Hi I need some information because I looked all over and cant find a place to buy these screws/bolts. I have a late 22 touring model t with slanted windshield and I wanted to attach my cowls lights but I saw I am missing a screw on both sides.....i see theres a nut on the other ones. I went on Langs, and synders and tried every hardware store and cant find the same screws so I can attach these cowl lights, Can anyone please let me know where I can locate them? Thanks, Tony-Staten Island
I believe that is because the cowl lights have a stud in the back of them, and don't need a screw!
There should be a bolt extending out the the back of each side light,and a nut attached it to the side light bracket, I used an acorn nut. See picture. If there are pieces missing you will need to find then.
Anthony, Show some pictures if you can. I know that the later 20's T's with electric equipment did not come with kerosene side lights. I do not know for sure but a different windshield may have been supplied for the T's which where not equipped with a starter or generator. You may want to call and talk to an expert at Lang's or Snyder's paying for the call may be less expensive than chasing all over.
One more thing do you have the side light brackets
on the body for mounting, They are add ons to the windshield frame to mount the side lights.
I have a late 22 touring I just looked at without taking it apart the lamp has a threaded stud coming through the lamp its self with a castle nut and a cotter pin attaching it to the windshield mount. An extra one that is loose is the same way.
Should not be much of a problem but the lamp will need to be taken apart to get to the back of it for working out a fix.
Talking with Dave at Chaffins on another mater I asked him about this post. If its a missing stud issue he has the parts to fix it. You might want to call him.
Anthony: Have you received an answer to your question? You've received some excellent responses to a poorly worded question. Do you have the cowl lamp brackets? I have several dozen later cowl lamps and have never seen the rear bolt/stud missing. Is there a hole in the rear of your lamp body (not the font or chimney)?
I am sorry for getting back late to this question. I am sorry for the poor worded question. I am new and I do appreciate all the help from the forum. I made a honest mistake, its not the cowl lamps, yes they do have a stud and I bought 5/8 nuts for them. What I need is the front screws that hold the windshield to the body as you sit in the car. I have a late 1922 touring.
There are two styles of windshield to body mounting brackets. The 19 to 22 are different than the 23 to 25. The 19 to 22 can ether be with or without side lamp mounts depending if it is a Starter or nonstater car. But they are healed to the body with carriage bolts.
Here are pictures.
1917-22 with side light bracket.
1917-22 without side light bracket.
1923-25 side light bracket.
1/4" x 20 thread carriage bolts. Grind or file off any head markings from new bolts to replicate the original. 1 1/2" length I think. Hex nut and lock washer inside, usually thru the cardboard kick panel to help secure that panel.
Tony, your car looks like a 1923 to me. The model year began with August, so if your serial number shows a date after July 31, 1922, it's a 1923 Model T no matter what the state says.
The windshield stanchions are held on by 5/16-18 carriage bolts, like this:
But these bolts in the picture are not quite right because they have the modern markings on them. Any that you buy will probably have those too, so you'll want to grind them off, smooth the surface, and paint them. You can probably get them at Reiman's, Garber's, or Home Depot. I'm not sure whether the length you need is 2" or shorter, so you want to inspect and measure to see what length you want.
Mis-read your question.
Those screws are large oval head nickel plate screws with hex nuts behind. 1/4" x 20 1" long.
You can get set from Lang's
or you can find single slot oval head stainless steel screws at marine stores that will work and look like nickel plate if you buff them.
Dan types faster than I do.
Dan, are you sure about the size? My'23 has 5/16-18. I can't swear that's right, but it's what's there, and it seems to fit.
Oh, you mean these.
Apparently this is another instance of wrong fasteners I need to change on this car. I'm glad Tony asked.
You are correct on the carriage bolts, 5/16" dia to hold the windshield stanchion on the outside.
I missed that, as 1/4" carriage bolts would be too small. Thanks
I believe the castle nut for those sidelights is the same one they use for the radiator stud, on top.
I almost forgot the windshield post carriage bolts were originally raven finished, and the head diameter is smaller than what is available today, so you will have to not only remove the markings, but you will have to turn the head diameter smaller to match the original size.
Or not, depending upon how picky the owner is.
But you're right about the castle nuts.
Newbie question - Dan, this picture from your post above shows the windshield post bolts going through the kick panel trim and the nuts and washers exposed, is that correct, or should the kick panel trim hide the nuts and washers?
Larry, how much smaller? What size should the heads be?
The kick panel should hide the nuts.
I did it this way as the kick panel was already tacked in place, and later on my T I added (incorrect, as mine is electric start) a set of cowl oil lamps for 'looks'.
Say it isn't so, Dan!!!
You're one of those people who add cowl lamps to an electric T so it'll "look more like a Model T"?
I measured the head diameter on those, and it looks like 21/32" I've always been obsessed with nuts and bolts for T's, and I've found lots of NOS ones over the years, but those are some I've never been able to find. I took mine and polished them up real good, and put a raven finish on them.