This is one cool Tractor.
She sure is!! What did she sell for Fred?
Anymore pictures Fred?
Just two questions,How and Why?? Lawn tractor? Bud.
Do you know how purchased it and can we get more pictures mainly of the drive assembly. Looks like the front axel has no spring just a pivot point and the hi-low petal is operated with a hand lever. INTERESTING UNIT.
Here's the rest of my pictures.
My latest. Coming out of PA - picker her up this weekend. Really sophisticated rear-wheel sprocket drive system on the cutting bar:
Some closeups now that I have her home:
Neat vehicle! Does that G and G vacuum tank work? I've got about four of them that I hope to make one good one out of for the 1925 Gray touring I'm restoring.
I have a new one I would sell.
Richard, I just sent you a private message. Thanks.
That is a great tractor!
Thanks Marty, Fred! This is easily the most elaborate of my three T-based tractors. The vacuum tank is being used as a reservoir for a sprocket lubrication system. She has a series of copper and brass lines running from it to the various drive gears - drip lube.
Her floor is made from cut-up T running boards - all notched to lock in the control handles for the cutting system (some of which are made from oak, some made from T parking brake handles). She was supposedly made by a guy in Reading, PA, but spent most of her life in on a farm in upstate NY. He apparently made 30 of them back in the mid-30s, but cannot verify that. Definitely a lot of finish work that you don't see in the average one-off backyard job (as much, if not more, than my '25 Shaw Conversion which I think was dealer-assembled).
My wife bought the tractor at the top of this thread for me.
Just about everything was frozen and it had a broken crank. I have gotten it running while attempting to maintain the original character.
The wood in one of the front wheels is not repairable. I need to find a replacement. It has oval spokes and the overall diameter of the clincher rim is 23 inches. The ones I find measure 24 and 25 inches. Can anyone help? Thanks.
Send it to these guys, they are the best. They will rebuild them perfectly.
Stutzman Wheel Shop
33656 County Road 12
Baltic, Ohio 43804
Thanks for the information Ed. But before I go with new, I would like to find an old one in order to keep it looking just the way it is.
The wheel in the photo is the good wheel which I plan to keep on using as long as I can. I would like one in a similar condition. The tractor only goes about 3 mph and will only be driven occasionally.
If you run out of options, you can always have new wood put on the rusty rim, and artificially age using vinegar and black tea it to match the rest.
Make a Simple Wood Ageing Solution Based on Vinegar
To age new wood to a natural silvery grey, to grey brown or black patina (depending on the wood), let a small piece of steel wool (or a few non galvanized nails) sit overnight in ordinary white vinegar, then dilute the vinegar solution 1 to 1 with water. (If you used 1/4 cup of vinegar, add 1/4 cup of water.) The nails or steel wool will have rusted. Test the result by brushing the solution on a piece of scrap wood the same as you will be using, to determine if the aged finish is the correct color. On most wood you will begin to see the ageing effect as soon as the solution is dry If not, for darker solutions, leave the solution to sit longer, or add a bit more vinegar, and test it again. Do not paint this on the final wood before you make a test in a low visibility area! The solution will need to be stronger or weaker to match age effects on certain woods.