On my prior posts I showed the rear wheel failure due to carriage bolts being sheared worn off. I have ordered jacks and parts to rebuild the rear axle, hopefully it just needs new thrust bearing plates and well cleaned and lubricated. I need to put the wheel back on the rear to move the car out of the drive way. My question is this modern rear bearing. It appears that while loose, it needs pressed onto the rear axle then bolted to the brake drum as part of the wheel assembly. Is this safe ? could this have contributed to the carriage bolts hitting the rear axle plate nut and wearing off ? What is the purpose of adding this bearing ? You can see all the metal shavings in the rear assembly I have not cleaned off yet. sorry I do not know why pictures appear upside down
That is a floating hub assembly, or as some call it, a safety hub. They're a good thing. They replace the old Hyatt bearing. That's the good news. Bad news is, it's been kind of ruined by running very loose for a long time. The 6 holes are worn way bigger than they're supposed to be. You could have new holes drilled in the spaces between the existing holes and it will probably be o.k.
Is there anyone who can help you with this? By your questions I can see that you're new to Model T's. I'm thinking some experienced help would be of great benefit to you. No offense intended.
Here's the floating bearing kit:
I've read of these plenty of times, but I think this is the first one I've seen. I gather the bearing bolts onto the inside of the wheel/drum and rides on the thick sleeve that's pressed into the housing tube. Is that correct?
There should be bolts holding the stub shaft, or carrier shaft in the axle housing, you will have to take that out, and that part will press in to the sealed bearing if it is not shot.
The sealed bearing should never come off the carrier shaft unless you needed to replace the bearing.
Thanks I see that Langs has a required installation kit for these floating safety hubs. I may need to buy a kit after i have the new holes drilled by a machinist
Question, does anyone have the installation instructions?
David, looking at the last picture of yours, it looks like the bolt holes were counter sunk to take flat head bolts that would not touch the backing plate.
Dan McEachern has the best hubs!!
They are made right!
I don't believe those are countersinks. I think that's where the nuts wore into the flange from many miles of running loose. If you saw David's other posting on the problems he's having you'd see how wore away everything is.
David, From the picture I am not sure but that the axle might be toast as we'll. the end of the shaft does not look strait and the threads look buggered up. The taper does not look clean, maybe rusted, and what about the key way if this was run loose as we'll. I think you have more problems than just a ruined floating hub. JMHO
David: Just a word about "floating hubs". Once they have been installed in an axle housing, you can not go back to the Ford type bearing. You have to use "floating hubs" because the axle housing is cut off for them to fit. I think I have a set like that(wood wheel type)I removed to install the wire wheel type. If you are interested in them PM me. Dan
Wow the great folks at Langs were quick to respond to my email to them about buying installation instructions. These are not Lang's bearings. So the first thing I need to do is to find out how they should be installed, see if they can be repaired, and pull apart the other wheel to see how it is assembled and if it too is ready to fail Ant further advice and education appreciated Thanks Lang's
I think the parts you have were made by Model T Ranch. Here's a link:
Oh, Ok Jerry, Nope, I didn't see any other posting.
Well I am learnig a google search now that you all put me on the right trail led me to a Snyder's instruction sheet on how to install their bearing sets note the important caption below
"#1039 Wood Wheel installation Tips
Use Locktight on nuts. Tack weld key as shown in picture. Grind angle on key so grease seal will not be
damaged. Install safety bolts. It is very important that these be installed because there is no flange on the
Model T hub for bearing assembly to ride on. Otherwise, the carriage bolts and nuts will work loose"
This seems to be the exact failure I experienced. Perhaps I do not need to rebuild the rear axle ?
Royce is on the money, the parts are from Model T Ranch. The bolt holes are countersunk, I think this is done to help those fitting Rocky Mountain Brakes to have enough thread on the nuts yet avoid the thickness of them interfering with the components such as the spring perch nut and the brake cam which run extremely close to the nuts.
The problem with any brand of floating hub is that the axles must be perfectly straight and the housings must be straight. Otherwise the axles and the hubs are fighting each other, and something fails. In this case it was the bolts, I've seen a bearing go to pieces in one of these units that ended up with a broken axle as the first sign of trouble.
If you are going to use floating hubs the axles need to be carefully checked for straightness. You can mock up the rear end with a straight piece of bar stock to make sure the floating hubs do not place everything in a bind when assembled. Then you will find that some work with a torch is necessary to bend the housings to get proper alignment.
Original Ford roller bearings are tolerant of a lot of abuse. They work fine even with axle housings that are not quite in alignment. This is yet another example of how the original Ford parts are superior in design to an expensive aftermarket "improvement".
John Stoltz (Model T Ranch) is the maker of the new type floating hub. His design also calls for an additional 6 screws that go between the carriage bolts. These are necessary for good operation. Also be sure your axles don't have ridges in them that prevent the inner bearing from sliding over the axle. This can be an issue with the Type 3 floating hubs.
I'm not as committed a purist as some. I accept a few modifications. But in this case I think I'd use some uncut axle housings and go stock.