Does anyone know the correct configuration of oilers (or grease cups) for the front and rear spring shackles on a late '12 ? I can't believe it, but after first lubing this car 52 years ago I finally noticed that it carries a mix of grease cups, oilers, and in a couple of places, nothing at all.
Bruce's book (Pg. 124, lower left corner of page) carries the following quote: "Spring shackles, while not visible here, were all of the "Mae West type, front and rear, with brass oilers." That's as close as I have come to a straight answer. But were the oilers on both upper and lower bolts of the shackles ? Did they face forward or aft ? Were there ever grease cups instead of oilers ?
Most of the shackle cups that I have are the grease type, with a T-handle that pushes the grease into the working area. I've always accepted these parts as authentic, but I don't even see those in any of the supplier catalogs.
Thanks in advance,
Don't know if this is of any help but the January 1, 1913 parts book, lists part #3817, Front and rear spring hanger oiler, 8 per car.
Just oilers. Grease wasn't used on the T for spindles or spring shackles.
The oilers on the May West shackle are on opposite sides.
Zerk or Alemite grease fittings for t handle grease gun are 1928 and later Model A parts.
factory photo of early brass oiler fittings on a '14 I believe.
shiny! NOS oilers!
Yes, brass oilers front and aft. Ignore the flip top. It's there because my under-axle wishbone has later perches. Your 1912 perches won't have that hole on top.
Some folks like to use chain saw oil for this because it lasts longer than motor oil.
OK, thanks guys. I can now see in the Lang's catalog where they call for a total of 12 oilers.
Baring my soul, here, but 3 of my shackle bolts don't have grease cups or oilers at all. There is a slight depression in the heads, which after a little digging, appears to be really old, dried, painted-over grease. I've always just dribbled oil on the shackles because I thought that's what I was supposed to do.
I'll order some more oilers and, when they come, I will be back asking for some guidance on removing shackle bolts to clean out all the dried grease.
Dan, are you showing the pictures because you'd like to sell some oilers? I can obviously order them from one of the vendors, but you helped me with my question so you would be my first choice.
No, those oilers in the drawer are someone's else. Just pulled that pic from an old forum post for eye candy
I'm not sure which way the original shackles were placed, but if you put the top oiler in back and the bottom in front on the front axle it will be easier to oil them. The reverse is true for the rear. The top goes toward the front of the car and the bottom toward the rear.
When you clean out the holes, you can use a 1/8 pipe tap to clean the threads. Just don't overdo it and go too deep.
Does anyone know of a source for the springs that go in the early oilers? I checked with a spring company downtown, and they have thousands, but not the one we need. I have a bag of original oilers that need springs, and, yes they do reproduce these oilers, but they are not quite the same as the originals!
You can have custom springs wound by most large supply houses. I have done business with Century Spring a number of times and the setup charges are fairly reasonable.
Steve, if you want to ditch the flip top perch oilers, pull them out and pound pieces of lead shot in the holes, then paint them black, the hole will nearly disappear.
Thanks Dick, Century Spring is the company I mentioned. I believe the set up fee is $300. Other than died in the wool purists like me, I doubt if they would sell, because the average T guy can buy a beautiful reproduction oiler from Restoration Supply for $13. For some reason I've always liked originals for my cars. It just makes me feel better to see them there!
While we are on the subject of lubrication, my 1917 Maxwell uses these exact same oilers in many places such as the king pins and brake levers. Is there any advantage to staying original or would I get better results and parts life extension by switching to grease fittings?
I've thought about the merits of grease instead of oil, too. Sure don't see many chassis lubed with oil on modern cars.
Steve's suggestion of using chain saw oil makes good sense to me and I'm going to start doing that.
Steve, will chain saw oil go though an ordinary squirt can or do you use some other dispensing method ?
The 600W will flow though a squirt can, slow but will work. Don't know about chain bar oil but if it will flow it should. I use the heavy oil on most all the links and pins along with the front axle parts. Does not drip off as fast as regular motor oil.
If you think about it, I think even the big steam locomotives used oil cups on the rods and other places. Part of the oiliers job was to check thing out as they were oiling. Same thing with oiling the car, gives you a chance to check over the car.