Supposed to get my wheels back soon from getting re-spoked, and want to get prepped for my first drive..."ever". I have no idea the condition of the oil and know that it should be changed since I do not know when it was last. The oil is between the pitcoks and has plenty. Suggestions or pointers as for the best course of action to drain and replace?
Since you don't know how long its been there, if you can warm the engine first it makes draining a bit easy as warm oil flows better.
And raise the front end a foot if possible. That will let most of the quart of oil in the inspection pan flow out the center drain.
Or you can drop the pan and clean, and see the innards of the engine too
Refill with gallon of fresh oil, after replacing the pan and drain plug.
Oh...don't drop the pan until after you drain from the crankcase drain plug, its messy without doing that first
Always cover the garage floor with paper or such, as for me, oil spills just happen!
Scott, another newbie to the hobby here but its pretty straight forward. Drain oil, add 3 1/2 to 4 quarts of your favorite blend till it starts to come out of the top petcock (i use cheap 5/30) since you should change it often but others use different weights...Done!..Have fun on your maiden run.
I'm at the other end. Just open the plug and drain the oil. Let it drip out for a while then close it up and re-fill it with a decent 10w-30 oil until it just drips out of the top petcock. No sense leaving old (& possibly crap) oil in there and no reason to pull any thing apart or go looking for trouble that might not even exist. Just change the oil.
Then go out and enjoy the FUN OF DRIVING A "T"!
For your first oil-change, keep it simple: Unscrew the plug, drain, screw the plug back in, open the top petcock, uncork the oil filler neck on the engine and slowly pour in as much oil as it takes to get the open top petcock to barely start dripping. Either 5W-30, 10W-30 or straight-weight 30 is fine for now.
If this is your first time driving a Model T, just drive around the block over and over as you practice pulling away from a dead stop, shifting, accelerating and stopping. Do that over and over until it becomes second nature. And for Pete's sake, watch the road, not your feet!
Now, here's what I learned the hard way:
If your fuel tank needs to be filled, don't make your first experience in your Model T a trip to your local gas station. That's way too stressful for a first solo. Instead, use your modern car to take an empty gas can to a gas station, fill it, then pour the can into your Model T's tank. Egad, don't do what I did:
Scott: are your wheels at Stutzmans? I have two there right now. Can't wait to get them back to get the '15 on the road again.
Re oil..since this is apparently your first time, might not hurt to take off the inspection plate on the top of the hogshead (trans. cover) and first, see if it has the "lint screen" in it, if it doesn't, a lot of us recommend getting one, some don't. I have 'em in all mine. I clean it out, never much stuff, but some, every oil change. Then I can just dump the oil straight in there, with a little from the front filler. I also believe in adding ZDDP, others don't, but today's oils are very low in phosphorus and zing and that supposedly is hard on the camshaft and lifters.
Just two cents from another newbie!
While you are under there might as well fill all of the Grease cups or if they have been replaced with zerk fittings give 'em all a squeeze of the grease gun fill all of the oil cups (spring shackles etc.with a light oil (3n1 or something similar) when you put your wheels on a little extra grease in the centre of the spindle wont hurt.
Make sure the hole in the top pet cock isn't plugged.
@ Tim - Yes, I also have 2 wheels at Stutzmans. I asked for a couple of extra spoke to test stain colors. Tim, do you have a picture to share the lint screen? I have opened it and I am not sure where to look.
@ Charles - Sounds like your tip and from experience. I will be sure to check it before filling.
Here is a picture of the lint screen, it fits between the hogshead hole flange and the cover. If you install one, make sure to put a gasket on both sides of the screen. I don't know if they all come with one, but mine has a magnet stuck to the rear curved area to catch metal particles.
Since we've digressed a little to other lubrication, I'll mention that some people use chain saw oil in the shackles and other oilers because it lasts longer than motor oil.
I just changed the oil in the 14 and was ready for the first outing this year.The county just now brined the road!!!!!!!! Mowing lawn instead! Bud.PS,Which is it Bob oil or tar? Bud.
Scott--Mark Strange beat me to it! I usually don't get back on the computer 'til later in the evening to re-check things. But he hit the nail on the head.I've bought two screens, both had magnets, but the second one was a LOT tinier than the first one! I was shocked. Hope it does the job if necessary
My grandpa showed me how they did it in the "old days" If the engine is dirty and has very old oil. Drain the oil out the lower drain. Then put the drain plug back in. Then pour a gallon of Kerosene or Diesel in the engine. With the spark plugs removed, hand crank the engine several times, let it sit for about 15 minutes and then hand crank a little more. Then drain out the diesel or kerosene. Let sit and drain till most of the dripping quits. Then with the drain plug still out, pour in a sacrificial quart of oil through the front oil fill hole. It will push the remaining diesel/kerosene in the dips of the pan out. Then replace the drain plug. This is a good time to install or check the screen under the trans cover. If you do not have one I highly recommend one and they now have a magnet with them. Before putting the cover and screen back on is a good time to fill the engine with the oil of your choice, till it just starts to run out the top spigot. Crank her up, check for leaks and have fun