I found this in an engine I just tore down. It used a cork for a seal.
Now I know the right way to put one of these on.
I have one, I also found mine in an engine. Nice item, that's not often seen ....
Tom, what is the diameter of that shield? The repro shields are too small.
And it's amazing and outrageous that they are. This is a case where making it the right size would be no harder than making it the right size. When somebody produces such a product, you have to wonder what he's thinking, if anything.
Steve man, don't sugar coat it. Tell us how you really feel. =)
It is 2.662" outside diameter.
"This is a case where making it the right size would be no harder than making it the right size."
Steve, I can't argue with that.....
Sure wish we could edit.
No reason to edit, you're spot on. Lol, I'm just giggling that it did seem to raise your ire a bit.
In all fairness - I've wondered if some of the problems with some repro items is the new producer only measured 1 or 2 Model T's and just happened to get something at one end of the spectrum. If I was going to produce something I'd want to do the due diligence on checking as many T's as possible, but variable production tolerances and much more variable wear means I might get values all over the place for my widget size and have to pick SOMEthing.
The main thing I think is really important is just being open to feedback from your customers. From what I've seen the nice part about the T crowd is that they WILL tell you what's wrong with your product as well as what would make it better. Granted, you can't please everyone. At the same time, most of us here on the board definitely WANT folks to reproduce any and all items they are interested in doing correctly. For those producers who make a quality item(s), we tend to gush about them and share with everyone else we know in the community.
That new TW timer is great example. Based on all of the reports I've seen I have no problem recommending it to someone looking for a new timer (even though I have a sexy high tension magneto).
Guys like John Regan, Ron Patterson, and others do the proper research. They don't just reverse engineer from sample parts. They take the time to get the original Ford drawings and specifications and work from those so they get it right. Unfortunately some people making new parts are willing to go on guesswork, and they sometimes (often?) get it wrong.
I suspect that some reproduction parts are adaptations of newer parts or materials that can be modified to work. Perhaps the source of the repro shields has a warehouse full of brass disks of the slightly smaller diameter and is using what he has available to him (hey it's a stretch, but I try to give folks the benefit of the doubt).
When a part is made to fit within a spectrum of tolerance and the actual part has a tolerance at the low end of the mating parts spectrum of tolerance, one can find that hard to tolerate. Above all, we must (wait for it...) exercise tolerance.
Some of the "OLD" repo shields were made out of tin and the wrong size, talk about getting it wrong, they did on two things.
I have run my car with the felt and brass shield, do not recall is leaking any more oil then with the modern seal nor did it short out. I really thing 90 percent of the don't use is bunk. You would really have to have a messed up shield to have it short the contacts on the timer out. Many may not understand that the rotor is grounded so the shield rubbing on it is no problem. I also think the brass acts as a bearing surface for the timer to ride on.
Now if the area where the seal rides on the cam was nice and smooth the modern seal might make more sense.
If a good repo shield was made out of brass I would use it and the felt seal on my car.
On my (1926) engines the modern seal rides on the smooth machined surface of the cam nut. (Somewhat difficult to get the sealing lip onto the nut while tapping the seal in place, though.)
Steve. Yogi Berra used the same logic when he said "It ain't over till it's over", which also makes alot of sense in a minimum amount of words. Jim Patrick
I went out and looked at the two cam nuts I have. The one on the engine, original; crusty, pitted not what I would call modern seal ready. Maybe closer to what a lot of guys put back in the engine (maybe not the guys here). The new one for the replacement gear, not polished, smooth but not what I would call shaft smooth.
Yes, we can edit. I do it all of the time as I misspell and also rewrite to lessen being misunderstood.
After you have written your message, you hit the "Preview/Post Message" icon. That will display your message as written.
If you like it, you can hit the "Post this Message" icon. Should you have a desire to change something, drop down to the "Revise your Message" box where your original message resides and make the necessary changes. Hit the "Preview/Post Message" icon and have another reread.
I hope that this helps. Good Luck, Bill