Hi 'ya folks, I just joined today and need some advice on a '27 pickup.
The truck actually belongs to my neighbor and I was asked to get it running.
The truck was stored since the early 70's and was periodically started and moved over the years. The last time it was running was about about eight years ago. The truck is solid but will need a full restoration.
I work on vintage cars as a hobby but never anything this old. I want to give my neighbor good advice on what to do with the truck.
My background is in automotive mechanics and electronics. I was able to figure out the ignition system and got the T running again within a day. The engine sounds OK but I'm not an expert. Its currently running on three cylinders as the coil box for #4 is being stubborn.
Low, high and reverse seem to work (on jack-stands)
At this point the truck would probably move but it has four flat tires.
My neighbor really has no interest in vintage cars but wanted to know if I could make the truck safe to drive on public roads. Personally I think the truck could be driven cautiously with new tires brakes and wheel bearings but would be more trouble than its worth.
The engine starts, runs, radiator holds water, The electrics are a mess so I made a temporary harness for the ignition and starter. No interior. The bed is rock solid, the cab is rusty but very solid. The doors fit well and open and shut with ease. The headlights look ok and are currently off the vehicle.
Realistically, what is the value of something like this? My best guess is somewhere between 2-3K but that might be an over estimate.
You need to post more and better pics if possible,..check out the guidelines of how to do so. I would be willing to make an offer with more info on the truck.
Sorry, the picture is pretty small. I had to resize it to get it under the 200K limit.
Will photobucket links work here?
As far as I know the truck isn't for sale, however I will forward your offer if you make one.
I'm sort of trying to determine the value before I advise the owner on additional repairs.
Jim, they're only original once. Restoring that truck might be a disservice. I wish I had a neighbor like yours. As it sits the truck has value. Both monetary and intrinsic as it's as original as it gets and my opinion is I'd rather see one original T that shows it's scars then a hundred 100 point restored cars. The only story that applies to restored cars involve time and money and anyone could have one. But original cars get your imagination working and they're becoming fewer and farther between. .
If it runs, $3000.00 max. Probably closer to $2000.00 to $2500.00.
Sorry Jim, i misunderstood. I think the max you can go on pics here is 194 MB. If your friend is interested in selling, you can pm me, and i will make him an offer..Thanks.
Hi 'ya Mike,
The truck has plenty of patina and I agree it should be kept that way. I think the truck is solid enough that the appearance wouldn't be a safety issue.
I plan to back it off the trailer tomorrow and move it up to the barn.
Hi 'ya John,
No problem! I'll be talking with the owner sometime this weekend and I'll know more about the status.
Give this a read;
I'd say 5-7500.00 the way it sits, Try to find good doors, body, P. up bed, NO ONE MAKES REAR FENDERS, I'VE got over 9000.00 in parts for mine and its in pcs yet, Tell the fellow not to give it away, Harness are cheap (Wiring)
Your miss is probably a bad coil, or maybe it only needs adjusting. Coils are easy to find, perhaps you will be able to do that.
If the 27 PU is pretty solid its worth at the very least 5.000.
Since the doors open and shut good that's a good indicator of being 'still together'. Put some decent tires on it, and if the engine, radiator, and wheels are still drivable and you got it running it would go for 8000.00 fairly quick.
It would go quick for 5.000 at a T meet just like it is.
The price around 2,500 - 3,000 is good. Problem with buying a T is that you don't really know the condition until you have it for a while and drive it to see how it holds up.
There are two routes to go with that car. If you have a place to store it out of the weather, you can leave the body just as it is and concentrate on the mechanical and safety features to get it into dependable running condition, and just leave the body alone. It's surprising how much attention they get when they are old and rusty but running. They will actually attract more bystanders than a restored car.
The other route is to restore it completely. Anything between leaving it alone or restoration makes it look worse. And once the restoration begins it must be done completely to look good again.
You don't show any hood or top in your picture, and the upholstery does not show either. No way to tell from a picture the condition of the wood wheels either.
At any rate it will take a lot of money, and labor to restore that car. It can be done, though. I have done one which was just a big pile of rusty parts, and now is a complete running car. If you do it yourself except for such things as machine work and sewing upholstery, it will save a lot of money. Professional work if done correctly could give you a prize winner, if that's what you want, but if so you will not be able to drive it very much, because any ding will lose points on a show car.
I personally do as much work as I can myself and drive my cars. Those are the parts of the hobby I enjoy. Others like to show their cars, but have everything done for them. It takes all types, and they are all welcome in the hobby.
You would never get 5K for it around here. You would get bites at 2.5-3
Doing the work yourself is going to run about $600.00 to $750.00 to rebuild the rearend. The transmission between $1000.00 to $1500.00 or more. The engine will be $2500.00 to $3000.00. A low cost radiator is $800.00. Rebuild the front end will be a few hundred dollars and you haven't touched the tires, re spoke the wheels, replace glass, top, necessary work on the top bows, wiring, and you're still going to tie a lot of money into the body work and interior. The car will cost $12000.00 to $15000.00 to turn into a good driver and will have a value of $8000.00 to $12000.00. The initial cost needs to be low to avoid completely losing your butt on the project. Though you'll never get back what you've got into it you can cut some corners to soften the blow.
You cannot find them in Mo and other places. Coarse I have found a NOS LFT front fender and NOS rears, NOW w.s posts, NOS bottom wind frame Parts from Mo, Ill, Don Lang, etc, and lots of patch panels from Howells, new bed wood etc.
Thanks for the input!
I drove the T off the trailer and parked it for now. I'm still waiting to hear from the owner.
Four other neighbors showed up to watch me drive the car ten feet and were amazed the car runs.
I can see how these cars can become addicting.
In reply to Larry Smith, All the coil boxes were cleaned and adjusted, however the number four box is unresponsive. I'll give it another look if the owner wishes.
After reading the link Mark posted, I think I'll advise the owner that is car is not a jump in and drive toy. Just checking the oil might be too much for him.
Just for fun, I'm linking the youtube video on the first start.
I think tomorrow I'll try hand cranking the engine.
Jim. Cool find. If you are not used to cranking cars please at least read this. If you are right handed it's ok to prime the car a few times with the switch off when you spin it. To start, turn on the switch, make sure the spark is all the way up and that means verify the timer actually moved all the way up before turning on the switch. Then using the left hand with thumb behind, not wrapped around the crank start er up with a quick quarter turn from the bottom. If she kicks it will fly out of your hand, maybe nick the finger tips. if it kicks with the right hand, even though the thumb is off, the crank will spin back and smack the back of your hand. Often breaking tarsal bones.
It happened to me after 50 yrs of right hand cranking. 8 weeks before I could use the hand normally!!!!!
When you verify it's all the way retarded, and turn on the switch, sometimes you'll get a free start when you turn on the switch!!! And maybe move the spark down a bit to entice it!!!
Also since I would be suspicious of the emergency brake pawl, I would put a block under the front wheels, cause if the handle slips ahead Lizzie is gonna a try to flatten you against the side of the barn!!
Have fun, nothing like getting old iron running after decades.
Jim, your fan belt is too loose, and you may need to add some water.
Here's are a couple of videos to illustrate Andy's description of hand starting.