Muffler connection packing

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Muffler connection packing
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Musegh Kalon on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 01:56 pm:

What is everyone using on the early internal seat manifold to exhaust connection for a packing material against the exhaust gases behind the coupling nut? Are you using an asbestos substitute roping and let it crush on tightening?
Source for this material?
Thanks
M


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 03:16 pm:

M,
I used and I believe most use nothing.
Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 03:34 pm:

There is no packing intended for that area, just a metal to metal seal.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 04:13 pm:

From Bruce McCalley's Encyclopedia: "Exhaust pipe fits into the (early manifold's) threaded end, using a packing gland and the usual nut."

Just what that "packing gland" was I have no idea, but I believe that Bruce in an earlier publication stated that the pipe was "sealed" with asbestos.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 04:29 pm:

R.V.

You're probably correct about the asbestos in the "early" manifolds and it's the "early" style that "M" asked about. My comment above was for the later style that used the exhaust pipe with the flared end.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andy Loso St Joseph, MN on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 05:23 pm:

I use 1/8th asbestos rope seal like they use on fireplace doors. An old fart told me they don't call it a packing nut for nothing. He had been doing that for years and I have been doing this for the last 6 years or so. It seems to quiet it down and the leaks are a lot less.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Val Soupios on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 05:28 pm:

On my '10 I found a copper/asbestos ring that fit into the manifold nut and over the exhaust pipe. Since it spreads when it compresses it is a pretty good seal. Unfortunately, I don't recall the inside and outside dimensions but I brought a manifold nut with me to Hershey and went through a ton of gaskets until I found one that worked.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Musegh Kalon on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 09:08 pm:

Thanks for all the replies!
I found some high temp rope that they use in fireplaces, etc. Supposed to withstand 1800+ deg.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By brass car guy on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 11:10 pm:

On my 1912 touring with the slip joint pipe, I needed to solve the exhaust leak.

I found some 1/4" graphite water pump packing. It was to big to fit between the pipe and inside of the nut. So I squeezed the packing in my large vise to make it thinner. I was able to get 2 complete rounds inside the nut, It was too thick to get the nut started so I used a punch and hammer to crush the packing deeper inside the nut.

I was able to get the nut started and snugged the pipe up inside the manifold. So far all's well and the exhaust is quiet.

brasscarguy


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 07:53 am:

No packing gasket material is intended to be used between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. There is a flared female flange pressed into the end of the exhaust pipe where it mates with the matching male portion of the exhaust manifold which is precisely machined to fit into the flared end of the exhaust pipe.

Prior to assembly of the muffler to the exhaust pipe, the large manifold packing nut slides over the un-flared end of the exhaust pipe and as it it threaded onto the exhaust manifold and tightened, the female flared flange is pulled tightly against the angled male portion of the manifold. When the packing nut is tightened the seal should be complete. There is a lot of pressure and heat at the joint which is why no packing material is used or needed, for it will only keep the packing nut from doing its' job of pulling the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold tightly together and may even distort the flared end of the exhaust pipe making it impossible for the two ends to mate properly. I would think that, eventually, any packing material at this point would be blown out.

One thing that is common to exhaust manifolds is damaged or worn threads which might keep the packing nut from tightening properly, but no amount of packing will remedy this. Only a new manifold, or possibly a clamp against the packing nut which might or might not work. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 08:30 am:

I thought I could find a cross section of the joint on the later cars (mine is a 1926), but I couldn't so I drew one. If the earlier models had packing, I was not aware of it and it would be interesting to me to see how it was applied. It seems that if it was used, it would be a manufactured gland made to fit properly and not just rope

I checked Musegh's profile and found where his car is a 1919, so am not sure whether his falls into the earlier or later category, but if his joint could be converted so as not to require packing, it might be advantageous to do so, as mine has never leaked in the 44 years I have owned it. Jim Patrick



Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 08:41 am:

Jim, what you write is correct for late 1913-1927 exhaust manifolds. The earlier were of a different design where the exhaust pipe fit into the end of the manifold with the nut clamping the packing material to seal much like how the fuel pipe is connected to the carb and the sediment bulb.

From the encyclopedia: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/I-O.htm#man

"1909-1911
Exhaust pipe fitted into the exhaust manifold and had asbestos packing, secured with usual nut.

1911-1913
Exhaust manifold was the same as 1910 type.

1913-1914
In January 1913 another letter specified the exhaust manifold was made for the flanged exhaust pipe. This new design exhaust manifold remained standard until late 1926."


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 08:57 am:

Thank you Roger. That really helps and seems to affirm that Musegh's T will require the later version without packing as shown in my drawing (if his is a '19 as his profile indicates). Thanks again. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 11:29 am:

The early style exhaust manifolds were used into mid '13 I believe. I prefer the late one on my car, and you really can't tell the difference once everything is tightened up.


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