Geez I'm getting sick of having to go backwards on this T. And I'm about to sell it. And get away . Frustrated too much time , All new parts .
Brand new tubes blew at 30 psi. Having to place back in the. 40 year old ones to make it to a tour, now yesterday I've noticed a huge Bulge in the wall and when I spin the Tire it has a nice large flat spot. Brand new Monkey Wards 30x 31/2 . Checking the other it's not round either. Vibe even taken the stupid flaps out and used top quality duct tape
Now send back to the supplier ? $$ , I will call them tomorrow I can wait tell I readjust the tubes and tires and try that. But come ion I've done several Motorcycle tires are no problem . TT is on Wooden Clincher type wheels
Clinchers are supposed to run at 55-65 psi, so if they blew at 30 you got some bad ones. You didn't drive on them at 30 psi did you? That would do it. So far my Wards are holding up OK.
Duct tape does nothing with clinchers. You need a flap that goes inside the tire. Sound like you may have pinched the tube. The flap keep the tube in the tire just like tuck tires so it doesn't work down between the edges.
Flaps are the only way to go in my opinion, especially if you are mounting them yourself. All the money you spend on new tires and tubes can be frustrating if you pinch a tube with a tire iron, plenty of baby powder and flaps make for a pretty easy installation, just did mine a few weeks ago.
A huge bulge in the wall of the tire could indicate a bad rim, I made the mistake of putting a tire on a marginal rim even after reading about the side walls being cut by a sharp rim. A photo of the tire would help in diagnosis.
Very good point. Maybe the tire has slipped passed part of the rim, but not enough to lose air pressure.
Ford never used flaps with clinchers, and I don't, either.
I had a blowout from a pinched/folded flap.
Well i guess that concludes the debate with the result YOU had.
Sorry Ricks, didn't mean to be so sarcastic..I'll hit the rack now.
I'd much rather be careful not to pinch the tube with a tyre lever than fork out more than $100 for a set of unnecessary flaps.
Allan from down under.
Steve, you don't say what pressure you were running in your tyres. If they blew at 30psi, and that is what you were running, that could well be the problem. They need at least 60psi to keep them in place on the rim. At 30, they will move around, chafe on the edge of the rim, and develop cuts really soon. This may be the reason for the bulge you have. The bead may be cut and the only thing holding it all together is the rubber, the fabric having been cut. I hope this is not the case for you.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Flaps for split rims, strip for clinchers. KGB
Flaps for clinchers, strip for drop center rims.
I did two tours at 45-50 psi, the tubes blew at 30 filling them up before mounting . then placed in what I could find to make the tour no problem with the tubes but two where of the brass vavle stem and the tire on my drivers side is the one new tube i left in is brass. its the one that is bulging at the vavle stem area. the old rubber one is ok .
the flaps were just to hard to handle and put back together, and made no sence to me. but to protestr the tubes only. Today I took out the tube and found the tire beading split at about where the valve stem was, like the rim cut it but the whole rim is a bit sharp?, and never a problem before with the old tires at 25 psi , driving 200 plus miles, just crap products I call it . i'll readjust the tire on the rim and place in a new rubber vavle stem, set it at 50 psi and check the flat spot . sad thing is its Memorial weekend to take the T,to a Air show or event, its down again, apart ,I think i'm best to go away and go fishing, I may have put too many hours in the TT and did three years time restoration in only a year and a half plus working full time. amazing what you can do when your addicted
SORRY, I DID SPELL CHECK AND ITS STILL NOT RIGHT. it posted my non correction part not the preview post CANT THIS SITE GET THE PICTURES RIGHT AND STUFF?
Steve, others have said it already but it deserves repeating as you continue to debate the bad tire/tube. TIRE PRESSURE SHOULD BE 60 POUNDS. If you have rims that are sharp, this will certainly cut tires when cornering and only 45-50 pounds. Just saying, Dick C.
Steve, regarding your frustration with the '14 and ultimate desire to sell it...don't let it get ya down. I've been in the same boat as you, with my '15. Bought it in Dec. '12, and as yet haven't had the chance to put 100 miles on it collectively yet! And here it is, almost mid-2014!
Between it coming with a bad engine, getting it rebuilt, put back together, drive a couple short trips, now two wheels are at Stutzman's being re-spoked, will need two new tires and eventually the other side also, seems to never end. I'm gonna beat this thing, so you should too! (Not literally, of course!)
Do I understand that you intend to re-use the tire with the rim cut/bulge? If so, that wouldn't be a great idea. If the bead truly is cut, the tire is no longer any good, sorry to say. Also, before you remount any tire on that rim, you'll need to file down the sharp edge. But maybe I misunderstand.
Good rims or bad rims, under-inflated tires cause the sidewalls to break down whether the car is driven or just parked in the garage. This is true for both modern car tires and antique car tires.
Stuck some hard old Wards tires with flaps on my rims for my 16 hard in a shop impossible on the road. Way to easy to pinch a tube and start over.
Thank God for demountable rims even if they are not proper for a 16
This is what a sharp rim can do in a short time. I had run this rim and tire for 5 years, then all of a sudden, I notice this. I have since been working my way around the car putting new rims on as I can afford them.
Just to add a further comment, the tires were always kept at 60 psi and inspected at the beginning of each tour.This tire is now trash even though the tread is good.
I run flaps by the way. The previous owner had a history of getting punctures, so I put new flaps, tubes and tires on. Interesting that there were lots of patches on the tube where it contacted the rim. I have only had one puncture since 2005.
I get the impression the tube was inflated to 30 LBS in the casing before the tire was mounted on the rim, this could cause a bulge in the tube.
There is no way one could mount a tire on a rim with the tube having 30 lbs. in it !
"the tubes blew at 30 filling them up before mounting"
I buy all my tires from Lang's and they're "drop-shiped" directly from the manufacturer who
a.) gets a LOT of business from Lang's, and
b.) understands that Lang's insists on satisfied customers.
Somehow, as if by magic, all my tires have arrived completely devoid of flaws and absolutely
overpowering with the sinus-piercing pungency of very fresh rubber.
"Mounting" on the rim or mounting on the wheel ?
I'm not sure it is possible to inflate a 23" tube to 30 lbs. with out a catastrophic failure, if not contained !
One would have to be "Superman" to be able to compress the tire sidewall and beaded edge to even get it started on the rim with the tube inflated to 30 lbs. !
Mounting the demountable rims on the vehicle? In other words, the tire was on the rim with 30psi in it, before the rim was mounted on the vehicle?
I'm with Bob Coiro. Get all of mine from Lang's and they come in perfect. All my tractors run 30 x 3-1/2s and I ALWAYS use the flaps. Never an issue.
Was laughing at your tractor tire Ron! Just fixed a tube on my 14.00 x 24. full of balance weight liquid. If its laying down you need a cherry picker to get it vertical.
Run standard T fronts on all of my T tractors. Backs are either steel lug (the Shaw in my profile pic) or 7.5x20 agricultural (the doodlebugs). What you're dealing with is a TRACTOR tire!
Looked at your profile---cool tractors or doodlebugs as you call them.