I've never had one of these apart. Does the axle tube run all the way through the backing plate, so the bearing sleeve is actually in the axle tube, not the backing plate? I've got the rivets removed and not sure how I want to position it on the press and what to put pressure on. Also, the ring inside the axle tube the rivets go through, is that welded to the tube or is it loose? It didn't move out of place and I don't want to mess with it if it's loose in there.
Don't know about the ring but I suspect that it is just held with the rivets and yes the axle tube goes all the way through the backing plate.
David, I am curious to know why you want to remove the backing plate. Putting it back on again and setting the rivets and that ring is a real pig of a job. There is no way I would be doing it if I could simply replace the whole housing on that side.
Even if you replace that backing plate with another, the rivet holes will not line up and you will have holes to fill and new ones to drill. Not my idea of fun if I can avoid it.
Allan from down under.
This doesn't answer removing them but may help installing them.
I took a piece of bar stock about 1" thick and tapered it to fit in the end of the tube, then milled a groove along each taper to support the rivets. It supports 2 opposing rivets at a time.
When you go to reattach the backing plate you install 2 rivets at a time from the inside, tap this bucking bar in place, then use an air rivet gun to set the rivets.... works like a champ!!! I've used this to change a backing plate on a Ruckstell housing and to reset the plates on my clamshell rear end.
David, I found it easier to split the backing plate to get it off. Mine needed replaced anyway. Use a cutting torch and cutoff wheel, be careful not to cut into the tube. I also removed the inner ring.
I also found that the replacement housing rivet holes would not match the rivet holes in the tube, so I made a brass slug and pressed it into the tube and TIGed the holes closed, and then knocked the slug out. I also machined a new ring to a press fit.
When I was ready to press the backing plate on the tube, I used a length of tube same dia as the axle tube,to support the inner axle housing about 1/2" off the table of the press.
I pressed the backing plate on with another tube I made the ID just a little bigger that the axle tube so that I was pressing on the housing close to the axle tube.
Be careful to position the backing plate correctly, its a real bigger to move once its on the tube all the way.
I then drilled the rivet holes thru the new backing plate and inner ring and installed the rivets like Gary said he did.
The backing plate is hard to pull off the axle pipe. If you're working with common post 1915 axles and for some reason wants to combine parts from two same side housings it might be easier to cut the axle tubes and weld the best parts together with a fitting reinforcing pipe inside. (I like to measure thrice, check twice and cut once)
Here Stan Howe describes how he did it when creating a wide track ruckstell axle:
Dave: I've never done this so I'm going by what the other guys say and it sounds like you've got a can opener in your hand and are about to open the proverbial can of worms. Why are you changing the plate and are there any other options that will be easier for you to do?
Broken plate on a Ruckstell. I've got the replacement, rivets have been removed from the Ruckstell. I just have to work up enough nerve to try and press the old plate off.
David can you post some pictures of your press set up? PK
Probably wouldn't hurt to heat up the old backing plate while the press is pushing it off.
David, what is broken on the backing plate? Maybe it could be welded? Might be easier than trying to replace it. Just a thought. Dave