I found that my timer housing is getting rubbed and worn by my fan belt- the belt is slightly scooting to the rear of the pulley.
My engine is a 1916 and just wanted to ask if anyone has solved this issue? I am running a TW timer which has a painted case.
if your fan is original, the pulley should have a slight crown, though many are worn flat. Belts will try to "climb" a crowned pulley and ride on the largest diameter. I would start by trying to induce a slight tilt on the bracket that holds the fan and see if you can induce the belt to "climb" away from the timer.
Now you see why so many aftermarket crank pulleys have lips and why accessory pulley guide brackets sold as accessories.
So, you are suggesting to expand, even slightly, the stock pulley? My pulley and fan are all stock. My '16 engine can't accept the belt guide (according to the descrip on guide) so maybe, if I can't stop the riding, I'll look into the aluminum edged pulleys?
Oops, I read it incorrectly...change the angle on the fan perhaps?
I believe the fan bracket is adjustable to the right or left. If so, you can loosen it and push the fan bracket and pulley to the left (towards the driver's side) away from the timer until the belt no longer makes contact with it. Jim Patrick
Short of doing a shade tree dressing job, filing the edges of your fan pulley with a file to shape more of a crown (if the crown is flat), You could install a replacement crank pulley with outside ridges to hold the belt centered, or the accessory fan belt guide that Lang's sells or an original APCO guide if you find one. Of course if originality is a prime concern, step one or finding a better fan pulley, may be your best option.
According to Lang's catalog, they list the years for their belt guide as 09-27. I once had a 16 touring that had one of the APCO guides on it.
Your crank pulley's crown is gone.
Pull it off and if the center hole is shot, fill with brass weld, an bore for a 1/2 thousandths over fit.
Then put it on an expanding mandrel, and cut a 2 degree taper on the O.D..
We have done hundreds of them, of all kinds.
Make sure the taper is centered from each side.
Then check the other 1 or 2 pulleys for the same thing, and or alignment.
In addition to Herm's suggestions, confirm that your fan belt is not too long. A long fan belt makes it necessary to swing the fan arm too far to the right in order to have the proper tension. This moves the belt closer to the timer.
Before buying new parts, check and try to fit/repair what is there.
Sometimes the fan bracket arm is bent, and you can reshape that easy by bending. Other times the bushings are bad in the fan pulley.
The main thing is alignment to both pulleys so the belt will track. Where you have rubbing, if bending the arm won't help, you can try shimming with a thick washer to get the pulley in line with the crank pulley and away from the timer case.
A new belt will help too if the old one is worn and slips. For sure, too long a belt, where the fan bracket is too vertical, will pull the belt toward the timer case and cause rubbing on the case. Check that the fan is offset, and the belt is correct length.
Correct tension is about 5 lbs., then the belt should slip.
Here's some pictures of the pulley Build.
If the front of the crank is wore, we grind the pulley end while it is in the crank grinder so everything is centered with the main center line.
That is also when we true up the back side of the flywheel flange.
One thing, NEVER use the out side of the pulley for putting on, or taking it off, You Will Bend the out side out of Alignment.
Beautiful work! I'll have to check mine for being our of alignment. I also snagged an APCO fan belt guide for a whopping $15 on Ebay so one way or another- I'll solve the issue.
I found that the best way to solve a belt rubbing issue is to exercise!
I have two '13s with the same problem. All I had to do is put a washer between the fan arm and the front cover, which corrected the problem without doing anything else.
Larry and Dennis,
Both are great issues so I combined them- I simply washed behind my belt and hopefully that fixes my personal problems too!
Beautiful work Herm. I am not that good at bronze welding so I come at the problem from a different angle. I use hollow steel bar which is a little bigger in outside diameter than the pulley centre to make a new centre for the pulley. The pulley is chucked in the lathe and bored to a close fit to the outside diameter of the bar stock. This leaves a groove in the back of the pulley where the centre was pressed.
Then the piece of hollow bar is MIG welded into the pulley from the back. I get a good weld to fill the groove, and then the pulley is chucked again and the weld faced off and the new centre bored to suit the shaft it is to go on.
Because the new centre is slightly thicker than original, it does not flog out as readily as the thinner originals.
Just another way to skin a cat.
Allan from down under.