I am having a problem getting my 1913 to crank start. Have checked timing, plugs, spark, valves, gaskets and intake manifold. Right now it has a Holly S, but have had same problem with 4 Ball, both recently rebuilt by Russ Potter, and NH that works on another T. Coils by Ron. I have tried various combinations of mixture and choking. When i check the plugs they are always DRY as a bone, even after prolonged choking and cranking. If I get someone to push me 10-15 feet to get it rolling it starts right up and runs like a clock. It seems I am not getting gas to the cylinders--any bright ideas? Had the problem at Hershey last year-was the last car to leave the field-a nice fellow stopped by to help and got it going--but I didn't get a chance to ask him what he did! I really regret that.
Charles---check that you have FULL CHOKE, on tne carb. Also check for intake manifold leak(s).GOOD LUCK---Paul
Remove the heat stove and with help from a friend cranking hold your hand over the carb inlet.You should get a strong suction.Are opening the mixture? Bud.
Take the spark plugs out and shoot just a little bit of gas in there. Replace plugs and see if that fires it over when cranked. At least you might know if it will run or not.
I'd also make sure that your sediment bulb is clean and you are getting good, solid gas flow to carb. Like they mentioned check carb-to-manifold seal and manifold-to-engine seal and that each carb is choking correctly (although with Russ Potter rebuilding them I HIGHLY doubt that's the problem, unless you just aren't pulling the wire far enough).
You did not mention how you setting the initial timing and how you are setting the spark lever for magneto starting.
Can you elaborate on this?
Ron the Coilman
When you cold start the car you MUST pull it through four times with full choke before you turn on the ignition.
I must ask, are you using battery when cranking or if on the magneto are you not spinning it fast enough?
As stated above by Paul, Ken, and Keven; get the engine started by using their techniques. get a push start if you must. Then when you get it running check all intake joints for air leaks. Hey don't forget it may just be a broken intake gasket. An engine will run with a small intake air leak but it is hard to start.
When you get the engine started and running, get a can of starter fluid or some such liquid that will burn. Spray that liquid at all of the following places: Manifold to block, carburetor to manifold, throttle shaft on carburetor.
If the engine changes speed when you spray a joint, that is where the leak is.
You straighten up the surfaces by either filing with a single cut mill file or sanding the surface. Remember as II said before, an engine will run with a small air leak but it will be hard to start.
You can really mess up a joint with the rocking motion of a file and make the leak worse. I like 100 grit Aluminum Oxide sand paper and big a block that will touch both intake ports. Wrap the paper around the block and take simple strokes touching both ports all the time.
If it is the throttle shaft, you may need to bush the carburetor body and replace the worn shaft.
Please let us know if any of our suggestions have helped.
I am using a 12 volt 7 amp sealed lead acid battery. The type used for gate openers. I recharge it frequently.
I have checked the timing with an LED timing indicator as well as the small metal timing gauge that sets the correct distance.
I am not trying to start on magneto.
If there was a leak involving the intake manifold, would one hear any sound?
When you handcrank w choke pulled out after four spins there should be gas dripping out of the air intake on carb. If not you have no gas going up the manifold
When mine drip like that they will always start and sometimes on compression by just turning on the key after priming
Good luck Andy.
Long ago there were two farms and both had crank start tractors.Babcocks towed and towed theirs but could not start it.We took our tractor and belted it up and ran it full throttle and theirs would not run! Gas running out of the carb and good fire from the mag-no run! Removed air cleaner hose and put hand over carb. No Suction!! Old hot manifold had rusted and broke on the back side out of sight.Got Suction????????????? Bud.
Check the choke as suggested BUT: It won't hand crank start and pushing it gets it going? It sounds like the speed/continuous cranking when pushing over comes your possibly low compression. You've gone through 3 carbs with no result and a few other items listed in your post so take a compression test. Low (cold starting) compression may be your problem especially if you can push start it. It actually makes no sense unless you're not pulling fuel because of the slowness of hand cranking & low compression.
Do you hear or see any evidence of gas being sucked up as you crank? Is the gas level high or low in the tank? Does your carb have one of those modern float valves? Maybe its stuck. The one on my 13 four ball would start sticking when the gas level got too low and would have the same symptoms.