I think I bent the valve over too much when installing my last 30x3 tire. To avoid this problem, should I tighten the rim nut before installing the tire (that is, the nut outside the felloe) to draw up the tube against the rim?
Phil
I doubt that the problem arose from manipulating the stem during installation. Rather, I suspect that the rim nut was over tightened and pulled the stem out of the tube.
I install the rim nut last only as tight as I can get it with my fingers.
I would think that a bridge washer and locknut on the tube (and flap, if there is one) would help protect that area around the stem. Here is a picture of how everything fits:
I didn't tighten the rim nut all the way; maybe 70%. I'm thinking the valve stem got pushed upward by the lower tire bead (the wheel being flat on the bench). After inserting the other tire bead, a "lump" was left where the valve is located. I pushed this lump down with a board, but the damage was done.
These are real tight-fitting tires!
Phil
I used the bridge nut, etc. as in the illustration, Mark.
Phil
Uh oh, I hope this isn't the first indication of a new quality problem with tubes!
I had a failure like yours last week, but when I pulled the old tube out I noticed that it didn't have a bridge washer or locknut. I installed a new tube with a flap, bridge washer, and locknut, thinking that would fix the problem. It is holding air so far, but your case has introduced some doubt in my mind.
I ordered two new tubes from Lang's and they told me they are on 3-4 weeks backorder from the supplier (Universal).
I ordered my replacement tube from Langs today, so I guess I have to wait. The above tube came from Lucas. It's marked "Made in EEC" (European Economic Community?)
Phil
The bridge washer and its lock nut are put on to the stem to clamp the valve tight around the tube. This is so the valve becomes a sealed unit stopping any leak at the valve. Unless you clamp the metal stem to the rubber tube it won't work.
If it was a rubber stem it would be vulcanised to give the same effect. The Flap is not involved.
The easiest way to put on the tire is to put the tube in the tire with a small amount of air to keep it in shape, add a flap ( if you want too )inside the tire so the tube is sealed behind it and then place the tire over the rim with the valve stem in its hole.
Then work the two sides of the tire at the rim into the bead and work around the tire with levers and a rubber hammer until the tire is on the rim.
You can then work the tire by bouncing it or using a Rubber hammer to spread the tire beads into the rim.
Pump it up to about 30 psi let out all the air and pump it up again.
As mentioned a few days ago some people nick a bit out of the inner edge of the bead where the valve is as often the tire covers the hole in the rim and it makes it difficult for the valve to be put in and pulled through so you can put on the rim washer and bulges the tire at that point.
Tighten up the rim washer and add the valve cover after you have pumped up the tire to its correct pressure.
Good tip about snipping a bit off the bead, Peter. I'll try that. I'm using white Firestone tires made in New Zealand. Not sure of the age, but they look good. They do seem to grab the valve stems.
Phil
PJ, the modern metal valve stems are different to the good ole ones. The foot on the new stem is smaller and the stem seems to be moulded into the tube. Break this seal and you have a problem.
I would suggest you find an old style stem and fit it. The wider flange on it makes for a better seal when the bridge washer and nut are tightened. The valve area on old time tubes was thicker and reinforced with fabric and clamping pressure caused no real problems. With newer tubes without the fabric reinforcement, I do the nut up tight, without getting too carried away and squeezing the rubber out sideways.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Could I repair this tube with a replacement stem? If so, where can I find one and how are they installed?
Phil
http://www.sheepisland.com/cars/tech/metal_stems/
This the procedure I use for converting rubber stem tubes. I had a metal stem tube like your fail in the same manner. I wasn't comfortable with the size of the hole in the tube when I removed the rest of the valve so I threw it out.
I just found this sketch of the proper set up for the tire with a flap, if any one in the future sees this posting and misses reading the full thread this may help them avoid a lot of problems.
The flap and the tube are assembled as two different things not joined together as one by the valve stem and the bridge washer and its nut.
I just found this sketch of the proper set up for the tire with a flap, if any one in the future sees this posting and misses reading the full thread this may help them avoid a lot of problems.
The flap and the tube are assembled as two different things not joined together as one by the valve stem and the bridge washer and its nut.
Your photo doesn't indicate that you have the valve stem inserted into the tube. Next, it appears you have a larger non T valve stem.
Would be better off placing in your old tubes. See if your supplier will warranty this cheap tube. Mine did not , see early posts on people having trouble with tubes and poor quality parts
Here are some original stems, dust covers and related hardware at a fairly reasonable price - less than the price of one brass valve stem tube!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Brass-Valve-Stem-Dust-Cover-Hardware-Antique-Aut o-PARTS-LOT-/281352686652?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4181ed4 c3c