After a Vendor, saying not going to correct my flat spot in the tire or the tire was damaged due to the rim, and nothing about my tube blowing before I got to 35 psi. ( I know all vendors can take care of things . Like after the year if Spending $8,000 on the account) . I probably will not be buying from them anymore. Place my old crack tires back on which are better quality and never had any problem or a sharp run tubes are tougher even, sad the new tires go as a tree swing or for spares $200 ea with shipping monkey ward never Again . I will be looking into son sort if Motorcycle tire not dine cheap repo T tire from Viet Nam . My other tires are 80 years old and better than new with the weather cracks
If the tires were made by Universal or Coker, then I would go to them directly. I think they will stand by their products if they are defective.
Motorcycle tires are constructed differently from car tires. On car tires, the tread area is stiff, and the sidewall is made to flex. On motorcycle tires, the sidewall is stiff, and the tread area is mad to flex to conform to the road at lean angles. For these reasons, car tires shouldn't be used on motorcycles, and motorcycle tires shouldn't be used on cars. Also the bead area isn't wide enough to use an a clincher.
My old Tires sat flat for 8 years outside in the rain 119 degree temps when I bought the Truck, filled the Tires up to pull into the trailer , drove the TT for a year on 25 psi and never a problem . Now new tubes weak tires weak full to 60 that's bs they will slip bull, I can't even get these to slip deflated off the car at 50 psi it's rides like I have rick hard tires. But it rolls better that's about it .
Dint know who the Supplier is for Montgomery's. Remakes ? To vendors back east. So far email send seeing if they take both Tires back and tubes make it right and send me the Universal Tires. Other wise $400 out and or miss matched tires on a museum car.
I just figured out what blew out the bulge in the Tire. It. Is the brass tube they sent me to use in a wooden wheel. The blown part on the tube is in the exact spot where the tire is bulged out Exploding the tube then pressing the tire with force against the Rim. And lousy quality tire Bingo! I'd post pictures but it's the. Resize image game I can't get work
Steve Elliott, yeah right! what BS! who are you talking to?? I know better than all that. You give the Hobby a bad name. Take ownership of your mistakes. Good for the dealer. I thought this was headed down road with the last post. Am I the only one who thinks this?
There are photos of your truck taken in April in this thread:
Are these the two old front 30 x 3.5 tires that you ran at 25 PSI? I would think that they would have looked noticeably flat as they should have been inflated to at least 55 PSI. However, they don't look flat to me.
You have split-rims with balloon tires in the rear. Those could be inflated at 25 PSI without looking flat since they are lower pressure tires and normally would be inflated around 32 to 35 PSI.
Well here's the latest. New tubes rubber stems installed rotated the tire where the bead is to a deferent spot on the rim away from the valve stem , and filled up the tire. No bulge. And it's going 100 miles tomarrow , I will take my chances. And for you mike it maybe it's a bit strange that the brass tubes blew a pinch in the tire. But it almost blew me off my feet at that time, but come on something is not right here. Hobby or not I'm covering some tech issues here , last week it was the coil And wring coil sent to me , how would I to know??? there's no BS here. Just not to Lucky buying new parts . The other tire passenger side is rubber valve stem not a problem. Probably the wrong brass stem tubes for a wood wheel . What would have they've done back in the days. Wait two weeks for a new tire. Yea right.
No the tours were new tires at 50 psi. Before I replaced new tires before the tour they were at 30 psi for a year,, new tires at 50 psi. Two tours . I just saying you think any farmer or anybody back in 1925 could get to 59-60 psi with a hand pump? I've drove my other T home with flat tires no problem . like im sure they did back in T time .no choice
The front tires are 30x3-1/2, rears, 33x5, all high pressure tires. Tires in the April photo look excellent, these must be the tires Steve is unhappy with. Sounds to me like he had a little bad luck with his inner tubes, a pain in the rumpus maybe but no disaster. I still think if the tires and tubes came from Coker or Universal, they will stand behind them if they are trully defective.
I haven't done a lot of driving on my brass-stem tubes, but so far they're OK.
I have a set of cheapie tubes installed with flaps, no issues after a year of use.
I have a foot operated tire pump that is carried under the seat on tours. Like the original Model T hand pumps it easily will reach 65 PSI for my 30 X 3 1/2 tires.
You should run 65 PSI on your TT front tires. Less than that and the tires will fail often and rapidly as you have found.
My defected brass valve stem tube caused the problem as stated in other posts problem with tubes. What I'm not happy about is a vendor S , won't cover any replacement .
I'm not running my T at 65 psi. It's like a tank now and I'm for air expansion yes the hand pumps. today may get up to and my foot pump 60 psi . But no way back in 1925 .
When I'm ready I'm going to drop the tires down to 25 psi , like I did before and prove you will not have any problem. TT truck was loaded with hay old 40 year old tires no problem . There are several T running around for a long time at low pressure tell someone at a event suggests them have you checked your tire pressure lately . Something we forget on all our vehicles . So as of today with the new Tire with a split inside the bead , with new rubber valve stem tubes , no bulge, where can the tire go anyway ? It's locked in the rim with that huge bead I'm running 59.9 psi and rolls like a tank
So I am wrong to think that folks may have a hard time proving tires and tubes are defective because the tire vender can blame the rim?
I know our stuff is old,but most T folks know the sharp edges can cause trouble and take care of it so they wont be on the roadside with problems later.
Should we photograph and document the condition of stuff before and after for better chances at warranty recovery?
Good one mark , once a sale the vendor wants to blame everything they can with out replacing it. It not good business practices to do that even in my business a customer says it went wrong replace it anyway and you'll be in business forever a $ part or $ 100 part can be written off and your labor and his is what makes you shine for having followers Today it seems like all stuff is for replacement. Thanks to our Gov for costing so much to stay in business here in the US, and having it made oversees
The rear tires on your TT need to be inflated to 80 PSI. 30 X 3 1/2 fronts are 65 - 70 PSI. The sooner you realize that you are underinflating your tires the sooner you will cease to have flats.
Steve: If you run your 30X3-1/2 inch tires at 25 psi I will almost guarantee you will have rim cuts and torn off valve stems. If you drive with slow easy take offs and slow easy stops, stay on good flat paved surfaces, you may get by with no problems. There is a reason they call the clincher tires "high pressure tires" And yes it is possible to get 60 plus psi with a hand pump. Its not as easy as using an air compressor, but most thing back in the day "were not easy". As to riding like a "tank" Its a model T not a Rolls Royce.
One thing I got to thinking about is that when I place a tire on a clincher rim, I cut a notch in each side of the bead next to the valve stem so that the bead will settle into the rim. It is possible that the valve stem was pushing the bead out of the rim causing the tire to balloon out if that location was next to the valve stem.
Norm, I don't understand that. You cut the tires? Got a picture? I don't recall having any problem with the tires seating by the valve stem when installing clinchers.
I did I think they sent me the brass ones for steel spokes, it was right at the right if the vale stem the blown part then new brass tube I had to keep putting back in like a Hernia. The new rubber stems dint do that and no bulge and up to. 76 miles as now and god says 35-40 mph and varying road speeds , Now go to 80 psi no thanks. Tomarrow spots will be for 100 psi , I'll drop these off at a tire shop and tell them to fill they they blow stand back. Cause the tube are cheap not like made in the past. If I lower the pressure I'd place rim locks. No more time to mess with this. Time to go practice Wax on Wax off
Read what Universal Tire has to say about tire pressure:
Front tires ( these are minimum pressures) https://www.universaltire.com/universal-brand-tires/clincher-tires/30-x-3-1-2-un iversal-t-driver-blackwall.html\
Rear tires (again, minimum pressures):
What brand of foot operated tire pump do you recommend? Had a flat on the way home from church today in my '16 and had to get a ride home to pick up my trailer 'cause I don't have a pump.
You can lead a horse to water......
Steve Jelf. The "notch" Norman is talking about is something old timers used to do. They would cut a small V shaped notch on each bead area of the tire. It was just big enough for the valve stem to fit in. It was to let the beads of the tire to totally close when installing the tires on the rim, without pinching the stem of the tube. It was thought that the notch let the stem not "suffer" any damage and also gave a little more room when fitting the tire. I have cut them and it does help some. Its not necessary but its the way my grandpa used to do it.
I do them the same as Norm (and Donnie's grandpa).
The one I have is red in color. I got it at Pep Boys. I don't see a name on it anywhere. It easily pumps my 30 X 3 1/2 tires to 65 PSI.
The reason for flaps in most if not all new clinchers, the "V" does not close up like the old tires and leaves a gap. For me, I will use them and lessen the chances of the tube getting pinched or chafed in that gap.
How do you figure that hand pumps in the teens and 20s couldn't get to 60+ PSI? I get 80 on my tiny bicycle hand pump. It is a rubber diaphragm, not too far off from the T pumps.
Even the 1914 "THE MODEL T CAR" states that "A tire Pressure Gauge is a very necessary article of equipment in any car, and its proper use when blowing up tires will insure the best possible results if the schedule recommended by the tire manufacturers is adhered to. Ford Front tires should be inflated to 60 pounds and the rear ones to 70 pounds pressure. The rule is 20 pounds for every inch of tire width" P173
I'm a bit confused by another point. Were you running under inflated when you had the issue? If I were a vendor, and heard that you were not following the instructions; in this case only filling to half the recommended pressure, then I wouldn't refund either. If something happened while inflating for the first time that is different.