and accountability.